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12-10-2018, 11:22 AM
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#41
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Monterey, Tennessee
Trailer: 2019 Escape 17B
Posts: 34
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cpaharley,
Thanks for the info.
I'm think'n I'm SAFE.
I only have 9" of draw bar sticking out of the receiver.
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12-10-2018, 11:43 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lostpond
cpaharley,
Thanks for the info.
I'm think'n I'm SAFE.
I only have 9" of draw bar sticking out of the receiver.
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Distance is from the hole in the rear to the ball, so you maybe at 11" already because the hole is at least 2" back from the from of the receiver. Take the draw bar out and measure that distance.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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12-10-2018, 11:51 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sherburne, New York
Trailer: 2016 21 ft escape
Posts: 400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkirk
I replaced my draw bar with one two inches longer than stock. Not only does the tailgate open now, but the chance of the trailer storage box hitting the truck rear lights on sharp turns is reduced (don't ask).
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. Been there done that. Makes quite a crunch doesn’t it.
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12-10-2018, 11:51 AM
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#44
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Monterey, Tennessee
Trailer: 2019 Escape 17B
Posts: 34
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Refer to post #34
gary
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12-10-2018, 02:52 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake930
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Me too ! Pat
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12-10-2018, 02:56 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkirk
I replaced my draw bar with one two inches longer than stock. Not only does the tailgate open now, but the chance of the trailer storage box hitting the truck rear lights on sharp turns is reduced (don't ask). No change to the way the trailer feels under tow. Extended tow bar is rated 6000# tow and 600# pin weight. Safe enough for a 19.
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Expensive lesson learned . Also had to fix one side of fiberglass box . What can I say I was tired and not paying attention . Hopefully won't do that again . Pat
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12-10-2018, 03:42 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sherburne, New York
Trailer: 2016 21 ft escape
Posts: 400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Expensive lesson learned . Also had to fix one side of fiberglass box . What can I say I was tired and not paying attention . Hopefully won't do that again . Pat
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Boy I got off easy! No damage to the storage box, but still going to cost me 159.00 for the tail light unit. Only 1500 miles on the truck. Wife just gave me the look and the tsk, tsk, thing.
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12-10-2018, 04:11 PM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake930
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Yup I hear you about the cost of your taillight . For some reason that same taillight I was able to get a Ford OEM light for 125, a accident before . But because I needed fiberglass supplies went with the Chinese knock off for 25,00 . My truck is a oldie but goodie .I can tell you that box is strong . Had to fix the lid and even though the side crack didn't go through all the way . I laid cloth and fiberglass inside to strengthen anyway . If my truck was new I'd spring for the new light myself too. You don't want to hit that box Pat
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12-23-2018, 09:24 PM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Signal Mountain (Chattanooga), Tennessee
Trailer: Escape 21 November 2014; 2022 GMC 1500 3.0L
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpiano
One way to eliminate the jack handle is to replace it with a 5” x 1/2 hex bolt. I use an 18V battery drill fitted with a 5/8” socket, which works on the hex bolt and stabilizers, eliminating the tedious hand cranking. I keep a 12V battery charger in the camper to keep the drill topped up.
Replacing the crank is simple:
Pop the top off the jack,
pry off the retaining spring
drive out the lock pin
slide the crank out, leaving the cog in place
cut threads off the hex bolt
drill hole in bolt for the lock pin
Insert the bolt and reassemble
Voila! you have an automatic tongue jack.
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I just did the mod that dpiano describes. It didn't take that long.
I can describe in more detail if anyone else wants to try it. If I don't like it, I can re-install the regular crank.
I've been using a Dewalt 20v drill (not a noisy impact driver) on the stabilizers for a while, and now it runs the tongue jack, too.
I also had a dent in the tailgate that I recently had fixed, so we now have clearance.
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12-23-2018, 09:29 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill and Earline
if anyone else wants to try it. If I don't like it, I can re-install the regular crank.
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Exactly what I did and undid last year.
Ron
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