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Old 06-28-2016, 05:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
I agree Doug, but if I had the time, I'd make THEM fix it. It's the principle of the thing.

Here's a link to the appropriate section in the installation manual:

Electrical Installation - Dometic RMD 8501 Installation Instructions Manual [Page 19]
Thanks rbryan... Very useful.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
How many amps is that fuse?
After looking at the manual posted by rbryan, I can answer my own question: 2A.
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Old 06-28-2016, 05:54 PM   #13
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Doug I just checked mine and its 5 amps.
Cheers
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Old 06-28-2016, 07:28 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Hi Doug,

We spent a bit of time fooling the AES and watching it search. You might find some info to help understand here:

6.7 Frig Tinkering ideas?

The DC 'big wires' on your frig may not have been hooked up when you took it in for the swap? Many of us run with the DC disconnected so the frig can't 'get there' unexpectedly and draw down the battery. The AES was supposed to be a great idea .. but I find it's tricking me at times and confusing the issue.

I run normally with the fuse removed from the big red supply. IF I want DC to operate I reinstall the fuse and watch the AES pickup the DC.
Klem,

Thanks for the reminder on that post. It was a good re-read.

The previous RML8555 did work on 12v -- we did use it occasionally. When set on automatic, it never selected 12v -- always propane or 120v.

Reading the RMD8555 manual that rbryan posted, it may be the same here. With 12v (20A) fed to the heating element terminal blocks, and 12v (2A) fed to the control electronics, there's still something missing for the AES. The manual talks about feeding the "dynamo" (D+) and "solar" (S+) signals to different terminals in the electronics. Without these feeds, I suspect the AES will never select 12v.

I need to take a closer look at the way my fridge is actually wired up, though. There's a chance the 12v heating element terminal is connected to the D+ terminal behind the scenes.

Not sure how the AES works with respect to shutting the engine off if the heating elements have 12v but the D+ terminal isn't hooked up. Need to do more reading and eventually some experimenting.
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Old 06-28-2016, 07:37 PM   #15
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Here's what I have in the install manual I have for the 8555.
====================================
4.9.2 Battery connection
The machine's 12V connection cable is connec-
ted (observing correct polarity) to a terminal
strip. The wiring for the heating element (refer to
A, B wiring diagram connections; connection
cable white/red) must be direct and by the shor-
test possible route to the battery or electric
generator.
Cable cross sections and cable lengths
Motorcaravan & Caravan (inside)
4 mm ˛ (RML = 6 mm ˛ ) < 6 m
6 mm ˛ (RML = 10 mm ˛ ) > 6 m
Caravan (outside)
min 2,5 mm ˛ (EN1648-1)
2,5mm˛

Provide a 16 A fuse to protect on-board 12 V
circuit.

In order to ensure that the 12V power supply is
shut off when stopping the engine (otherwise
the battery would discharge within a few hours),
perform the power supply to the heating ele-
ment (cf. page 30, connection A/B in wiring dia-
gram) in a way to have the 12V supply only live
while the vehicle ignition is switched on.
The connection C/D (interior light, electronics,
cable black / violet) must be permanently provi-
ded by a 12V DC power supply to be protected
by a 2A fuse.

John
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:47 PM   #16
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John,

That differs from the Australia/NZ installation guide that rbryan provided. In your manual, is there a section 4.9.3 talking about hooking up D+ and solar connections? In the Aus/NZ version, section 4.9.3 states that the appliance AES will only choose 12v if there's voltage detected on the D+ terminal.

The description and pictures in the Aus/NZ installation manual match what I see looking at the back of the fridge. It has a 2014 date on it, so it's not too far out-of-date.

What's the locale for your manual? Judging from the language, I'd guess it's not North America.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:05 PM   #17
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The effort to do this is not worth the work for me. (But if you want to do it, go for it.) You will need 2 additional wires to the fridge electronics:
1) solar voltage
2) tow vehicle voltage
These wires are normally connected straight to the 12V battery, so even if the solar controller or tug power is off the fridge will see 12+ volts on these wires.

The next sentence needs to be addressed by someone more competent in this area than I am. I *think* you can get a blocking diode to prevent the voltage "backfeed" but it *may* lower the solar/car charging voltage by 0.6 volts.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:07 PM   #18
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The D+ terminal should NOT be connected to the heating element. It is intended to be a signal wire - not to provide any significant current.
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:45 PM   #19
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Oh, I don't intend to hook up the D+ or S+ terminals. I was just observing that they were there, and that if they aren't hooked up, I believe the fridge AES should never choose 12v operation.

I actually wouldn't mind having the D+ hooked up -- it would be convenient to automatically switch to 12v when the tow vehicle was runnings. But the little bit of convenience is far outweighed by the difficulty of running the extra wires.

But the key for me is being able to manually select 12v operation. Currently that's not working. My belief is that if I hook up power to the heating element terminals in the terminal block, but leave S+ and D+ disconnected, 12v will work on manual but will never be selected on automatic.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
...
But the key for me is being able to manually select 12v operation. Currently that's not working. My belief is that if I hook up power to the heating element terminals in the terminal block, but leave S+ and D+ disconnected, 12v will work on manual but will never be selected on automatic.
You are correct.
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