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09-30-2017, 03:11 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: 2012 17B
Posts: 120
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Surge protector not even lighting up
I am/was loaning the trailer to a family to camp for a week. They are picking it up this afternoon. Trailer not plugged in, i used the inverter for the first time, then decided to plug in instead. Powered off the inverter, plugged the trailer in. There is no power to the trailer and the surge protector doesn't even light up. There is power to the plug. I hear a noise when i plug in. I checked all the circuit breakers in the fuse box. Is there another breaker connected to the surge protector? Is there a way to bypass the Protector?
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09-30-2017, 03:26 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: western side, Montana
Trailer: 2014 escape 21
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sally P
I am/was loaning the trailer to a family to camp for a week. They are picking it up this afternoon. Trailer not plugged in, i used the inverter for the first time, then decided to plug in instead. Powered off the inverter, plugged the trailer in. There is no power to the trailer and the surge protector doesn't even light up. There is power to the plug. I hear a noise when i plug in. I checked all the circuit breakers in the fuse box. Is there another breaker connected to the surge protector? Is there a way to bypass the Protector?
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It does take a few minutes for everything to kick in.
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09-30-2017, 03:28 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: 2012 17B
Posts: 120
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Yes, but it needs to light up to show it is testing the connection. Not happening. Been an hour.
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09-30-2017, 03:35 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Durham, North Carolina
Trailer: Escape 1721
Posts: 223
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Locate the black surge protector box (likely under the seat) and check the gray cable which has an end like one you would connect into a wall telephone. I've found that mine comes loose on occasion. Remove the connection and reconnect. It should work again as the display should light up.
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09-30-2017, 04:02 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: 2012 17B
Posts: 120
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Unplugged it, waited a bit, repluged it. No such luck. I have a feeling something's wrong with the surge protector itself. Feel so bad, no RV places open on Sat afternoon and this was going to be the big vacation for my gardener and his family. Solar and batteries are fine so they can cope, I hope. Just don't know if they will be able to conserve the energy.
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09-30-2017, 04:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: 2012 17B
Posts: 120
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Oh, and i have that generator I've never used. Feel better.
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09-30-2017, 04:51 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sally P
Oh, and i have that generator I've never used. Feel better.
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Don't you plug the trailer into the generator? They will still need the surge protector to work, so it would still be good to find the problem. It should be the first device after the power cord, so I wouldn't suspect a transfer switch, main breaker, converter, etc.
When you are plugged in, do any of the AC devices (microwave, 120V receptacles, etc work? If so, it is just the display that isn't working - as Michael (rotateclockwise) suggested, check the plugs at both ends of the remote wiring.
If none of the AC stuff works, I agree that the surge protector has a problem. While probably a job for an electrician, it is possible to jump past the surge protector.
Br sure to unplug the trailer when checking the wiring to the surge protector...
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09-30-2017, 04:55 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Since you have a 17B and the battery is on the rear bumper, you might be able to use your generator to charge the battery direct. My Honda generator can be connected to the battery terminals with the supplied cord.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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09-30-2017, 05:02 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: 2012 17B
Posts: 120
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Give me a giant 'Duh' about the generator. I have dual 6 volts, don't think there is a way to connect the generator to the terminals. There is no electric in the trailer, not just a lack of display. But I spoke to my friends and they will cope. It is scheduled to be fairly sunny and the solar should take care of things. When they come back i will take it into an RV place. Sure am grateful to this forum.
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09-30-2017, 05:14 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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I'm guessing the fridge won't work either then, and they'll need a cooler and ice. No water pump? No flushing toilet. It all can be done and still be fairly comfortable. Good luck.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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09-30-2017, 05:23 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2017 5.0TA
Posts: 253
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You didn't trip the GFI in your garage did you? We have one under our back porch that shuts off the garage plugs.
__________________
Peg and Bob
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09-30-2017, 05:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ponoka, Alberta
Trailer: 2016 19 classic "outta sight", jeep rubicon unlimited
Posts: 1,645
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Is your battery switch in the "ON" position?
The solar should be able to take care of the water pump, toilet, lights, fan, etc.
Fridge can be on propane.
__________________
"never lose hope, never lose faith"
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09-30-2017, 05:47 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: 2012 17B
Posts: 120
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Fridge on gas, water pump on solar. No problem.
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09-30-2017, 05:53 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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If you have the Progressive Industries HW30, which is what ETI put in my 2014.
When you 1st connect you should hear the relay in the surge protector click closed, sometimes it has a slight hum. I had one that chattered pretty bad and would not make enough contact to work. Talked to Progressive, who had me take open the unit and blow out the relay, thinking there was crap in it. Ended up where they sent me a new relay that I installed. I had to send back the original.
Not that you have time to do this if it's the case.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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09-30-2017, 05:55 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
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Surge protector not even lighting up
Sally if you take the outside fridge panel off you’ll see a 110 volt plug plugged into a receptacle, you could pull the plug and plug it into an extension cord which could be plugged directly into the power.
Cheers
Doug
__________________
Cheers
Doug
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09-30-2017, 06:22 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
Since you have a 17B and the battery is on the rear bumper, you might be able to use your generator to charge the battery direct. My Honda generator can be connected to the battery terminals with the supplied cord.
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Good point. It's not a sophisticated charger, but if you have the correct cord it works...
Even if the generator does not have a 12-volt charging output (not all do, not even all Honda models), a common battery charger (as used to charge car batteries) can be plugged into the generator, and used to charge the trailer's battery or batteries.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sally P
I have dual 6 volts, don't think there is a way to connect the generator to the terminals.
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There is a way to connect a generator's 12 volt output, or a battery charger output. For this purpose, the dual 6 volt battery setup is no different from the single 12 volt battery setup: in the dual 6 V setup the charger cables would go to the positive terminal of one battery (where the fused cables go to the trailer's systems) and the negative terminal of the other battery (where the "ground" cables are attached).
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09-30-2017, 07:07 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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The problem, I think, is that the six volt batteries are located either side of the spare tire, so you need enough cable. Got jumper cables, by chance? That might give you the length you need.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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09-30-2017, 07:33 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Coast, Florida
Trailer: None now
Posts: 1,266
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If this is the HW30 if I remember right the manual mentions you can bypass the computer if it is dead so you can get power into the trailer. I think you had to open the box. Hopefully you have the manual so you can look for how to bypass it.
On the newer ones you simply flip a switch on the display to bypass it.
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09-30-2017, 07:56 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: West Coast, Florida
Trailer: None now
Posts: 1,266
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Now I remember why I remembered that. I looked all over and finally found the manual online. It mentions moving a blue wire but never said said to where. Maybe when you open the box it shows you. I never tried it but remembered that odd instruction for some reason.
If you do not have it here is the manual.
https://www.rvsafety.net/Manuals/EMS-LCHW30.pdf
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09-30-2017, 10:01 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marry
Is your battery switch in the "ON" position?
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A good question, and I haven't seen an answer.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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