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Old 10-01-2018, 09:51 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
See if ETI will pay for the fix.
My expectation is they should pay for repair and all the antifreeze I went through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
...and maybe throw on a brass valve while you’re at it? I’m sure there are adaptors for PEX crimp ends.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...etails=.photos
If ETI covers under warranty, which they should I will leave to them on what they send me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Those Camco bypass valves are intended to be mounted directly to the water heater ports, assuming that those ports are the usual 1/2" NPT female. A good feature is that if they are installed directly to the heater, it would be difficult to install them the wrong way; a possible challenge (depending on trailer model) might be access, although that would be fine in all models shown in this thread.
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Just a follow up on what I said above about flipping valves back to bypass and rinsing out tank. At a minimum you want to plug the tank without the anode if you intend to leave antifreeze in the hot water heater.

Directly from Suburban manual:
“If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to close off the water heater, drain the water heater completely and leave the water heater closed off (out of the system) in the bypass position particularly if you are introducing antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod creating premature failure and heavy sediment in the tank. If the plumbing system is not equipped with a bypass kit, and you intend to winterize by adding antifreeze to the system, remove the anode rod (storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4" drain plug.”
I drained Hot water tank and rinsed out with fresh water with one of those hot water tank rinsers you put on end of hose. I also rinsed off the anode rod and did not install back into hot water tank.

Drained the fresh water tank and took to dump station and emptied the tanks and back into storage.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:06 AM   #62
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There have been many discussions about winterizing that advised to not fill the fresh water tank or the water heater with antifreeze. You said you ordered a hand pump to fill the lines through the city water so I don't see how you can expect ETI to reimburse you for the antifreeze you used needlessly.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:21 AM   #63
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There have been many discussions about winterizing that advised to not fill the fresh water tank or the water heater with antifreeze. You said you ordered a hand pump to fill the lines through the city water so I don't see how you can expect ETI to reimburse you for the antifreeze you used needlessly.
I ordered hand pump, but have not received thus did not use. Will just store away and use if ever needed or sell in garage sale.

If ETI had installed the bottom valve correctly I would have only needed one or two bottles of Antifreeze and been done.

With temps starting to hit freezing or below at night I had to get the water out of hot water lines and the only way to do that was to fill the fresh water tank and pump into hot water tank to get antifreeze into the hot water lines. Again would not have needed to do this if who ever at ETI installed the valve did so correctly.


Cheers
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:26 AM   #64
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Again would not have needed to do this if who ever at ETI installed the valve did so correctly.


Cheers

You should have filled the fresh water tank with vodka.
Cheers.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:17 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
There have been many discussions about winterizing that advised to not fill the fresh water tank or the water heater with antifreeze. You said you ordered a hand pump to fill the lines through the city water so I don't see how you can expect ETI to reimburse you for the antifreeze you used needlessly.
The city water inlet, fresh tank or a winterizing tee is just the means of antifreeze input. Kent still needs a working bypass to fill the hot water side of the system regardless. His only option was to fill the hot water heater and then drain it. I commend him for persevering and getting the job done with a workaround. Let’s not forget that before water heater bypasses and winterizing tees that antifreeze was put in a lot of tanks all winter. Not saying it is ideal, but Scamp’s winterizing instructions still have one putting antifreeze in the fresh tank. Kent drained all the tanks so I don’t see any issue.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:22 AM   #66
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Kent: In all the commotion did you remember to pour some antifreeze down all your drains? The sinks are usually done inherently as you are completing the faucets, but it is easy to forget the shower drain.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:29 AM   #67
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All this has reminded me that I should get around to winterizing this month or next. I'll take a photo of my bypass set up when I get around to it. My recollection is that the valve levers are both on the same side in my classic, but we shall see.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:52 AM   #68
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Kent: In all the commotion did you remember to pour some antifreeze down all your drains? The sinks are usually done inherently as you are completing the faucets, but it is easy to forget the shower drain.
All drains were filled, through this whole process today using the water pump I emptied the fresh water tank and tried to get as much fluid out of water heater all going into Shower drain, toilet, kitchen sink and outside shower. I do not have sink in the bath.



