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Old 08-25-2013, 03:55 PM   #21
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The door is made in a mould. It's not some flat piece that's bent into shape and thus liable to go back to flat over time. It also has bends in it that give the form strength.
There has to be some tolerance allowed for the door to fit the opening, which is why the rubber gasket and foam tape. Same as the door on your car.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:12 PM   #22
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Can you share what other issues you had with your new trailer? Are you saying they were not fixed with your new trailer warranty, that you had to pay for them yourself? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 182king View Post
.... they were not real responsive on other issues I had with the trailer.

..... Just disappointed I had to make numerous DIY repairs on a new $32,000 trailer.
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:32 PM   #23
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gocamp, Look at my previous posts

Unique problems - no warranty?
Once I criticized the above solar panel mounting issues - the offer of warranty disappeared
.
Possible electrical fire?

Additional items;

-Door on water heater; missing screw wood screw that just goes into fiberglass, installed pop rivet

-Poor radio reception; found antenna wire cut in half, reconnected wire

-Cracked molding in shower, didn't fix

Didn't even call them on the additional items listed. Just fixed them.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
There's no doubt that the curved shape is stronger than a flat shape. But that doesn't mean it's strong enough to avoid flex.
It at least isn't any worse (likely to flex) than a flat door. It seems to me that the only advantages of a flat door are:
  • ease of fabrication
  • ability to use a piano hinge
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:59 PM   #25
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Door Seal

I found that if it is freezing outside (-4 deg. C) and you have the heat on inside the trailer, the door warps due to the temperature differential between the outside and inside. The inside expands due to the warm interior and outside remains contracted due to the cold. Insulating the inside of the door would reduce the temperature differential of the door and would probably reduce the warpage.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:42 PM   #26
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I wonder if it would be possible to insulate the doors with the limited expansion type (window and door) cans of expanding foam? The problem would be determining how much to put in and I imagine one would have to drill several hole to get it into all the space and some vent holes....
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:54 PM   #27
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Insulating between panels might make it worse, as it would increase the
temperature differential of the inner and outer door skins. I think the insulation would have to be attached to the inside door skin to keep the whole door from warming up to the interior temperature. Maybe the wall/headliner material would be enough and it would also match the rest of the interior. It,s just a theory.
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #28
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I don't think you can control the expanding foam enough to not distort the door. I won't try it. If it was really cold and your door has zero insulation, maybe (temporarily) glue reflectix or backpacker foam to the interior of the door (and maybe the outside!). Rubber cement is easy to remove. Hummmm.
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:49 PM   #29
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This thread is the first I've heard of a door warping. What have you observed and does it return to normal when the temp returns to normal?
Quick fix would be to open the door.
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:00 AM   #30
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The door did return to normal when it warmed up outside.
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