Shakedown cruise

[pittendrigh]

My current 21 footer is our second Escape. We're fans. We had a 19' footer first time around. One or two anecdotes follow, ending with a question.

0) I had trouble with the digital thermostat at first. But (with help from this forum) I got it figured out. Auto seems to be the best thermostat setting. Then set the temperature and let circuit board AI do its thing.

1)
Driving down the highway without locking the trailer door is bad practice. Bad bad bad. With our 19' footer however, which we had for 4 years, we did space out a few times and forgot to lock the door. With the 19' footer it wasn't a problem. Even though not locked that door stayed shut. With the 21' footer we forgot one time during a six day trip, and the door popped open on the highway, almost right away. I got curious and tested it some more. Lock that new door no matter what because the 21' footer door will pop open going down the highway if not locked. Every time. Ours anyway.

2) When I get to an RV slot and try to hook up to 110 the system seems to be reluctant to switch from DC to AC. If I just ignore it and walk away and then come back a few minutes later I find the readout above the refrigerator reports it is indeed now using 110 instead of DC. As wanted and expected. But it seems to take a while. Why it doesn't change immediately is a mystery.

3) Now my question--about the Sewer hose. We bought the hotrod sewer hose when we picked up the trailer. It squashes down accordion-wise to a shorter length than the regular sewer hose, and it comes with a detachable right angle clear and red plastic end fitting that makes it easier to direct the dark waste down an appropriate tank receptacle. But that detachable right angle fitting won't fit into the black plastic hose carrier at the rear end of the trailer.

Where and how do people store that right angle sewer hose fitting?

[Ian and Sue]

If you bought the Electrical Management System or EMS or surge protector it has a delay while it checks all the parameters are safe...2 min I think and then if ok it turns on the AC power.

My sewer elbow comes apart...the bend part comes off and I am able to stuff it in the tube.

[sclifrickson]

The Rhino sewer hose has a smaller elbow that stows completely in the sewer tube. That’s one of the reasons I prefer it over other options. In your case I’d probably keep the elbow in a dedicated “biohazard” container of some sort in the front storage box.

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

The Rhino sewer hose has a smaller elbow that stows completely in the sewer tube. That’s one of the reasons I prefer it over other options. In your case I’d probably keep the elbow in a dedicated “biohazard” container of some sort in the front storage box.

Unfortunately, you have to remove the end piece from the elbow to fit in the tube. Better than having to store it elsewhere but not perfect. I really miss the tube we had on our class C that would hold the entire hose and fittings all together.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

My current 21 footer is our second Escape. We're fans. We had a 19' footer first time around. One or two anecdotes follow, ending with a question.

0) I had trouble with the digital thermostat at first. But (with help from this forum) I got it figured out. Auto seems to be the best thermostat setting. Then set the temperature and let circuit board AI do its thing.

1)
Driving down the highway without locking the trailer door is bad practice. Bad bad bad. With our 19' footer however, which we had for 4 years, we did space out a few times and forgot to lock the door. With the 19' footer it wasn't a problem. Even though not locked that door stayed shut. With the 21' footer we forgot one time during a six day trip, and the door popped open on the highway, almost right away. I got curious and tested it some more. Lock that new door no matter what because the 21' footer door will pop open going down the highway if not locked. Every time. Ours anyway.

2) When I get to an RV slot and try to hook up to 110 the system seems to be reluctant to switch from DC to AC. If I just ignore it and walk away and then come back a few minutes later I find the readout above the refrigerator reports it is indeed now using 110 instead of DC. As wanted and expected. But it seems to take a while. Why it doesn't change immediately is a mystery.

3) Now my question--about the Sewer hose. We bought the hotrod sewer hose when we picked up the trailer. It squashes down accordion-wise to a shorter length than the regular sewer hose, and it comes with a detachable right angle clear and red plastic end fitting that makes it easier to direct the dark waste down an appropriate tank receptacle. But that detachable right angle fitting won't fit into the black plastic hose carrier at the rear end of the trailer.

Where and how do people store that right angle sewer hose fitting?

If you have the Progressive Energy Management System, it comes from Escape with the long delay - 136 seconds before switching on after plugging into the pedestal.

I found the right angle connector for the sewer hose that Escape sells doesn't fit in the storage tube. You can either find a container it fits in, or switch to a RhinoFlex hose that has a right angle connector that fits.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

When I get to an RV slot and try to hook up to 110 the system seems to be reluctant to switch from DC to AC. If I just ignore it and walk away and then come back a few minutes later I find the readout above the refrigerator reports it is indeed now using 110 instead of DC. As wanted and expected. But it seems to take a while. Why it doesn't change immediately is a mystery.

Originally Posted by Ian and Sue

If you bought the Electrical Management System or EMS or surge protector it has a delay while it checks all the parameters are safe...2 min I think and then if ok it turns on the AC power.

Yes, ETI appears to remove the jumper in the Progressive HW30C EMS to increase the default 15 sec delay to 2 minutes 16secs. I believe this is because the stock Dometic air conditioners typically do not have restart compressor protection built-in. If you do not have A/C or you have installed an A/C that has its own protection then there is no reason to leave it on the longer delay. The problem is that the jumper position is likely gone so you may not have the jumper to reinstall.

[MyronL]

Sewer elbows that don't store, doors that don't stay latched, electronics issues, awning window issues ...?? These may be minor things, until they happen to you.