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Old 07-02-2017, 02:22 AM   #1
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RMD Exhaust Flue

When I pulled out the RMD 8555 so I could run some wiring and install extra insulation, I noticed a scorched area on the back wall of the baffle across from the exhaust duct. Is this normal? I'm thinking I should screw a sheet of galvanized steel (like they use in duct work) on the back wall to help protect the wall and dissipate the heat from the exhaust flue.

I seem to recall an earlier thread where someone did something similar, searched and couldn't find it. Thanks, Scott

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Old 07-02-2017, 02:50 AM   #2
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Could it be soot from the chimney? I didn't notice any when I had mine out a month or so ago, but then I wasn't specifically looking for it.
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Old 07-02-2017, 03:06 AM   #3
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There should not be any scorching on the back wall anywhere. That would indicate an installation issue, or less likely, an issue with the flue.

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Old 07-02-2017, 08:06 AM   #4
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I used a piece of sheet aluminum , mainly because I had some and because it doesn't rust
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:10 AM   #5
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In my recollection of RM or RMD posts there has not been mention of such scorching. The only similar experience has been some scorching on the fiber furnace filters used to reduce air flow through the lower refrigerator vent. I believe the solution in that area was to use the metal range filters.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:20 AM   #6
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My baffle was found to be scorched on my RMD 8555 that had replaced the original RML. Reace found it when I had him pull it a year later(5/16) as I didn't like how it had been trimmed out in front. I posted a picture. Can't seem to find it easily either.

The cause was due to improper installation of baffle as the RMD is a little deeper than RML.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:37 AM   #7
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Scotts post confirms what I suspected. I had a bad regulator under 8"WC and replaced it with a MEGR-253H high volume control factory set at 11" WC. While checking things out with the trailer inside a barn with ambient temp at 90F I noticed the outside skin of the trailer about 1 ft. below the roof vent was rather hot. I checked it with my digital thermometer and the reading was 118F. After talking to the regulator mfg. I have decided to order a MEGR-253 standard flow regulator because of pressure increases on the 253H due to no flow/ low flow load.
I am thinking of going in from the roof vent and installing a chimney or some type of baffle. If my frig. was removed I would definitely install a heat shield on the outer wall.
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:29 AM   #8
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The inch of extra depth on the replacement fridge makes the most sense to me. It's definitely scorched, not soot. The wood is intact with no cracking, splitting, just discolored from the heat. A tennis ball sized area just above the exhaust flue. I will take a picture as soon as I can get some coffee down and the dog takes me for a walk. Scott

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Old 07-02-2017, 11:38 AM   #9
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Here's a photo:
From Reace: "When they installed the new fridge, the back panel on the wall should have been adjusted to accommodate the larger fridge. As you can see in the photo, the fridge was touching the rear wall (baffle). There is supposed to be ½”-3/4” gap between the fridge and back wall."
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Old 07-02-2017, 11:42 AM   #10
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That's a serious fire hazard.

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Old 07-02-2017, 11:48 AM   #11
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That's a serious fire hazard.

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Yeah, I was shocked. The Dometic Authorized Service Center near me was too and refunded me. They said they called up the tech did not work there anymore to impress upon him the fact we could have had a fire.

The "re & re" of the RML to RMD is obviously slightly more complicated than it seemed at first. Problem is you can't tell without pulling the fridge.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:00 PM   #12
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Yeah, I was shocked. The Dometic Authorized Service Center near me was too and refunded me. They said they called up the tech did not work there anymore to impress upon him the fact we could have had a fire.

The "re & re" of the RML to RMD is obviously slightly more complicated than it seemed at first. Problem is you can't tell without pulling the fridge.
Very good point. This is important for anyone who had their RML replaced with the RMD during the whole replacement fridge saga. I would certainly check if I had the replacement, despite the hassle of pulling the fridge. Peace of mind.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Here's a photo:
From Reace: "When they installed the new fridge, the back panel on the wall should have been adjusted to accommodate the larger fridge. As you can see in the photo, the fridge was touching the rear wall (baffle). There is supposed to be ½”-3/4” gap between the fridge and back wall."
Ross, thank you!, that is was what I was looking for. It looks like I can move the bottom of the baffle out an inch but looking at the top of the baffle I can't see how I can get more space because of curve of the roof. I'll email Escape and see what they recommend. Our Dometic service center operates a huge rental fleet during tourist season so getting an appointment to have the baffle fixed could be a problem. Thank you, Scott. Here is a picture of the area,(sideways of course):
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Old 07-02-2017, 02:24 PM   #14
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I have also done the switch from the RML to the RMD. I do not see any method of checking for scorch marks short of pulling the refrigerator. Is this correct?

I measure about a 1/4 inch gap between the aluminum flue and the plywood exhaust box where the enters the box. I cannot determine if the flue to plywood gap is different further up the box.

Using an infrared thermometer I get a temperature of approximately 290 degrees at the base of the flue, Just moving up the flue 2 inches and the temp drops to 98. At the top exit I obtain a similar temp. Ambient temp is 75 and the refrigerator is operating on gas.

Where the flue passes next to the plywood I read that same 98.

Curious to see how this thread progresses.
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Old 07-02-2017, 05:01 PM   #15
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I have also done the switch from the RML to the RMD. I do not see any method of checking for scorch marks short of pulling the refrigerator. Is this correct?
Right. There's no way to check it unless the fridge is pulled. Well, maybe with one of those scope cameras with a long enough arm, but not too many folks have those lying around.

Your temperature measurements are a good start, but the only way to be sure the baffle was modified along with the installation would be to look at it.
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Old 07-02-2017, 05:17 PM   #16
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Seems like the fun never ends with these fridges.

Any idea of the metal sheet idea is sufficient? Does anyone know what the real mod the the baffle is?

Suppose I could just use it on battery and 120vac for now.
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Old 07-02-2017, 05:22 PM   #17
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Seems like the fun never ends with these fridges.

Any idea of the metal sheet idea is sufficient? Does anyone know what the real mod the the baffle is?

Suppose I could just use it on battery and 120vac for now.
I guess if you're following what the manufacturer says, as well as what Reace says, there needs to be a gap there - whether the baffle material is wood or metal. I'd feel better with metal in such a tight installation with a heat source so close, but provided there's enough of a gap, the plywood should be fine.
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:34 PM   #18
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Took the back of the baffle off, (ended up ripping it off due to it being glued on and tacked with a hundred staples). It is framed with 3/4" stock, glued and nailed.

Rather than rip out the 3/4" stock frame which looks like it could be tedious, I think I'm going to glue and screw 1/4" lattice behind the stock frame followed by 2" stock.

This will recess the new rear baffle with metal heat shield a little over 3/4" further away from the flue. Scott

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Old 07-02-2017, 08:59 PM   #19
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Can you see anything if you take the vent top off? And if needed cut the screen and check things out with an inspection mirror or camera. Beats pulling out the frig. just to check things out.
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:12 PM   #20
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Can you see anything if you take the vent top off? And if needed cut the screen and check things out with an inspection mirror or camera. Beats pulling out the frig. just to check things out.
Eddie
You should be able to see if the exhaust tube is touching, or to close to the box by looking down the vent. Scott
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