Rust and possible water entry points under propane tray. - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-23-2016, 03:50 PM   #21
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Another reason to get the foam spray, your frame is 80% covered, less repainting.
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:16 PM   #22
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Went out to check my propane tray and found almost identical situation. No need to post more photos there, but while I was at it decided to chip away all the loose paint on the tongue unit that is welded on then spray painted. Whatever that paint is its not very durable. It looks like bare metal towards the front but its not, just the sun shining. Am going to use Hammerite on it all. While looking up from underneath I found that the frame rails come together and are open. No need to drill holes to let any water out. Lastly, while further inspecting have noticed some more light corrosion and feel like I'm going to be like BCNomad soon with a lot of face to the bottom of trailer time coming soon. Driving over ocean water on Hwy 1 north of San Simeon didn't help I'm sure.
Ross great stuff the Hammerite have used many times . Just haven't checked mine out yet but I probably need to touch up frame . Have you used primer that converts the rust ? This is just maintenance, repainting the metal . Think I will change the bolts to stainless and use some kind of washers to help the situation from rusting so bad . Pat
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:23 PM   #23
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Is there not some sort of electrical system you can install that slows down or eliminates corrosion? I remember seeing one on a trailer, operated of 12v....
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:29 PM   #24
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Here is one RS-5 FAQ - Rust Stop
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:53 PM   #25
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I like the idea of inhibiting rust electrically, but since that unit is designed for motor vehicles, I'm wondering about battery drain if used on a trailer.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:48 PM   #26
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Is there not some sort of electrical system you can install that slows down or eliminates corrosion? I remember seeing one on a trailer, operated of 12v....
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That's supposed to be an impressed current cathodic protection system. This approach is absolutely valid and very important to corrosion prevention... for buried and floating steel structures where the ground or water carries current. It doesn't make sense to me that this would work on a structure in air such as a land vehicle - is anyone aware of a plausible explanation of how it would work (not the manufacturer's declaration that it does), or solid evidence that is does?

If sticking a handful of metal on the frame and hooking up few dollars worth of simple electronics would prevent rust, wouldn't major automotive manufacturers offer it? They spend a fortune on special materials (galvanized in some cases) and coatings to prevent rust.

The Wikipedia page for Cathodic Protection is pretty good. Although this sort of source is certainly not authoritative, it can help understanding, and is a good starting point for research. The Automotive section of this page links for four interesting references.
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Old 03-23-2016, 05:52 PM   #27
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I like the idea of inhibiting rust electrically, but since that unit is designed for motor vehicles, I'm wondering about battery drain if used on a trailer.
Their spec suggests that it would use up about an amp-hour per day, which is a problem for typical motor vehicles parked for several weeks at a time. I wouldn't want that level of draw on trailer parked for months, unless there was a solar or other external power source.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:26 PM   #28
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So, after reading this thread earlier in the year, it was on my TO DO list to check out the frame under the propane tank tray for rust. YUP, the rust 15 months post production is eating away at the top of the frame and the tray itself is being eaten away as well at each of these points. Though the rust isn't anything serious yet, it isn't just superficial. I used my dremel tool to wire brush away the rust down to bare metal and am now painting the 4 spots on the frame and on the tray with the appropriate coloured Tremclad rust paint with 2 coats. Then I was going to put washer/gaskets there as described by others and maybe some butyl sealant as well where the frame contacts the tray. My hope is that it will fill the gaps around the water and keep water away. I have seen other trailer brands with similar rust (or worse), so I'm not putting this on ETI. I do think it's a matter of maintenance, but the washers and butyl may reduce the frequency of maintenance. I want my Escape to last and look great for years to come!

Any feedback on the butyl idea?

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Old 08-19-2016, 06:46 PM   #29
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Bob butyl is a great product, it gives off an oil that will repel water, re-seals its self when ever it gets hot and will easily fill in any abnormalities in the metal.
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Old 08-19-2016, 06:52 PM   #30
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After cleaning up the rust and repainting I used some garden hose washers I had...2 are brown rubber looking and two are green plastic. It all came apart recently for a new coupler and all was well.
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