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09-21-2018, 05:55 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 Escape 21
Posts: 699
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Tongue jack sticking
I have a 2015 Escape 21 and just recently the tongue jack began getting very hard to turn. In fact now it is almost impossible to raise. I haven't hit the jack on anything either. After searching the forum for a solution (could not find one) I am asking if anyone with a similar tongue jack has had a similar problem and lubricated their jack? I gather that ETI now uses tongue jacks with a grease nipple on the backside. I did not see one unless it is under the silver cap.
Thanks in advance,
Bob K
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09-21-2018, 07:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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I made an adaptor shaft so I could use my electric drill. Didn't like it and switched back.
Basically it's a metal on metal under load and without grease it's going to get harder and harder to turn until it galls up.
Pull the pin, take the shaft out and lube it up. Should be trouble free for a long while.
Ron
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09-23-2018, 12:31 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 Escape 21
Posts: 699
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Thanks for the help, Ron. I haven't been able to get out and work on it yet due to RAIN, RAIN, RAIN!
Bob K
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09-23-2018, 12:54 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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No kidding about the rain and, living at the base of a mountain, I think we got even more over here.
Your bottom photo shows most of the problem. The front side of shaft has a minimal bushing but the rear part of the shaft just passes through a drilled hole. No bearing or bushing, just the edge of the hole. In time, running dry, metal on metal, but it will also wear the hole edges and shaft. It could get so sloppy that the gear jumps teeth.
Sun is on its way.
Ron
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09-23-2018, 05:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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The one on our 2013 model is getting hard to crank, but only for part if its travel. I pulled that top cap off while on our last trip and did what I could to lube the gears and "bearings" in that upper area, but I think the issue in ours is dry threads on the jack screw inside. I plan to pull it off and see if I can get it apart enough to lube the threads.
I considered just switching it out for an electric one, but after reading reviews on Amazon for what I believe is the one ETI installs, I think I'll keep cranking for as long as I can.
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09-23-2018, 06:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
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Definitely also cleaning and lubing the lead screw would be a good idea.
I bought an electric one, probably rated way too high. Held it up to the trailer and thought that it was way overkill for what's needed. I decided that when it's properly lubed up it's not really that big a deal to give it a few cranks by hand.
Ron
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09-23-2018, 10:52 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19'
Posts: 264
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The jack on my trailer (same jack as yours) got stiff to crank, and I contacted ETI for lube advice. They said to take the cap off and lube the crank gear, did not say anything about the threaded shaft inside. Eventually my jack failed and I got the newer jack with grease nipple from ETI.
The newer jack has a lower gear ratio (more turns per inch of lift), so cranks easier, but more turns for the same lift. Takes longer than with the old jack.
I recall looking at YouTube videos showing how to disassemble and lube a jack, unfortunately I looked for them after my old jack died. I think you need to support the trailer tongue, then remove the jack from the trailer so you can pull the shaft out.
__________________
Kirk & Shelley
2014 19'
Surrey, Beautiful BC, Canada
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09-24-2018, 02:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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I just took ours apart, which turns out to be pretty simple. I let the tongue down on a couple of jack stands and removed the three screws that hold it on. On the bench, I figured out the jack wouldn't crank apart (which is probably a good thing) so I removed the top cover to expose the gears. The gear on the crank shaft is held by a press fit pin (the one with knurling around it). The pin is also restrained by a circlip that was easy to move to the side. So the circlip gets peeled off to the side, then the pin can be tapped out with a punch. With the pin out of the crank, it all comes apart with no more tools required. In our case, the main screw is coated with dried out, dust-filled grease that is probably worse than nothing. Tomorrow, I'll degrease everything, apply fresh grease, and re-assemble. Not really a bad job after five years of service. Photos attached.
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09-24-2018, 03:01 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker
I considered just switching it out for an electric one, but after reading reviews on Amazon for what I believe is the one ETI installs, I think I'll keep cranking for as long as I can.
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The manual jack is a good workout. Not sure what ETI installs currently, but if one were considering a change to a power tongue jack they'd be wise to have the Barker 3500 on the list.
https://www.barkermfg.com/vip-3500.html
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09-24-2018, 03:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB
... I think you need to support the trailer tongue...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker
I let the tongue down on a couple of jack stands ...
