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Old 05-19-2019, 03:13 PM   #41
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Simple question, why are you mounting it on the rear support vs the front? Isn't there more force at the front of the awning?
My understanding is that the wind pressure which causes the awning to unfurl is due to heavy side winds from the passenger side. Also, the "normal" pawl-and-ratchet lock is located at the front of the trailer. This second lock is just "insurance" if the single pawl-and-ratchet unit fails.

I had a phone discussion last fall with the inventor and he has been advocating for the RV industry to install two (2) pawl-and-ratchet locks: one at the front and one at the rear so that you'd have two things to fail before awning unfurls.

It happens....The Awning is out - OMG - I am still driving down the Road - iRV2 Forums
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:22 PM   #42
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I'm convinced that if the awning strap is too close to the locking mechanism that it can flap around, hit the locking latch and switch the lever to "open". Might not be the only cause, but is my main suspect.
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:18 PM   #43
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I’ve taken care of that possibility gbaglo, took a strip of metal ( couldn’t locate my roll of spring steel) about an inch wide, 3 inches long and bent it to match the angles of the awning arm. Then drilled a 5/8 hole so the lock latch would slide into. This keeps the latch from moving. One just has to push it out to release when you are ready to use the awning. Raining atm so will post picture later. Took about 10 mins
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Old 05-26-2019, 03:45 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by huskersteffy View Post
I finally got my awning lock installed.

Save Your RV Awning with an RV Awning Travel Lock!

I had to modify it to fit the camper by flipping the plunger 180 Degrees. I have a friend who does metal work and I was going to have him chop and then re-weld. However, he had the great idea to just cut another notch and then flip the insides. You can see what I mean from the 1st pic. The "stock" lock from the inventor/manufacturer (Keith) would have the plunger pointing downward in the 1st pic. If you contact Keith, he might make you a "special" since would pretty easy for him to make the plunger point the other way.

Be sure to swap out the 3/4" deep self-threaded screws for some 1/2" deep ones so they will miss the slide post when it is raised.
Tried standard install instructions -don't work because ETI installs the awning differently than stickies with the canvas rail higher up and not on the sidewall. Due to this there is more canvas exposed and thus more potential for the wind to cause unfurling. This was from Keith Williams who is aware of several instances es of unfurling with Escapes. When I spoke with him today Ireferenced Huskerfly's solution he said rather than do that it could be attached to the front arm(so as to not turn it 180) so long as the latch was not an issue. He said originally that is where they were placed, however in some situations the latch does interfere. Worked out easily and happy to have this.
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Old 05-26-2019, 04:28 PM   #45
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Nice install Ross, looks like it should do the job quite nicely I think I might do the same.
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Old 05-26-2019, 04:52 PM   #46
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Ireferenced Huskerfly's solution he said rather than do that it could be attached to the front arm(so as to not turn it 180) so long as the latch was not an issue.
Glad it worked out for you Rossue.
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:52 PM   #47
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Thanks guys; it was Stefan's comment about Keith maybe being able to make one upside down that had me call him to do so and swap me out. Of course it was obvious to Keith that my original would be inverted if attached to the front- it definitely wasn't to me.

One little trick my buddy had me do before drilling the hole for the plunger was to coat the top with some blue pencil then release it onto the roller cap to make a mark.
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:35 AM   #48
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Thanks guys; it was Stefan's comment about Keith maybe being able to make one upside down that had me call him to do so and swap me out. Of course it was obvious to Keith that my original would be inverted if attached to the front- it definitely wasn't to me.

One little trick my buddy had me do before drilling the hole for the plunger was to coat the top with some blue pencil then release it onto the roller cap to make a mark.
Ross looks like a nice install . Looks like another improvement coming for us too ! Just call and explain what we have and he can adjust it for us ? Pat
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Old 05-27-2019, 01:29 AM   #49
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Tried standard install instructions -don't work because ETI installs the awning differently than stickies with the canvas rail higher up and not on the sidewall. Due to this there is more canvas exposed and thus more potential for the wind to cause unfurling. This was from Keith Williams who is aware of several instances es of unfurling with Escapes. When I spoke with him today Ireferenced Huskerfly's solution he said rather than do that it could be attached to the front arm(so as to not turn it 180) so long as the latch was not an issue. He said originally that is where they were placed, however in some situations the latch does interfere. Worked out easily and happy to have this.
Did you have to use some shorter 1/2 inch screws instead of the 3/4 for that?
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:44 AM   #50
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You have to use shorter screws if mounting on the arm or one can mount it on the awning bracket attached to the shell of the escape. This makes for a stronger mount and is out of the way when the awning is deployed
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:52 AM   #51
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You have to use shorter screws if mounting on the arm or one can mount it on the awning bracket attached to the shell of the escape. This makes for a stronger mount and is out of the way when the awning is deployed
That does look like it would be a strong way to mount the bracket. Did you have to get a slightly longer screw to make up for the thickness of the mount? That screw must go into some wood on the other side of the fiberglass? What did you do with that side of the awning when it was off the mount?
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:00 AM   #52
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Yes had to get longer bolt to mount to bracket. When you look you will see escape used a spacer when mounting the metal bracket to the trailer. You have plenty of room for a longer nut n bolt without any worries of damaging the trailer surface
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:11 AM   #53
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For the latch I made this real quick just before we came up to the rally. It will be redone with spring steel when we return home.
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:13 AM   #54
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Did you have to use some shorter 1/2 inch screws instead of the 3/4 for that?
I didn't; the only fasteners I received were the two to hold the rv lock to it's flat slide bracket. To attach to arms we used what we could find in the garage which were some 1" machine screws. At the height of attachment to the arm the rafter (arm inside the arm)behind is low enough that it does not interfere.
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Old 05-27-2019, 09:19 AM   #55
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You have to use shorter screws if mounting on the arm or one can mount it on the awning bracket attached to the shell of the escape. This makes for a stronger mount and is out of the way when the awning is deployed
There is a difference in mounting to a Gen2 vs. Gen1. Keith Williams at RV Lock is uodating his web page and asked if he could use my photo. I sent him a link to this thread and hopefully he will be also attaching information re: Gen2 installation.
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Old 05-27-2019, 03:05 PM   #56
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For the latch I made this real quick just before we came up to the rally. It will be redone with spring steel when we return home.
I think that is genius and may borrow ! Pat
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:29 PM   #57
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Go for it
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Old 05-27-2019, 04:33 PM   #58
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There is a difference in mounting to a Gen2 vs. Gen1. Keith Williams at RV Lock is uodating his web page and asked if he could use my photo. I sent him a link to this thread and hopefully he will be also attaching information re: Gen2 installation.
Glad he’s listening to you Rossue . I told him this back when I installed mine but all I got back was his way to install was the only way his lock would work. Even sent pictures same reply. Some people can’t handle changes
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:21 PM   #59
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:21 PM   #60
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For the latch I made this real quick just before we came up to the rally. It will be redone with spring steel when we return home.
Hello Oldtimer,
When you redo the latch lock, would you be very kind to make me an extra, and I will pay for it. Thanks.

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