Solar panel controller

[advenas]

Hmm. I just rented an enclosed storage unit for my 17B. Since it is enclosed and has no light I figured the 6V batteries would need to be pulled so they don't discharge over the winter and freeze which would ruin them. Did that today....but didn't disconnect the controller. I'm thinking since the solar panels get no light it should be fine? Or am I mistaken? Thanks

[KarenH]

Originally Posted by advenas

Hmm. I just rented an enclosed storage unit for my 17B. Since it is enclosed and has no light I figured the 6V batteries would need to be pulled so they don't discharge over the winter and freeze which would ruin them. Did that today....but didn't disconnect the controller. I'm thinking since the solar panels get no light it should be fine? Or am I mistaken? Thanks

My trailer is in enclosed storage. I've never pulled my batteries and I do engage the disconnect switch. The longest I've left it like that is 22 weeks and I came back to a 12.2 volt reading. I think you-know-what would have to freeze over before the batteries would freeze in the PNW.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by advenas

Hmm. I just rented an enclosed storage unit for my 17B. Since it is enclosed and has no light I figured the 6V batteries would need to be pulled so they don't discharge over the winter and freeze which would ruin them. Did that today....but didn't disconnect the controller. I'm thinking since the solar panels get no light it should be fine? Or am I mistaken? Thanks

My trailer is in enclosed storage as well. I've never pulled the batteries or disconnected the panel either. Similar to what Karen mentioned, the batteries do deplete somewhat if it's been awhile since the trailer was outside, but they recover very quickly and we've had no issues.

[Jim Bennett]

I have never pulled the batteries, even before getting solar. I would plug in for a day once or twice a winter, and never had a problem. Of course, I shut any draw off with the disconnect switch. And we can get some good cold in the winter.

Remember that batteries do not have to be kept up to full charge, they just can't drop low enough to allow them to freeze. The batteries have no idea it took 3 months to drop in voltage, or overnight while using the furnace boondocking.

Now with solar, I definitely will have no problem. The charge controller will maintain a decent float charge all the time. I do have to make sure that I clear snow once in a while to make them effective. Fortunately here, we get the odd warming chinook wind that usually does this for me.

I installed my own solar, and in doing so installed breakers on the input and output side of the charge controller, which easily enables me to disconnect the charge current from with without risk of shorting something out. I agree with others that disconnecting the MC4 connectors would be your next best way to go.

[AK snowbiker]

After reading this thread I'm going to take a chance and leave my batteries onboard this winter. The trailer is stored in a unheated barn with no hook ups. From memory, last winter we had approximately 6 weeks where the nightly low was -18, -20 F or so. We do get the occasional Chinook to warm things up. Previous camper only had Group 24's that were toast after spending a winter outdoors. Will report voltage reading come mid April. Scott

Scott and Lori
Fat bikes are FUN!

[Vermilye]

For those concerned about lead acid batteries freezing, check this PDF from Trojan. It also has other useful information on storage.

Table 2 gives you a good idea as to how much solar you need to fully recharge your battery.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by advenas

...
I'm thinking since the solar panels get no light it should be fine? Or am I mistaken? Thanks

Remember, for most of us, the solar panels get no light every night of the year.


--
Alan

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Old Skool

After reading this thread I'm going to take a chance and leave my batteries onboard this winter.
...

This will be my third winter with the batteries left in the trailer. Solar on, battery switch off. In this part of Colorado we can expect a few nights of -10F each winter.

You don't need a lot of solar power - just enough to compensate for battery self-discharge. A few hours of noon sun a couple of times a month should be quite enough. With the battery switch in the off position there should be no hidden drain on the batteries. (Hidden drain would be something you normally don't notice, like the pilot light in the usb charger, or the electronics in the 'fridge even when running on propane, etc.)

--
Alan

[AK snowbiker]

The trailer, solar panel will receive no sunlight from early October until mid April. Scott

Scott and Lori

[Donna D.]

Freezing batteries? I have to admit I was a bit concerned last winter. Ten Forward sat from just after the first weekend in October until the third week of April. Normally, I would have been camping in January and February, but due to a miserably cold and snowy winter that didn't happen. The batteries were fully charged in October. When I finally checked the charge in April, they were at 12.3. Trust me, I was a happy camper as I didn't want to replace three-year old dual 6volts

[advenas]

Originally Posted by KarenH

My trailer is in enclosed storage. I've never pulled my batteries and I do engage the disconnect switch. The longest I've left it like that is 22 weeks and I came back to a 12.2 volt reading. I think you-know-what would have to freeze over before the batteries would freeze in the PNW.

