|
|
07-02-2017, 02:22 AM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alaska, Washington
Trailer: 2014 5.0 TA
Posts: 451
|
RMD Exhaust Flue
When I pulled out the RMD 8555 so I could run some wiring and install extra insulation, I noticed a scorched area on the back wall of the baffle across from the exhaust duct. Is this normal? I'm thinking I should screw a sheet of galvanized steel (like they use in duct work) on the back wall to help protect the wall and dissipate the heat from the exhaust flue.
I seem to recall an earlier thread where someone did something similar, searched and couldn't find it. Thanks, Scott
Scott and Lori
__________________
Scott and Lori
Aurora Borealis
2014 5.0 TA
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 02:50 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
|
Could it be soot from the chimney? I didn't notice any when I had mine out a month or so ago, but then I wasn't specifically looking for it.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 03:06 AM
|
#3
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
There should not be any scorching on the back wall anywhere. That would indicate an installation issue, or less likely, an issue with the flue.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 08:06 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
|
I used a piece of sheet aluminum , mainly because I had some and because it doesn't rust
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 08:10 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,878
|
In my recollection of RM or RMD posts there has not been mention of such scorching. The only similar experience has been some scorching on the fiber furnace filters used to reduce air flow through the lower refrigerator vent. I believe the solution in that area was to use the metal range filters.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 09:20 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,207
|
My baffle was found to be scorched on my RMD 8555 that had replaced the original RML. Reace found it when I had him pull it a year later(5/16) as I didn't like how it had been trimmed out in front. I posted a picture. Can't seem to find it easily either.
The cause was due to improper installation of baffle as the RMD is a little deeper than RML.
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 09:37 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Trailer: 2012 Escape-19
Posts: 383
|
Scotts post confirms what I suspected. I had a bad regulator under 8"WC and replaced it with a MEGR-253H high volume control factory set at 11" WC. While checking things out with the trailer inside a barn with ambient temp at 90F I noticed the outside skin of the trailer about 1 ft. below the roof vent was rather hot. I checked it with my digital thermometer and the reading was 118F. After talking to the regulator mfg. I have decided to order a MEGR-253 standard flow regulator because of pressure increases on the 253H due to no flow/ low flow load.
I am thinking of going in from the roof vent and installing a chimney or some type of baffle. If my frig. was removed I would definitely install a heat shield on the outer wall.
Eddie
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 10:29 AM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alaska, Washington
Trailer: 2014 5.0 TA
Posts: 451
|
The inch of extra depth on the replacement fridge makes the most sense to me. It's definitely scorched, not soot. The wood is intact with no cracking, splitting, just discolored from the heat. A tennis ball sized area just above the exhaust flue. I will take a picture as soon as I can get some coffee down and the dog takes me for a walk. Scott
Scott and Lori
__________________
Scott and Lori
Aurora Borealis
2014 5.0 TA
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 11:38 AM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,207
|
Here's a photo:
From Reace: "When they installed the new fridge, the back panel on the wall should have been adjusted to accommodate the larger fridge. As you can see in the photo, the fridge was touching the rear wall (baffle). There is supposed to be ½”-3/4” gap between the fridge and back wall."
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 11:42 AM
|
#10
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
That's a serious fire hazard.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 11:48 AM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,207
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
That's a serious fire hazard.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
|
Yeah, I was shocked. The Dometic Authorized Service Center near me was too and refunded me. They said they called up the tech did not work there anymore to impress upon him the fact we could have had a fire.
The "re & re" of the RML to RMD is obviously slightly more complicated than it seemed at first. Problem is you can't tell without pulling the fridge.
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 12:00 PM
|
#12
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Yeah, I was shocked. The Dometic Authorized Service Center near me was too and refunded me. They said they called up the tech did not work there anymore to impress upon him the fact we could have had a fire.
