Rust and possible water entry points under propane tray. - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-21-2016, 02:29 PM   #11
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Not an ant bed FS, just experienced molded fiberglass/sticky folks. I've rehabbed around 5 molded fiberglass travel trailers and now selected Escape as our permanent trailer based on experience with rehabbing other brands. Once you've worked on, restored, and camped in some of the other brands and types of trailers you'd understand why Escape folks are very high on their trailers. The resale history and availability speaks volumes on these trailers as well. Are they perfect, no, but modding, tinkering and improving the trailers is for some a major part of the hobby. If you're not convinced yet, pickup one of the used ones that may or may not still be available and use it for a couple of years then you'll know for sure. That's what we did with a used 17b and then we knew and ordered our 19 the way we wanted it.
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:49 PM   #12
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Not an ant bed FS, just experienced molded fiberglass/sticky folks. I've rehabbed around 5 molded fiberglass travel trailers and now selected Escape as our permanent trailer based on experience with rehabbing other brands. Once you've worked on, restored, and camped in some of the other brands and types of trailers you'd understand why Escape folks are very high on their trailers. The resale history and availability speaks volumes on these trailers as well. Are they perfect, no, but modding, tinkering and improving the trailers is for some a major part of the hobby. If you're not convinced yet, pickup one of the used ones that may or may not still be available and use it for a couple of years then you'll know for sure. That's what we did with a used 17b and then we knew and ordered our 19 the way we wanted it.
good points....and yes I can not help to notice that used Escapes seemed to be listed and sold in single digits and quite quickly while the other fiberglass egg looked at is listed and sold currently in the double digits and not near as fast!
also this potential camper not looking at a trailer purchase as another hobby, multiple purchase, or a constant DIY project, just want to relax and enjoy it for a while...
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:39 PM   #13
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It's never a problem until one person finds it and let's others know. Being proactive on issues is one of the great things about being a member of a forum, any forum. A washer isn't going to stop rust. So if ETI added a washer it won't help long term. It's like any metal with raw holes, maintenance and paint touch up are a requirement.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:46 PM   #14
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I agree that screwing stuff into the top of the frame rails is undesirable. It is a common practice in the RV industry, and unlikely to cause any major problem... but still not the best idea. My old Boler has the propane tank tray welded onto the top of the frame: no holes, but issues for the tray paint coating.

Welded-on brackets would be great. U-bolts around the frame would be less tidy but would work fine. Welded-on mounting studs would probably work, too. Insert nuts (such as Rivuts) would still make holes, but would be better than self-tapping and should still have a sealing washer. Even screws into the side of the frame for an L-bracket would be better than screws into the top of the frame.

I note that Escape has changed from body-mounting bolts run vertically through holes in the frame rails to body-mounting brackets welded to the side of the frame rails. Perhaps a smaller-scale adjustment in propane tank bracket mounting could be next?
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
A washer isn't going to stop rust. So if ETI added a washer it won't help long term.
Perhaps it will, by keeping water out of the screw hole:
Quote:
Originally Posted by M.W.Deters View Post
The surface rust is not so much a concern as the fact that the tray clearly collects water which can enter the frame at the screws.
...
I simply installed washer gaskets between the bottom of the tray and the frame to mitigate water entry.
We're not talking about a metal washer, but rather a gasket.

Of course, in the fine tradition of RVs, the real solution is to gob some sort of sealant all over the area of the screw.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I agree that screwing stuff into the top of the frame rails is undesirable. It is a common practice in the RV industry, and unlikely to cause any major problem... but still not the best idea. My old Boler has the propane tank tray welded onto the top of the frame: no holes, but issues for the tray paint coating.

Welded-on brackets would be great. U-bolts around the frame would be less tidy but would work fine. Welded-on mounting studs would probably work, too. Insert nuts (such as Rivuts) would still make holes, but would be better than self-tapping and should still have a sealing washer. Even screws into the side of the frame for an L-bracket would be better than screws into the top of the frame.

I note that Escape has changed from body-mounting bolts run vertically through holes in the frame rails to body-mounting brackets welded to the side of the frame rails. Perhaps a smaller-scale adjustment in propane tank bracket mounting could be next?
very good ideas ..and thanks for sharing the knowledge about the Escape body mounting change....
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by freespirit View Post
not having seen the bottom of the optional storage box..is it also mounted with self-threading screws directly into the sq tube frame and a possible point of water entry into the frame rather than to a welded bracket to the sq tube frame?
The storage box is bolted to long "L" brackets welded to the (inner) sides of the "A" frame, the bolting face of each bracket is flush with the top face of the "A" frame box members. Appropriate engineering.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:12 PM   #18
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The storage box is bolted to long "L" brackets welded to the (inner) sides of the "A" frame, the bolting face of each bracket is flush with the top face of the "A" frame box members. Appropriate engineering.
thank you for the information.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:15 PM   #19
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Attached is a picture of the storage box attachment bracket on my 17B.
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File Type: jpg 020.JPG (86.3 KB, 65 views)
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:47 PM   #20
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Went out to check my propane tray and found almost identical situation. No need to post more photos there, but while I was at it decided to chip away all the loose paint on the tongue unit that is welded on then spray painted. Whatever that paint is its not very durable. It looks like bare metal towards the front but its not, just the sun shining. Am going to use Hammerite on it all. While looking up from underneath I found that the frame rails come together and are open. No need to drill holes to let any water out. Lastly, while further inspecting have noticed some more light corrosion and feel like I'm going to be like BCNomad soon with a lot of face to the bottom of trailer time coming soon. Driving over ocean water on Hwy 1 north of San Simeon didn't help I'm sure.
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File Type: jpg 20160323_125711[1].jpg (134.2 KB, 26 views)
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