I moved my trailer to Cle Elum WA for storing this winter since it was cheaper, I camp east of Seattle all the time and I'm hoping to relocate over there next year anyway. Since my trailer will be inside with no way to recharge the batteries and it does get below freezing I figured it would be safer to pull the them. The solar panel is covered and being in an enclosed very dark storage unit figured the batteries could discharge far enough to freeze.

However, I will pull the solar panel connections when I'm over there Friday. Better safe than sorry. Thanks

[HappyCampers]

A fully charged battery, in otherwise good condition, will not freeze until below -70F, or until the Vikings win the Super Bowl. I charge mine up good, and then pull the fuse to prevent any current leakage. You know how cold it can get in Minnesota. About six months later I reconnect and the batteries still have enough juice to lift the front of our 5.0TA to hook up to the truck. Now I have my own garage and might keep everything connected, and just plug it in every once in a while.

[Doug]

It is always great that so many give input when I have a question. My solar controller did stop blinking but I contacted the tech people at Go Power and explained what I have done (removing batteries). They said there should not be a problem. I'll let you know in April.

[akmacs]

I'm trying to decide on whether or not to get the solar option on the 5.0 and years ago I unfortunately froze two trojan T105 in my driveway in Anchorage. I kept the motorhome plugged in for a few days each month but lost track of time and.....it was ugly. Both batteries cracked and leaked out and my battery tray was pretty much shot. It was an expensive mistake that I don't want to repeat.

That was over 8 years ago with my prior RV (no solar). I intend to place our future escape in covered, unheated storage from early Oct to early May each year and planned on pulling the batteries as I can't imagine them staying charged enough to survive the -25 that can hit in Palmer where it would be stored. Would escape be able to wire the solar controller up for quick removal?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by akmacs

Would escape be able to wire the solar controller up for quick removal?

Probably not. It's a permanent install in the cabinet face. I think your best bet (since you intend to pull the batteries anyway) is to just do that and hook them uo to a battery tender. Easy and cheap solution.

[AKCamper]

Originally Posted by akmacs

I'm trying to decide on whether or not to get the solar option on the 5.0 and years ago I unfortunately froze two trojan T105 in my driveway in Anchorage. I kept the motorhome plugged in for a few days each month but lost track of time and.....it was ugly. Both batteries cracked and leaked out and my battery tray was pretty much shot. It was an expensive mistake that I don't want to repeat.

That was over 8 years ago with my prior RV (no solar). I intend to place our future escape in covered, unheated storage from early Oct to early May each year and planned on pulling the batteries as I can't imagine them staying charged enough to survive the -25 that can hit in Palmer where it would be stored. Would escape be able to wire the solar controller up for quick removal?

Your batteries should have been able to survive being in your driveway at -25, but you may have had just one bad cell on one of your batteries (that's all it would take) and it could draw both batteries down in less than a week. Checking specific gravity before storage is a lot easier on your back than pulling them (6 volts weigh 65 lbs.) get the golf cart strap if you pull those. If you plan on doing solar I would recommend having your charge controller mounted close to your batteries.

[akmacs]

AKCamper, we will be using the state fairgrounds for winter storage and there is no access while stored so the only viable option is to pull the batteries. That is what I have been doing ever since my motorhome batteries froze. We were considering the solar option on the 5.0 but sounds like the controller must be disconnected as well when the batteries are removed. Seems like a quick connect of some kind could be used to make things easier.

I agree on the lift strap for the 6V, depending on location it's a must have.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by akmacs

AKCamper, we will be using the state fairgrounds for winter storage and there is no access while stored so the only viable option is to pull the batteries. That is what I have been doing ever since my motorhome batteries froze. We were considering the solar option on the 5.0 but sounds like the controller must be disconnected as well when the batteries are removed. Seems like a quick connect of some kind could be used to make things easier.

I agree on the lift strap for the 6V, depending on location it's a must have.

You could install a breaker or inline fuse on the output of the controller.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by akmacs

sounds like the controller must be disconnected as well when the batteries are removed.

You can disconnect the panel from the controller on the factory install by simply disconnecting the panel via the MC4 connector on the roof. If the trailer isn't covered, wrap the connector ends with plastic to keep moisture out while it's stored.

When you're ready to hook everything up again, it's batteries first, then the panel, because the controller won't function properly without battery connections.

I've never found a reason to pull the batteries, but then again I don't live in minus 25 weather.

[jamman]

I installed this in the +12V line from the panel to the controller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1