The "re & re" of the RML to RMD is obviously slightly more complicated than it seemed at first. Problem is you can't tell without pulling the fridge.
|
Very good point. This is important for anyone who had their RML replaced with the RMD during the whole replacement fridge saga. I would certainly check if I had the replacement, despite the hassle of pulling the fridge. Peace of mind.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 01:04 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alaska, Washington
Trailer: 2014 5.0 TA
Posts: 451
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Here's a photo:
From Reace: "When they installed the new fridge, the back panel on the wall should have been adjusted to accommodate the larger fridge. As you can see in the photo, the fridge was touching the rear wall (baffle). There is supposed to be ½”-3/4” gap between the fridge and back wall."
|
Ross, thank you!, that is was what I was looking for. It looks like I can move the bottom of the baffle out an inch but looking at the top of the baffle I can't see how I can get more space because of curve of the roof. I'll email Escape and see what they recommend. Our Dometic service center operates a huge rental fleet during tourist season so getting an appointment to have the baffle fixed could be a problem. Thank you, Scott. Here is a picture of the area,(sideways of course):
__________________
Scott and Lori
Aurora Borealis
2014 5.0 TA
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 02:24 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,878
|
I have also done the switch from the RML to the RMD. I do not see any method of checking for scorch marks short of pulling the refrigerator. Is this correct?
I measure about a 1/4 inch gap between the aluminum flue and the plywood exhaust box where the enters the box. I cannot determine if the flue to plywood gap is different further up the box.
Using an infrared thermometer I get a temperature of approximately 290 degrees at the base of the flue, Just moving up the flue 2 inches and the temp drops to 98. At the top exit I obtain a similar temp. Ambient temp is 75 and the refrigerator is operating on gas.
Where the flue passes next to the plywood I read that same 98.
Curious to see how this thread progresses.
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 05:01 PM
|
#15
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
I have also done the switch from the RML to the RMD. I do not see any method of checking for scorch marks short of pulling the refrigerator. Is this correct?
|
Right. There's no way to check it unless the fridge is pulled. Well, maybe with one of those scope cameras with a long enough arm, but not too many folks have those lying around.
Your temperature measurements are a good start, but the only way to be sure the baffle was modified along with the installation would be to look at it.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 05:17 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
|
Seems like the fun never ends with these fridges.
Any idea of the metal sheet idea is sufficient? Does anyone know what the real mod the the baffle is?
Suppose I could just use it on battery and 120vac for now.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 05:22 PM
|
#17
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
Seems like the fun never ends with these fridges.
Any idea of the metal sheet idea is sufficient? Does anyone know what the real mod the the baffle is?
Suppose I could just use it on battery and 120vac for now.
|
I guess if you're following what the manufacturer says, as well as what Reace says, there needs to be a gap there - whether the baffle material is wood or metal. I'd feel better with metal in such a tight installation with a heat source so close, but provided there's enough of a gap, the plywood should be fine.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 08:34 PM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alaska, Washington
Trailer: 2014 5.0 TA
Posts: 451
|
Took the back of the baffle off, (ended up ripping it off due to it being glued on and tacked with a hundred staples). It is framed with 3/4" stock, glued and nailed.
Rather than rip out the 3/4" stock frame which looks like it could be tedious, I think I'm going to glue and screw 1/4" lattice behind the stock frame followed by 2" stock.
This will recess the new rear baffle with metal heat shield a little over 3/4" further away from the flue. Scott
Scott and Lori
I really like bikes!
__________________
Scott and Lori
Aurora Borealis
2014 5.0 TA
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 08:59 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Trailer: 2012 Escape-19
Posts: 383
|
Can you see anything if you take the vent top off? And if needed cut the screen and check things out with an inspection mirror or camera. Beats pulling out the frig. just to check things out.
Eddie
|
|
|
07-02-2017, 10:12 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Alaska, Washington
Trailer: 2014 5.0 TA
Posts: 451
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by elongest
Can you see anything if you take the vent top off? And if needed cut the screen and check things out with an inspection mirror or camera. Beats pulling out the frig. just to check things out.
Eddie
|
You should be able to see if the exhaust tube is touching, or to close to the box by looking down the vent. Scott
__________________
Scott and Lori
Aurora Borealis
2014 5.0 TA
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|