RV Antifreeze will not Flow on Hot side of Taps! - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-02-2018, 10:08 PM   #81
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I am amazed at the gratitude expressed.
And, of course you know that the unit was not pressure tested on the bench?
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:56 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Just a guess, but given the confines of the area and the stiffness of short pieces of that diameter pex tubing, what ETI has provided might be their best guess as to a "fool proof" way for an owner with unknown skills to make the fix at their home. I wouldn't be surprised if it's an in-house, bench-made, pre-fab unit ready for their plumber guy to just grab off a stack and install in the next camper in the assembly line. Again, just a guess. But I've not known Reace to make anything harder than it needs to be. Just sayin'....
Thinking about this more Reace may be concerned with the difficulty of cutting the crimp rings off the valve in three places without damaging the pipes. Then removing the pipe from the fittings is very tough if not impossible. Even if you get the sides broken free spinning the valve may not work if the bypass line crimp is as tight as it should be. Then recrimping the existing pipes may have the potential for leaks. I’m starting to see why they are sending the whole assembly.
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:05 PM   #83
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I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that Reace was trying to do the right thing as good as he could. I don't know, maybe I'm just overthinking it.
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:52 PM   #84
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... And, of course you know that the unit was not pressure tested on the bench?
Interesting statement/question. In a mass production situation (kind of), I don't believe it would be all that difficult or time consuming to pressure test the assembly using air pressure under soapy water to look for bubbles (like checking a tire for air leaks). Just plug a few terminal ends, press an air nozzle in the last one, apply air pressure, dip in a vat of soapy water and look for bubbles. It would be interesting to know if ETI does something like that - just out of curiosity....
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:48 AM   #85
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The thing is, with a pex crimper properly adjusted, it’s a done deal. Commercial plumbers or factories crimp thousands of fittings and rarely stop to use the gauge to see if it is tight as the crimper comes out of adjustment. Working for a home builder, I had it out with the plumbers all of the time on this issue.

This was a very interesting thread with everyone trying to figure out the problem. As for the original poster, he had no choice but to fill the water heater. Bozeman gets some pretty cold weather and it comes early. I think the weather showed our Canadian friends getting snow for the next several days. Loren
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Old 10-10-2018, 12:36 PM   #86
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I’m having the same problem winterizing our new 17B, no fluid coming through the hot water outlets. Just thought that if the hot water tank is bypassed then it made sense that nothing would come out of that line. Apparently, reading here, it should. Will have to compare these pictures with our configuration, assume our bypass was not done correctly either, whoopee!
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Old 10-10-2018, 12:38 PM   #87
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I'm going to add to my list a picture of the bypass system so that I'll know before hand if it was done right.
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Old 10-11-2018, 06:46 PM   #88
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Update

Received the parts to replace the by-pass valve that was installed backwards by ETI.

There was miscommunication with regards to what they were sending me and what I received, the picture I posted at the start of thread was meant to show how the valve should be installed for reference.

What I received was just the valve, Pex and extra parts in case they are needed.

Looking forward to next spring, when I will be able to fix.
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File Type: jpg Water Heater By-pass repair.jpg (235.9 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Pex Repair.jpg (119.3 KB, 13 views)
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:47 PM   #89
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How does one remove the old pinch crimp rings?
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:17 PM   #90
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Quote:
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How does one remove the old pinch crimp rings?
Per Dave at ETI, use side cutters to cut the part that sticks up on the crimp, remove crimp and slide Pex off the fitting.


You can also use flat tip screwdriver on the exposed end of ring and twist and pry to loosen the crimp.


What I've seen on YouTube side cutters would be my choice with plastic fittings.
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:18 PM   #91
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Old 10-11-2018, 08:27 PM   #92
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Quote:
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How does one remove the old pinch crimp rings?
They are the clamp style fittings. There should be a little tab that can be straightened with needle nose pliers and then a flat head screw driver used to pry the clamp open.

The bigger issue is if doing it yourself you need a calibrated clamp tool to reinstall. I don’t have one. Maybe I should.
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File Type: jpg 3F8AF785-E19A-4FF5-B507-0396C8F991F8.jpg (94.9 KB, 27 views)
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:16 PM   #93
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Quote:
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The bigger issue is if doing it yourself you need a calibrated clamp tool to reinstall. I don’t have one. Maybe I should.
I've installed Pex with the ring clamps and never had a problem. Never have used the pinch clamp so went and bought the crimp tool, Pex and pinch clamps and have been practicing.

The tool ratchets as you compress and will not release until you have a full crimp. Not sure if they are all like that, but makes it fool proof as long as you check the gap with the gauge provided.

Now that I have practiced with the pinch clamps. I think they are better than the ring crimps.
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File Type: jpg IWISS 2098.jpg (59.6 KB, 22 views)
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:14 AM   #94
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Just winterized yesterday and had a similar problem. We bypassed the hot water tank and used the T-Valve to draw the antifreeze out of the bottles, which it did. The interesting thing was that the fluid flowed normally out of all the cold taps, but only out of the bathroom and external shower on the hot side. The kitchen sink had only enough pressure for the hot water to flow minimally, like it was restricted in some way. The water ran pink so we're confident that the line is winterized, but it was noticeable that the tap didn't behave like the others.
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:26 AM   #95
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check the spigot screen....
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:35 PM   #96
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Update 2

I have been practicing not only installing PEX fittings using the pinch clamp, but also how to remove the clamps and remove PEX from the fittings.

I thought using side cutters to cut or or loosen the pinch point would be the best way, but found using side cutters to pry up on the exposed end of the clamp was enough to loosen the clamp and slide off.

Using the flat tip screw driver on the exposed end is another method as mentioned by another member, but finding the side cutters on the end was easier to get the end to pry up.

As expected I found trying to pull the PEX off the fitting was impossible, but found applying a little heat from a hairdryer for about 1 to 2 minutes I could pull the Pex off easily.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1 PEX Test_DSC_2208.jpg (116.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 2 PEX Test_Sidecutter_DSC_2214.jpg (160.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 3 Pex Test_Flat Tip 1_DSC_2212.jpg (158.9 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 4 Pex Test_Flat 2 Tip_DSC_2213.jpg (129.2 KB, 15 views)
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Old 10-19-2018, 09:53 PM   #97
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Did you turn the top valve?
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Old 10-21-2018, 04:54 PM   #98
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New valve Installed Correctly

With the current run of nice weather and temps in 60's / 70's I decided to go ahead and install the new valve ETI sent me.

After all said and done, when I went to remove the old clamps I ended up using my Dremel tool with cut-off wheel cutting off the pitched knob of clamp.

To test I put in by-pass mode and used water pump and RV antifreeze to pressurize the system. No leaks at this time!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Old Valve Removed_DSC_2220.jpg (358.9 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg New Valve_DSC_2222.jpg (65.8 KB, 16 views)
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:18 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent View Post
With the current run of nice weather and temps in 60's / 70's I decided to go ahead and install the new valve ETI sent me.

After all said and done, when I went to remove the old clamps I ended up using my Dremel tool with cut-off wheel cutting off the pitched knob of clamp.

To test I put in by-pass mode and used water pump and RV antifreeze to pressurize the system. No leaks at this time!
Kent: Nice work. Way to take the initiative and get this taken care of. Hoping ETI know now has this as a part of their QC checks too.
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