Squeaky Andersen hitch - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-02-2014, 11:06 AM   #21
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Why not: when using ball grease, place a plastic shopping bag over ball after de-coupling, then store your hitch.
Reverse order when needed.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:33 AM   #22
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I've used commercial plastic ball covers in the past, which I keep in a ziploc when not in use. I'm afraid the plastic bag would fly off while driving around between tows. The whole thing is a messy business if grease is involved. I'm hoping the dryer sheet idea works.

It's about time for Alf to chime in again about his nice clean nylon hitch plate.
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
I've used commercial plastic ball covers in the past, which I keep in a ziploc when not in use. I'm afraid the plastic bag would fly off while driving around between tows. The whole thing is a messy business if grease is involved. I'm hoping the dryer sheet idea works.

It's about time for Alf to chime in again about his nice clean nylon hitch plate.
Hi: Parker... Ding dong... LoL. Just another plus for the 5.0TA. No grease required!!!
Will we see you at Niagara Wine Escape in Sept? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:55 PM   #24
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Just another plus for the 5.0TA. No grease required!!!
I understand that you avoid grease on the plate itself by using a plastic disk, but what about the pin (on the trailer) and the jaw mechanism (in the hitch) that engages the pin: don't they need grease? All of the pulling force is applied between that pin and those jaws.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:06 PM   #25
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Will we see you at Niagara Wine Escape in Sept? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
We're planning on a trip to Maine this fall if all goes well and hope to break ground on a new house around 1 September. We had a great time last year, and it would be fun to renew friendships, but we may have to miss this year. Or, be willing to show up at the last minute if we find we can get away.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:53 PM   #26
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Dryer sheets

Why dryer sheets?

According to Wikipedia, dryer sheets likely do contain a lubricant:
Quote:
Fabric softeners work by coating the surface of the cloth fibers with a thin layer of chemicals; these chemicals have lubricant properties and are electrically conductive, thus making the fibers feel smoother and preventing buildup of static electricity.
I don't know what the lubricant might be, since the Bounce MSDS lists only the stearic acid, which is likely included as the cationic softener but may be the only lubricant as well. Whatever the lube might be, it's unlikely to be optimal for a bearing surface. I suppose the fibers (polyester according to HowStuffWorks) helps hold the lube in place, but my guess is that (as Parker suggested) any relative solid wax will work as well and will stay in place.

Personally, I would not want a sheet getting ground up in my coupler and leaving its fibers behind. Even if this works okay in a conventional setup, the high force on the ball when used with an Andersen No-Sway seems likely to destroy the sheet at least in the area where it is needed.

I don't know if Pennzoil makes Door-Ease anymore, but AGS does (as Door-Ease® Stick Lubricant) and there is also a range of stick lubricants used with metal-cutting tools in machine shops.


Anyone will to clean their ball and coupler, run an unlubricated test, clean them again, run a dryer sheet test, clean them again, and run a test with a stick lubricant?
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I understand that you avoid grease on the plate itself by using a plastic disk, but what about the pin (on the trailer) and the jaw mechanism (in the hitch) that engages the pin: don't they need grease? All of the pulling force is applied between that pin and those jaws.
Hi: I use a light coating of liquid DuraLube on the pin/mechanism more as a rust protection coating than anything. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:04 PM   #28
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I would think that you'd want some friction between the ball and the hitch. Isn't that how the Anderson controls sway?
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:05 PM   #29
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I use a light coating of liquid DuraLube on the pin/mechanism more as a rust protection coating than anything
Thanks Alf.
Just as many people run ball-and-socket couplings without lube, the very lightly loaded (compared to its capacity) fifth-wheel hitch could probably run unlubricated as well... but some grease (there are various DuraLube products but I assume this is a grease) makes sense to me (in both cases).
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:09 PM   #30
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I would think that you'd want some friction between the ball and the hitch. Isn't that how the Anderson controls sway?
The deliberate friction in an Andersen No-Sway is between the cone and a socket lined with friction material like a brake uses. The ball is made in one piece with the cone, but friction between the ball and the coupler is not part of the Andersen sway control design.

It is common in Europe to use couplers which have friction pads which clamp onto the ball for sway control - perhaps they inspired the Andersen design - but they are not used here. They would tend to loosen our stud-mounted conventional balls.
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