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Old 07-05-2017, 02:26 PM   #41
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The install manual states "Allow a gap of 15-20 mm between the back wall
of the recess and the refrigeration unit.", or .6-.8". I'm taking it there is little or no space with, or without, the baking sheet in place?.
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:21 PM   #42
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I think that's right from what I've read, because the RMD is just slightly deeper. Long term I think the fix with the extra stock in the back (which moves the fridge slightly forward) would be best, but of course the front will protrude a bit more.
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:09 PM   #43
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I used red 5200 because it was fairly quick setting and on my work bench.

Before the heat shield about 18" down the outside wall next to the flue it was 118-120F. After the heat shield and after 4 hours of constant running of the burner the temp. was below 108F. Today after the frig. has reached operating temp. the outside wall of the trailer was just slightly over 100F. The body curve just at the base of the vent is bare fiberglass inside and is a little hotter than the lower side of the trailer today.

Once you pull the vent cap off with a flashlight I could see the scorched wall through the screen. I was also able to get temperature readings through the screen. The top of the flue T was about 250F. The wood wall at the scorch mark was 180F.

I spent serval hours trying to figure out a heat shield with an air gap. I was sitting in my chair cooling off and looked down by the trailer and there was a cookie pan (drip pan) on the shop floor I use when cleaning up brakes. Then I thought the double bottom cookie sheets would be great since it had it's own air gap. I measured the vent opening and went into the wife's kitchen and found a double bottom pan that fit.

My mod. seems to work for me. I was really concerned when I could hardly hold my hand on the side of the trailer. Then finding the burn marks on the wood I felt I needed to do something quickly to fix the problem. At a later date I may pull the frig. and redo the complete side wall.

My guess is I have about 1/4" clearance at the top. The side wall bows out my guess is at the burner I may have about 1/2" clearance.

Like Donna says YMMV.
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:23 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elongest View Post
I used red 5200 because it was fairly quick setting and on my work bench.

Before the heat shield about 18" down the outside wall next to the flue it was 118-120F. After the heat shield and after 4 hours of constant running of the burner the temp. was below 108F. Today after the frig. has reached operating temp. the outside wall of the trailer was just slightly over 100F. The body curve just at the base of the vent is bare fiberglass inside and is a little hotter than the lower side of the trailer today.

Once you pull the vent cap off with a flashlight I could see the scorched wall through the screen. I was also able to get temperature readings through the screen. The top of the flue T was about 250F. The wood wall at the scorch mark was 180F.

I spent serval hours trying to figure out a heat shield with an air gap. I was sitting in my chair cooling off and looked down by the trailer and there was a cookie pan (drip pan) on the shop floor I use when cleaning up brakes. Then I thought the double bottom cookie sheets would be great since it had it's own air gap. I measured the vent opening and went into the wife's kitchen and found a double bottom pan that fit.

My mod. seems to work for me. I was really concerned when I could hardly hold my hand on the side of the trailer. Then finding the burn marks on the wood I felt I needed to do something quickly to fix the problem. At a later date I may pull the frig. and redo the complete side wall.

My guess is I have about 1/4" clearance at the top. The side wall bows out my guess is at the burner I may have about 1/2" clearance.

Like Donna says YMMV.
Eddie
This is a scarey situation . I fear for all those not on the forum and have no idea . Even though we never got a replacement refrigerator I think I will make sure everything looks good back there with the inspection camera I have . I believe we have good clearance but it won't hurt to check . Pat
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:26 PM   #45
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This is a scarey situation . I fear for all those not on the forum and have no idea . Even though we never got a replacement refrigerator I think I will make sure everything looks good back there with the inspection camera I have . I believe we have good clearance but it won't hurt to check . Pat
I didn't get a replacement either because I like the single door, wire racks and mine works just fine. But boy... I think I'm more glad than ever.
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:33 PM   #46
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I didn't get a replacement either because I like the single door, wire racks and mine works just fine. But boy... I think I'm more glad than ever.
That's the truth ! Pat
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Old 07-05-2017, 05:12 PM   #47
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I measured the vent opening and went into the wife's kitchen and found a double bottom pan that fit.

