tongue coupler problem

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Now a good link. How much to have the new coupler installed?

I have friends who are welders so my costs will be considerable different than yours. Full replacement by the welder took about an hour

Consideration on installing a Bulldog as a replacement:

• Cutting the original coupler off is easy with a side grinder, just make sure you only cut the weld and into the original coupler, DO NOT grind into the frame

• The tongue jack will be relocated rearward slightly so the lower brace for the tongue jack will need to be modified

• The Bulldog coupler is slightly longer so any weight distribution hitch may need adjusting. On my Anderson hitch this was simply a matter of adjusting the chain length

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Another thing to try before drastic action is taken re: spending money for a new coupler

Congealed grease can stop things from moving smoothly. I'd try a little heat from a torch, not cherry red heat like on a rusted nut, but make it pretty warm and tap away. Always nice to avoid expenses if it can be avoided.

Ron

I agree Ron, in my case the hitch was less than 2 years old and jamming due to poor manufacturing. This problem became very frustrating when hooking up at a campground where tools and equipment are limited (re: big hammer). I probably could have made it work better but that would take time and I would still have a questionable quality coupling. I decided to invest in a long term solution. Last summer towing over 15,000 km hooking & unhooking over 60 times the Bulldog performed flawlessly

A side note: with the Bulldog coupler you need to be more accurate when aligning the ball with the coupler during hookup. There is no "ramp" on the coupler when you lower the trailer onto the ball. I didn't find this an issue but it was mentioned by some Oliver owners who use this coupler.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Couplers do wear out and in the realm of good, better, best- the RAM is barely good IMO. Maybe PM Rbryan and ask him why he changed to a bulldog.

on your good/better/best scale, the cheap common couplers would barely be good, I'd consider these atwood clones 'better', and the bulldogs 'best', and yes, if my atwood clone ever gives me grief, I'll have a trailer shop replace it with a bulldog.

[MyronL]

Your way was the right way, Ron and Eddie. Got out my 24 pounder and gave that coupler three carefully aimed, lovely but firm taps, right there. Frankly, I had my doubts. But it turns out that though the coupler hinge thing may be thick it is a lot softer metal than I expected. It folded like a cheap suit.

As seen here, I then removed all that ugly white tape around it and cleaned things up for a nice fresh new coat of paint.

Our pork roll party at the Big Q ? No longer in jeopardy.

[h2owmn]

I was more worried about your trailer departing your tv somewhere along the road, but I am glad I still may have a chance at pork roll.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Your way was the right way, Ron and Eddie. Got out my 24 pounder and gave that coupler three...
Our pork roll party at the Big Q ? No longer in jeopardy.

Whew! I was watching the pork roll and spam thread... then began to worry when I saw this!

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Feel free to PM me if you get stuck on a trailer problem before a big trip. I'm a little ways up the road. We can put our heads together and figure it out providing I can get away...

[Ron in BC]

24 pounder That's a serious tap. Glad that it worked out OK. I carry a 16 oz. hammer under the truck seat. Comes in handy sometimes.

Ron

[MyronL]

Thanks, Merl, I appreciate that. I didn't know anyone was that close to us. One thing about this little drama I also learned was how poorly prepared I was for this issue if it had happened out on the dusty trails someplace.

I will now be keeping a length of thin braided cable with cable clamps in the tongue box, and small crow bar, etc etc, so I have recourse should that coupler ever jump the ball en route and get ground down by pavement when nested in the safety chains. Got to be prepared for anything out there.

[elongest]

Myron
Add a big flat blade screwdriver to your tool list. I have several of these type hitches on my equipment trailers. If you try to unhitch with the trailer/ shoe pushing against the ball that puts pressure against the horse shoe and makes it difficult to lift. Instead of pulling up with the latch I pry the horseshoe up with a flat blade screw driver. Pulling up with the latch may be what bent the latch post. It should not be that way but that is about the only thing that would explain the latch post being bent forward except for something catching on the latch and pulling it forward. I think I may replace my hitch with a Bulldog hitch as suggested by others.
Eddie

[Rossue]

Even with my "real" Atwood coupler I have to use the large wooden handled flathead from time to time- first push the handle under the latch and pry up with the handle end, and then pry up the yoke with the flathead end. It really helps to lift the yoke before backing uphill AND spraying silicone on the yoke area so it slides more easily.

That is why I would go to a Bulldog next time.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Thanks, Merl, I appreciate that. I didn't know anyone was that close to us. One thing about this little drama I also learned was how poorly prepared I was for this issue if it had happened out on the dusty trails someplace.

I will now be keeping a length of thin braided cable with cable clamps in the tongue box, and small crow bar, etc etc, so I have recourse should that coupler ever jump the ball en route and get ground down by pavement when nested in the safety chains. Got to be prepared for anything out there.

Yup, saw your location and thought I'd keep a lookout for your rig when we visit the Edgewood Walmart. If you see someone waving across the fields, might be me.

I'm unprepared when traveling... been lucky but need to carry some tools. Will add a big screwdriver to go with my hammer. BTW, I've dealt with those hitches using a big screwdriver like Eddie (elongest) suggested except I've tapped the swing pin forward and backward on the side that looked like it was binding. I think they get dirt/sand between the parts which binds things up.

[ColoradoSwany]

I keep one of these little guys in our tv for plastic hubcaps AND to use to get hitch undone (instead of a large flat blade screwdriver). Usually works like a charm

[cpaharley2008]

A modern day crow bar.....

[oldwave]

The pry bar and marine grade grease works for us

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

A modern day crow bar.....

nail puller, really.

I carry one that I took my dremel to, and opened up the V notches so they'd fit those big 'nail' tent spikes... makes pulling them out of hard clay much much easier. I use the spikes to secure my 10x10 popup, shade tarps, etc.

[Mountain_gal]

The video made the operation of the Bulldog look like it takes quite a bit of force and grip strength. Is that true?

[Rrgramps]

I have that same coupler. It always binds up, and cannot hookup or unhook without rocking my vehicle. It’s been that way ever since I picked it up in April 2019.

Every time. I line up perfectly, lower the tongue jack, and the thing lodges partway on the ball, which is dead center and aligned. Bail cannot be properly lowered until I get into my truck and rock it forward and reverse a few times. Or more. Same thing when I uncouple. Sometimes I have to get my wife to spot me. Usually though, I hear the thud, signifying that it’s seated and ready to lock the bail.

A perpetual and routine ritual.

[Rossue]

Hopefully the New ETI is taking notice of these complaints and begins offering a coupler upgrade option. Doing it upfront is 10 times easier and cost-effective vs. doing it later. Cost $300 labor to replace my RAM. A Bulldog A-Frame mount or Curt equivalent is less than $70 U.S. on Amazon.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Rrgramps

Every time. I line up perfectly, lower the tongue jack, and the thing lodges partway on the ball, which is dead center and aligned. Bail cannot be properly lowered until I get into my truck and rock it forward and reverse a few times

You might try making a small change in your ritual. Position the front of the coupler, not dead center, but with the front edge slightly onto the ball. As you lower the tongue it drops down OK and seems to prevent what's happening to you.

Ron

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

You might try making a small change in your ritual. Position the front of the coupler, not dead center, but with the front edge slightly onto the ball. As you lower the tongue it drops down OK and seems to prevent what's happening to you.

Ron

This the way I try to do it, it actually pulls the trailer forward.

[Patandlinda]

Although have wished for a better coupler ..... have learned to do as Ron has suggested and just not be completely under the ball center but a little ahead and when trailer is lowered the hitch just goes down where it closes. Pat