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Old 10-15-2017, 06:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
I installed this in the +12V line from the panel to the controller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's a nice find. Waterproof too.
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:24 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
You could install a breaker or inline fuse on the output of the controller.
On my recent solar install on my 15B, I used a DC breaker between the solar panels and the controller, and another between the controller and the batteries.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:22 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
I installed this in the +12V line from the panel to the controller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used those on our system as well. A breaker and switch in one.
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:20 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
You can disconnect the panel from the controller on the factory install by simply disconnecting the panel via the MC4 connector on the roof. If the trailer isn't covered, wrap the connector ends with plastic to keep moisture out while it's stored.

When you're ready to hook everything up again, it's batteries first, then the panel, because the controller won't function properly without battery connections.

I've never found a reason to pull the batteries, but then again I don't live in minus 25 weather.
Fortunately those temps don't happen much in the Anchorage area over the winter and not at all some years Because I don't know the location of the controller but wouldn't it be easier for access to use a connector of some type inside rather than the roof?
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:31 PM   #45
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Fortunately those temps don't happen much in the Anchorage area over the winter and not at all some years Because I don't know the location of the controller but wouldn't it be easier for access to use a connector of some type inside rather than the roof?
MC4s are a common weatherproof connector for solar panels. The best location for such a connector is near the panel, so that it's easier to replace the panel if necessary. No need to pull any wiring or reseal an entry point.

They mount the controller on the face of an interior overhead cabinet, but the exact location differs depending on the trailer model. The connections to the controller are screw terminals on the back. You wouldn't want to unscrew them unless you were replacing the controller or the entire wire. All you're trying to achieve here is to isolate the panel from the controller, since it's still producing electricity and sending it to a controller that has nowhere to put it.

That brings up another issue, with different recommendations depending on whom you ask - and that is whether or not to cover the panel when disconnecting it. I'm on the side of covering it, if only as a safety measure to make it stop producing power, and eliminate any chance of electrical shock. I've no idea if it hurts the panel to leave it uncovered when disconnected, but I know that covering it won't.
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