Eddie,
This is an innovative solution!
In my case, I'm not sure how receptive my wife would be to my my raiding her kitchen like that. I suspect it would set me back more than the cost of a cookie sheet. Thank goodness I don't have this issue.
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Old 07-05-2017, 05:22 PM   #48
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I know mine is safe but had been reading this out of curiosity. The other day someone was looking for something they could use to make the area fire resistant. I used this when I noticed my kiln was heating the wall.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-Bl...FcZahgodxNUG_g
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Old 07-05-2017, 05:48 PM   #49
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Ahh, the dreaded incompetent RV tech we are still subject too for warranty work, even buying an Escape. What a serious fire hazard and agree "for all those not on the forum and have no idea"
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:19 PM   #50
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It would be very interesting to see if all the folks who had the RMD warranty replacement fridge are finding the same clearance issues. I suspect that if the installers didn't take the slight differences in fridge depth into account, the answer is yes.
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:40 PM   #51
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Ahh, the dreaded incompetent RV tech we are still subject too for warranty work, even buying an Escape. What a serious fire hazard and agree "for all those not on the forum and have no idea"
I gave Escape Industries a heads up, so they can contact owners if they decide it's called for. I imagine that few, if any shops made the proper baffle adjustments, that back wall is a pain to remove. Scott

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Old 07-05-2017, 06:50 PM   #52
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Thanks for the write-up Scott. I'll give it a whirl when we get back in a couple weeks. It'll take that long to psych myself up for removing the fridge again.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:31 PM   #53
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A couple years ago in hopes of improving performance I pulled my fridge out to do changes: add the baffles, extra insulation, changed thermostat governing the Texas fans, and then because I never heard them come on decided to also add a manual switch for the fans. Ran wire that went from a new switch over the door to the main power feed in back. When I pushed the fridge into its place I took care to tape that wire to the wood and back outside wall so it cleared the hot chimney stack.

What I didn't realize was duct tape wasn't enough to keep that wire away from that hot pipe system. So, just this spring, when I was fixing the orifice problem I quickly noticed that wire hanging too close to the stack. Not taped where it was supposed to be. Much of the insulation had already melted. A very close call.
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:56 PM   #54
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Not taped where it was supposed to be. Much of the insulation had already melted. A very close call.
Close call indeed, Myron. Proof that even when you pretty much know what you're doing, things can go wrong.
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:14 PM   #55
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Well we didn't originally check ours since we had the work done at ETI. But we are about to leave for a big trip including a fair amount of boondocking and Donna D gave us a heads up (thanks Donna!). Anyway, Dave climbed up there last night and took a look. There is at least an inch of clearance (per Dometic requirements) but also a scorched area! We thought about gluing a silicone pad there but in the end Dave went with the insulated cookie sheet, no time to pull the frig.
"Heat shields up Mr. Sulu"
"Shields up, admiral."
"May fortune favor the foolish," Jim said softly.

Kathie (& Dave whose up on a ladder gluing in the cookie sheet).

PS We also wondered about the 5200 adhesive since I believe it's heat resistant to about 190F. Hope that's ok (since it's behind the cookie sheet).
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:59 PM   #56
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Wonder if plumbers heat shield/mat would work.

9 in. x 12 in. Hands-Free Heat Shield-314002 - The Home Depot
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Old 07-06-2017, 04:00 PM   #57
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Dave & Kathie,
a scorched area! Me and others might not be familiar with your Refridge history. Has it been replaced, or serviced or factory original never touched?
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Old 07-06-2017, 08:23 PM   #58
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So even those who had their fridge swap at ETI have been scorched. That brings up the question of what is the norm(if any)for back walls of fridge compartments? Plywood, metal, metal clad plywood?

Home inspection reports will call out issues with flues coming into contact with wood in attics. The problem is that over time the kindling point gets lowered thus creating a flammable situation.

Going to have to look down my vent and see if there is another scorch after ETI fixed my first one.
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:02 PM   #59
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Dave & Kathie,
a scorched area! Me and others might not be familiar with your Refridge history. Has it been replaced, or serviced or factory original never touched?
We had the one door RML switched out to the 2 door RMD when Reace arranged with Dometic for a recall, which I believe is what the other folks here are talking about.

PS Thanks to Eddie for the cookie sheet fix.

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Old 07-06-2017, 09:04 PM   #60
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So even those who had their fridge swap at ETI have been scorched. That brings up the question of what is the norm(if any)for back walls of fridge compartments? Plywood, metal, metal clad plywood?

Home inspection reports will call out issues with flues coming into contact with wood in attics. The problem is that over time the kindling point gets lowered thus creating a flammable situation.

Going to have to look down my vent and see if there is another scorch after ETI fixed my first one.
Yep, we were totally surprised! And, there was plenty of clearance behind the baffle - probably an inch to an inch and a half.
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