Stabilizer hex size

[StarvingHyena]

I don't have my trailer yet so I speak with apprehension. BUT .... in my shop when I need to lubricate a tool adjusting thread I use paraffin from a candle or from a block I bought in canning supplies from a grocery store: doesn't attract dust (sawdust) or other abrasives and is relatively waterproof (and cheap). Steel threads or tablesaw tops seem to like it and I have noticed its ability to "creap" under rust and displace it. Sometimes it can interfere with applications of certain finishes on wood after the boards have been run over tool surfaces but for applications on screw adjuster (like trailer leveling) paraffin would be my lubricant of choice.

[BillM]

I owned my last trailer 11 years. After 8 years i began carrying a cordless drill with a 3/4" drive socket. It made set up and take down a lot easier but I had Bal stabilizers not scissor style like the Escape. They may need more effort.

I have seen many trailer owners stack a pile of boards under their scissor jacks even on asphalt and concrete and had assumed this was to reduce the amount of cranking required but handling and placing the boards seemed like more trouble than a bit more cranking.

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by StarvingHyena

I don't have my trailer yet so I speak with apprehension. BUT .... in my shop when I need to lubricate a tool adjusting thread I use paraffin from a candle or from a block I bought in canning supplies from a grocery store: doesn't attract dust (sawdust) or other abrasives and is relatively waterproof (and cheap). Steel threads or tablesaw tops seem to like it and I have noticed its ability to "creap" under rust and displace it. Sometimes it can interfere with applications of certain finishes on wood after the boards have been run over tool surfaces but for applications on screw adjuster (like trailer leveling) paraffin would be my lubricant of choice.

A bar of inexpensive soap rubbed over the threads works well too.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Got any product names?

The can I have now is Jig-a-loo Silicone Dry. I have had the can for a few years now. On their site they do not seem to carry the same one, but do have a dry water repellant lubricant, probably the same thing in a new label. Readily available at the BORG or Crappy Tire.

Jig-A-Loo - invisible silicone-based lubricant and water-repellent!

[gbaglo]

I've got that stuff. Didn't know it was silicone-based.
Doesn't stink, like WD40.

[Jim Bennett]

A good silicone based lube was a necessity with my Coleman tent trailer, as the slides were aluminum. Works great on anything where you don't want any residue.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by BillM

not scissor style like the Escape. They may need more effort.

I think for some folks, it's not the effort required to turn the crank so much as having to bend down while cranking.

Like the paraffin wax idea. Just found several blocks of it cleaning up my storage room.

Ron

[sunrisetrucker]

Originally Posted by ice-breaker

A guy with a Lance pulled into the spot beside us in Banff on the weekend and proceeded to lower his electric stabilizers. Very loud! Sounded like someone was doing construction work in the trailer next door. I joked with my wife that he was probably hanging drywall.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

We had the same thing at the Roots and Blues Festival in Salmon Arm a couple weeks ago. What a racket, sounded like a jackhammer.

I'd rather listen to a couple of minutes of that than all the generators we had to listen to for hours on end, on our last visit to a BC provincial campground.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker

I'd rather listen to a couple of minutes of that than all the generators we had to listen to for hours on end, on our last visit to a BC provincial campground.

Yes that is very annoying. Good thing about the Escape with double pane glass, extra insulation and spray foam is that it really helps to muffle outside noise and allows you to spend quiet time in your trailer, even with noisy neighbours nearby.

[Thane]

I use a cordless drill and also take a work light that uses the same battery. The kids like to help set up the trailer and the worklight is a great flashlight.

[Daubsy]

I always bring my cordless drill with me so it's not a burden. I like the hex driver for a few reasons. It's fast, and you can set the dial on the drill to provide even torque on all stabilizers. I often worried that I might be applying uneven or excessive force with the manual driver, which can cause stress fractures in the fiberglass.

[Jim Bennett]

I would be willing to bet you would save no more than 10 seconds over the provided speed wrench (for all 4 stabilizers), plus there really is no chance of over tightening, unless you really forced it. But that said, definitely give it a try, your experience might be different than mine was.

[T&R]

How about something like this as a lubricant? Convenience of a spray but dries to not attract dirt. If I remember to pack mine I'll take it with me next week for our pick up trip.

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - DRY Lube with Teflon® fluoropolymer

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Daubsy

I often worried that I might be applying uneven or excessive force with the manual driver, which can cause stress fractures in the fiberglass.

We have opposite views on that. Even on the few times that I've used my cordless drill it's only been to get them close to the ground. I then use the hand crank to put a moderate amount of pressure on them. I feel that I can more accurately judge the amount of force than the drill can. But, whatever works for ya

Ron

[santacruzer]

If you do use an electric drill, be certain your hex drive is the correct size, not a size too large, and you don't have the drill setting too high. Constant high impact using a too large hex drive will round the hex nut, not good.

[memobug]

I bought this drive socket on amazon prime for under 8 bucks, delivered. There is actually a Camco one on the same Prine page for under $7 but it doesn't appear to have the screwdriver friendly detention in the shaft.

Quick Products (QPLSJS) Deluxe Scissor Jack Leveling Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N0IHMXM..._Eta6vb9WP00GB

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by T&R

How about something like this as a lubricant? Convenience of a spray but dries to not attract dirt. If I remember to pack mine I'll take it with me next week for our pick up trip.

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - DRY Lube with Teflon® fluoropolymer

I'm going to get some of this stuff for the awning arms.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Daubsy

I always bring my cordless drill with me so it's not a burden. I like the hex driver for a few reasons. It's fast, and you can set the dial on the drill to provide even torque on all stabilizers. I often worried that I might be applying uneven or excessive force with the manual driver, which can cause stress fractures in the fiberglass.

I also bring a cordless drill with me but for other reasons. And Camping World sells a bit with the 3/4-inch socket for the purpose of operating the stabilizing jacks. Rule of thumb is to make contact with ground/pad and then go 1/4 additional turn. They are not intended for lifting; they are intended to take out some of the bounce and the danger of a smaller trailer tilting if all occupants are at the back end. They are stabilizers, not jacks.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I would be willing to bet you would save no more than 10 seconds over the provided speed wrench (for all 4 stabilizers), plus there really is no chance of over tightening, unless you really forced it. But that said, definitely give it a try, your experience might be different than mine was.

Agree with you Jim. The time savings is negligible, and one literary has better "feel" with the manual wrench than with a drill.

[fudge_brownie]

How about something like this as a lubricant? Convenience of a spray but dries to not attract dirt. If I remember to pack mine I'll take it with me next week for our pick up trip.

Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products - DRY Lube with Teflon® fluoropolymer

I have used this product on bicycle chains in the past. Like almost all such products this will wash off with tire spray. I do not think it has the holding power for use on the jacks. Now on the awning arms this has more possibilities, however the formulation of a lubricant for a bike chain and associated links is very different than what might be needed on the sliding of an arm.

There are probably better choices. As a lube for bikes however it is an excellent choice.

[Jim Bennett]

I too use a silicone based lube for the chains on my bikes. I do this after every hard ride.

Something to remember to do before and lube is used, is to thoroughly clean whatever you are lubing first, to remove any contaminants in the moving parts. Too often I have seen folks just spraying lube on to work the joint free and make it move easier, only to have their fix fail sooner.