Several owners complained about the inaccessibility of the stabilizer "nut" in setting up the camper. found this on another site, seems easy to set up My wife always puts down the stabilizer scissor jacks when we park. It has gotten harder for her to bend down and use the electric drill socket, so I made an extension so she can stand up straight while extending and retracting the stabilizers. I bought a 30-inch 3⁄8-inch-drive socket extension, a ¾-inch-deep well socket, a 3⁄8-inch flex universal swivel and a 3⁄8-inch electric drill adapter, and snapped them all together. All she has to do is put the ¾-inch socket on the jack and use the drill to raise and lower the jack, using forward and reverse. Putting down the stabilizers is now an easy process she can do while standing.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
I don't imagine the socket has docking capabilities, so you would still need to bend over to attach. I really can't see this being terribly advantageous over a straight extension if using a drill as the actually attachment point is a ways underneath, and you would not get too much slope anyway.
But, if it works for you.......
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2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,234
Socket extensions and flex universal swivels which we grew up calling a “Wobley” can work pretty slick in many instances. As long as I have a kneeling pad so gravel doesn’t become imbedded in my knees. I could see the value of this setup and the stand up and step back stance would be easier on a tight back. This is one of the few instances where I would be ok with Chinese components. Don’t need strength and don’t need lifetime durability that day to day heavy use might demand. The Drill is probably offshore so oh well.
Iowa Dave
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Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
Geez u take all the fun out of it?
Who doesn’t like kneeling in the mud, or gravel, especially when it is cold, then add a little rain...now we’re having fun!
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,234
Alternative
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moaboy
Geez u take all the fun out of it?
Who doesn’t like kneeling in the mud, or gravel, especially when it is cold, then add a little rain...now we’re having fun!
You do what you need to, I got me one of these. And Two more coming up.
Iowa Dave
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Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,234
Deception
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtimer
Oooooohhhhhh heck no raised 4 rug rats no more lmao now it spoiling grandkids
Sorry if I misled anyone, the lad in my picture is my grandson who is 10. He’s a good camper and helps this old guy on those go fer jobs. He doesn’t eat much (yet) and works for a video game once in a while. We are a camping family and enjoy the out
of doors a lot. Sensory contact with all things natural is a daily part of our lives.
No child left inside.
Iowa Dave
Sorry if I misled anyone, the lad in my picture is my grandson who is 10. He’s a good camper and helps this old guy on those go fer jobs. He doesn’t eat much (yet) and works for a video game once in a while. We are a camping family and enjoy the out
of doors a lot. Sensory contact with all things natural is a daily part of our lives.
No child left inside.
Iowa Dave
I have two around that age, and they do work well, but inding storage for them isn’t always easy.
I've mentioned this in previous posts but it fits here too... One of the best accessories anyone towing can have is a garden kneeler. They make hitching, doing the jack stands, dumping the tanks, and most any other task where one needs to kneel down ever so much nicer for us mature folks. And they keep your knees out of the mud and off the gravel. I've put a link below but they are available at most any hardware or garden store.
One of my other favorite easy mods is switching the electric retaining ring from the screw thread to a bayonet mount. This takes a careful alignment of threads to a five second push and twist.
Yes, the kneeling pads are good and with the assist handles even better. As far as the electric connection, I have decided on not getting the removable power cord for several reasons and instead I plan on installing an electrical port like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and with the additional rear hatch have easy access to both 30 and 15 amp hookups.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
As far as the electric connection, I have decided on not getting the removable power cord for several reasons and instead I plan on installing an electrical port like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and with the additional rear hatch have easy access to both 30 and 15 amp hookups.
Okay, so you'll use either the stock fixed 30-amp cable, or an ordinary 15-amp extension cord to this inlet... but how will you wire the two inlets together? Or is the 15-amp inlet only for something specific, and not to be connected to the rest of the trailer's electrical system?
If the 15-amp inlet and 30-amp cord are just connected in parallel, then whenever you are plugged in with one of them the other one will be live, which is a shock hazard. Connecting both to power sources at the same time would certainly be undesirable - it would even cause a 240 volt short circuit if the two sources were on opposite sides of a common split-phase power system.
The safe and convenient (but expensive) solution would be to add an automatic transfer switch, like the one used to switch between shore power and an inverter or between shore power and a built-in generator.
The cheapest but still safe solution would be to switch between the two sources with a double-throw switch. This is like an ordinary 3-way light switch, but you need 30 amp capacity on one side; switches like this are available, but usually packaged n a bulky and heavy box.
One solution that I have seen is a pair of circuit breakers - one for each source - mounted opposite each other and with their handles connected by a bar, so that it is not physically possible to turn both on at the same time. Here's a much higher-capacity (240 volt, 100 amp) version of this scheme: Generac 100-Amp 2,500-Watt Single Load Manual Transfer Switch This also provides a main breaker for the trailer sized for each inlet.
I plan on using a 15/30 amp adapter when using 15 amps like for storage over winter and using either 15 or 30 at the cg, depending on which service is working properly. I would never use both simultaneously.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
I plan on using a 15/30 amp adapter when using 15 amps like for storage over winter and using either 15 or 30 at the cg, depending on which service is working properly. I would never use both simultaneously.
So they would just be paralleled, and when you plug into the 15 amp outlet in the campground, the pins of the 30-amp shore power cable would be live? Similarly, then you plug into the 30 amp outlet in the campground, the pins of the 15-amp inlet would be live?
If it's just a matter of being able to plug into a 15-amp outlet when the site's 30-amp outlet is bad, why not just use that adapter with the stock shore power cord?
The pigtail on the adapter has a female where I plug in one of these and attach my 30 amp power cord. All of this occurs inside the hatch area, away from the elements. In effect I'm using as you suggested my 30 amp cord with an adapter. This allows me a longer combined cord if needed, a shorter 15 amp cord if needed, the original 30 amp cord if needed. All dependent upon my electrical needs and what and where it is available at the campsite.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
Confused. What I don't get is exactly where that port in your picture will be installed. Is it simply plugged into the standard factory port or does it replace it? If it replaces it isn't the 15 amp dongle now inside under the bed?
__________________ Myron "A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
I'm getting a 21 with an additional hatch in the rear, under the dinette, where the power cord is stored. I plan to install this adapter on the rear hatch where the power cord is stored inside. I can then either use the cord as designed or plug in the adapter for long term storage. I'm trying to eliminate the 30 amp opening where bugs and insects can crawl inside while in storage. If used while camping I'll put something around the 30 amp cord or use the 15 amp set up which is sealed on the outside.
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Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
Yes, the kneeling pads are good and with the assist handles even better. As far as the electric connection, I have decided on not getting the removable power cord for several reasons and instead I plan on installing an electrical port like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and with the additional rear hatch have easy access to both 30 and 15 amp hookups.
🤔 this looks like a short 15 a extension with a shielded male end. So it will be attached to trailer on the outside,with pigtail inside? Confused 😐