The last 1/2" heater challenge - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-29-2016, 06:52 PM   #1
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The last 1/2" heater challenge

Josie had reported that we had success with the heater. She was a bit premature in giving her update. The furnace works fine but it is hanging up on something or just being difficult to get it in the last 1/2". Any tricks or advice would be appreciated. Every thing seem to be lined up at this point the exhaust pipe from the unit is started into the outer exhaust and can be seen through the outer plate when you look inside. The tin box seems to be started also. The furnace seem to be hung up or the connection is just very tight.
Craig
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:05 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by 2yax2go View Post
Josie had reported that we had success with the heater. She was a bit premature in giving her update. The furnace works fine but it is hanging up on something or just being difficult to get it in the last 1/2". Any tricks or advice would be appreciated. Every thing seem to be lined up at this point the exhaust pipe from the unit is started into the outer exhaust and can be seen through the outer plate when you look inside. The tin box seems to be started also. The furnace seem to be hung up or the connection is just very tight.
Craig
Last time I replaced a furnace I wound up removing the outside plate, loosely seating the furnace body, then reinstalling the plate, cause you can do "percussion adjustments" on the plate to get it to fully seat. Just use a piece of wood to protect the plate.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:16 PM   #3
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Thanks, I was hoping not to have to remove the outer vent but that might be only way.
Craig
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:40 PM   #4
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Last time I replaced a furnace I wound up removing the outside plate, loosely seating the furnace body, then reinstalling the plate, cause you can do "percussion adjustments" on the plate to get it to fully seat. Just use a piece of wood to protect the plate.
Had the furnace out for some better access for wire routing and could not get it back in for the life of me. Pushed so hard it pulled one of the rivets through the fiberglass on the vent. So the decision was easy....remove the vent completely, seat the furnace and reinstall the vent. I recall it being a very exact and tight fit. Makes sense since you want the combustion gases leaving the trailer.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:44 PM   #5
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Is this a likely scenario for anyone replacing a sail switch?
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:20 PM   #6
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Is this a likely scenario for anyone replacing a sail switch?
Depends on how big your hands are and how good your eyesight it. As I recall, the sail switch is a tiny microswitch held in place by two tiny screws in a stamped piece of sheet metal. At the very least I would have a good magnet handy.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:24 PM   #7
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Have a spare sail switch and it isn't that small, just wondering what is involved in swapping it out. Can't find a YouTube for that.
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:05 AM   #8
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The first step is to remove the 12 volt fuse and then unhook the gas line. The second step is to remove the furnace from the opening a small pry bar helps. Once the furnace is about 1 1/2" out you then have to deal with the power and thermostat wires. The wires can be disconnected from the furnace with a lot of trouble. l took the easy way and snipped the wires on the outside of the furnace.

Once these wires have been taken care of you can continue to pull the furnace out of the opening. The next step is to remove the blowers and attached sheet metal from the right side of the furnace. Then are two screws one on the top and one on the bottom. It is not necessary to remove the round cover over the blowers.

Once removed you can see the sail switch inside the blower cavity towards the front. You will then need to disconnect the two wires that run to it. The sail switch has two small sheet metal screws holding it in place. Now that the new switch is in place just reverse the steps to putting the furnace back in place.

Now as you slide the unit into position you will need to deal with the three wires you cut earlier. The easiest way is with shielded crimp connectors that can be taken apart the next time the furnace needs to be pulled out. On our 21' trailer with the furnace under the right rear seat makes things a little easier than other installations.

The last 1/2" is the hardest part of the job getting the flue pipes to lineup is a a bit of a challenge but not terrible, but to get it seated all the way in is tough. As suggested removing the outside vent cover seems to be the answer. So remove the exterior vent cover then go back inside and finish installing the furnace and the two screws that hold it place.

Now that the furnace is back in, hook up the propane and reinstall the 12 volt fuse. Almost done, go back outside and reinstall the vent cover and make sure the vent flue is lined up with a little pressure and maybe a couple of taps with a hammer and block of wood over the vent face to protect it you might almost be done. Insert new pop rivets as needed and the outside is complete.

Now go back inside and test the furnace. If it starts and blows heat you're done. If no heat, sit down have a beer and send the forum a note and maybe someone will have another idea.

The job of replacing the sail switch is pretty easy except for the first 1 1/2" and the last 1/2" putting it back together.

Craig
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:25 AM   #9
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"The last 1/2" is the hardest part of the job getting the flue pipes to lineup is a a bit of a challenge but not terrible, but to get it seated all the way in is tough."

You can say that again. I couldn't do it and gave up. Never thought to remove the outside vent. Will have to go out there today and check out how to do that.
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File Type: jpg furn2.jpg (86.7 KB, 15 views)
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:52 AM   #10
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Well, thinking now drilling out two perfectly good, solid rivets is not a good idea..
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