This is what I used the past few days trying to figure this thing out!
$3.50 each.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:08 AM   #69
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If our collective forum thread supposition is correct, it appears the problem is two-fold: 1) a valve was installed improperly (unfortunately, that kind of thing can happen) and 2) the improper installation was not discovered during final inspection before Kent took ownership (that kind of thing should never happen). The improper valve installation would have been obvious had ETI tested the water system in winterizing by-pass mode. Looks like one more thing ETI needs to add to their final inspection sheet. Interestingly, our 21' came with a big notice in the galley area that our camper had been winterized prior to delivery (shipped to us in February), so they had to have used the by-pass valves to do that. Perhaps ours is the only situation (delivery in Winter) where an improperly installed valve would necessarily be discovered at the factory.
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:02 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Those Camco bypass valves are intended to be mounted directly to the water heater ports, assuming that those ports are the usual 1/2" NPT female. A good feature is that if they are installed directly to the heater, it would be difficult to install them the wrong way; a possible challenge (depending on trailer model) might be access, although that would be fine in all models shown in this thread.
I can tell you that I did not find it difficult to install the Camco bypass valves incorrectly (pre-Escape experience). If one does not pay attention, they are readily reversed.
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:23 AM   #71
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I received call this morning from Dave at ETI and yes the bottom valve was confirmed by Reace was installed backwards. They are sending me pre-made tubing ready to go and all the parts needed.

I will wait until next spring to fix, when I can flush out the antifreeze and blow out the lines with air so not having to worry about antifreeze leaking all over the floor.

They are also giving me a $50 gift card for the antifreeze I had to use.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:49 PM   #72
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I received call this morning from Dave at ETI and yes the bottom valve was confirmed by Reace was installed backwards. They are sending me pre-made tubing ready to go and all the parts needed.

I will wait until next spring to fix, when I can flush out the antifreeze and blow out the lines with air so not having to worry about antifreeze leaking all over the floor.

They are also giving me a $50 gift card for the antifreeze I had to use.
Great news. Once again ETI have demontrated that customer satisfaction is very important to them and have resolved this in a very fair manner.
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Old 10-02-2018, 01:50 PM   #73
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I received call this morning from Dave at ETI and yes the bottom valve was confirmed by Reace was installed backwards. They are sending me pre-made tubing ready to go and all the parts needed. I will wait until next spring to fix, when I can flush out the antifreeze and blow out the lines with air so not having to worry about antifreeze leaking all over the floor. They are also giving me a $50 gift card for the antifreeze I had to use.
Another example of the great customer service that we've come to expect from Reace and ETI.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:40 PM   #74
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Received Picture from Dave, this is what they are sending me.

A little bit more than I expected.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:55 PM   #75
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Received Picture from Dave, this is what they are sending me.

A little bit more than I expected.
That’s a nice gesture but makes me curious how 6 connections could be easier than 3? Wouldn’t it be easier to just replace the valve? Actually if you spin the existing valve it’s only two connections.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:17 PM   #76
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That’s a nice gesture but makes me curious how 6 connections could be easier than 3? Wouldn’t it be easier to just replace the valve? Actually if you spin the existing valve it’s only two connections.


Agree. I would just carefully cut the two existing bands on the valve with a Dremel and cutting disc, spin it, then recrimp with fresh pex rings. Five minutes.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:47 PM   #77
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Just a guess, but given the confines of the area and the stiffness of short pieces of that diameter pex tubing, what ETI has provided might be their best guess as to a "fool proof" way for an owner with unknown skills to make the fix at their home. I wouldn't be surprised if it's an in-house, bench-made, pre-fab unit ready for their plumber guy to just grab off a stack and install in the next camper in the assembly line. Again, just a guess. But I've not known Reace to make anything harder than it needs to be. Just sayin'....
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:03 PM   #78
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Just a guess, but given the confines of the area and the stiffness of short pieces of that diameter pex tubing, what ETI has provided might be their best guess as to a "fool proof" way for an owner with unknown skills to make the fix at their home. I wouldn't be surprised if it's an in-house, bench-made, pre-fab unit ready for their plumber guy to just grab off a stack and install in the next camper in the assembly line. Again, just a guess. But I've not known Reace to make anything harder than it needs to be. Just sayin'....
I see your point, but unless that assembly was pressure tested you now have 30 potential leak points once you are done. Personally I rather wrestle with the valve and only worry about 2 or 3 connections.
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:05 PM   #79
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I see your point, but unless that assembly was pressure tested you now have 30 potential leak points once you are done. Personally I rather wrestle with the valve and only worry about 2 or 3 connections.

Plus, it will probably be easier to reach the pex rings for crimping just the valve than some of the full-meal-deal setup crimps.
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:06 PM   #80
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oops double post
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