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Jackstands under each side of the tongue work well, but you could also just lower the front stabilizers until they touch ground (don't try to lift with them, then retract the tongue jack enough to lift the foot off the ground. The front jacks have far more capacity than required, and the trailer will be stable and well-supported.
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09-24-2018, 03:29 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 Escape 21
Posts: 699
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Thanks for the photos Parker. I should have checked earlier today before attempting the repair. I just took my jack apart and after cleaning a lot of grit and gunk off the parts, lubricated the threaded rod, bearings, etc. The only problem is I can't get the final pin into its hole in the crank shaft to complete the reassembly. I am DONE with this jack. Can anyone recommend a better built one that they have experience with? I don't want to go to electric.
Thank,
Bob K
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09-24-2018, 03:36 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
Jackstands under each side of the tongue work well, but you could also just lower the front stabilizers until they touch ground (don't try to lift with them, then retract the tongue jack enough to lift the foot off the ground. The front jacks have far more capacity than required, and the trailer will be stable and well-supported.
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I'll leave that to you, Brian. I've never been comfortable using the stabilizers to support that much weight. ETI cautioned when we picked up our 19 not to use them to level the trailer, but they could, in an emergency, be used to change a tire. I'd be wary of that, myself. I understand you're not suggesting to use them as jacks, but just to hold the trailer at its current height. Still, my trusty old jack stands placed up near the hitch just feel much better to me. I've trusted them hundreds, maybe thousands, of times for rolling under cars on a creeper....I'd never ever trust the stabilizers for that.
Another way to do this of course, is to have the trailer hitched to the tow vehicle while servicing the jack.
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09-24-2018, 03:52 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbito
Thanks for the photos Parker. I should have checked earlier today before attempting the repair. I just took my jack apart and after cleaning a lot of grit and gunk off the parts, lubricated the threaded rod, bearings, etc. The only problem is I can't get the final pin into its hole in the crank shaft to complete the reassembly. I am DONE with this jack. Can anyone recommend a better built one that they have experience with? I don't want to go to electric.
Thank,
Bob K
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Hi Bob. I think that pin may be tapered. Check the orientation relative to the hole in the crank, trying both sides of the crank and both ends of the pin. Good luck.
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09-24-2018, 04:21 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
The manual jack is a good workout. Not sure what ETI installs currently, but if one were considering a change to a power tongue jack they'd be wise to have the Barker 3500 on the list.
https://www.barkermfg.com/vip-3500.html
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Yup what we bought . The white and so glad we did ! Pat
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09-24-2018, 08:01 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker
I've never been comfortable using the stabilizers to support that much weight.
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They're rated for at least 4,000 pounds (static load) each, and there are two of them to support a few hundred pounds. I would be comfortable with that, but everyone makes their own decisions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker
ETI cautioned when we picked up our 19 not to use them to level the trailer, but they could, in an emergency, be used to change a tire. I'd be wary of that, myself. I understand you're not suggesting to use them as jacks, but just to hold the trailer at its current height.
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Right - no raising the trailer with stabilizers. They are not built for the screw to be turned while under significant load.
Jack stands are the obvious solution, but common home garage stands don't have any more capacity than the stabilizers, and are not securely fastened to the trailer. As long as they have a suitable saddle top wide enough to hold the tongue frame rail (not just a flat top), jack stands are a good choice.
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09-24-2018, 08:32 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Hi Brian,
I think we're in violent agreement. Technically, you're right, but I'm more comfortable with the jack stands right under the tongue where I'm working as opposed to the stabilizers back under the body, and there is only one moving part on the stands. But not everyone has high quality automotive jack stands.
Parker
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09-24-2018, 09:07 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbito
I am DONE with this jack. Can anyone recommend a better built one that they have experience with? I don't want to go to electric.
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I have more experience with jacks on boat and utility trailers in general, but I would consider BAL. Same company that makes the stabilizers ETI uses.
BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry
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09-25-2018, 01:11 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Surrey, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 Escape 21
Posts: 699
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Thanks for the advice.
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09-25-2018, 12:42 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Cleaned, lubed, and reassembled mine today. I plan to reinstall it tomorrow. I'm curious to see how it works under load. It definitely works much better on the bench, but the screw shows a little wear. Next time it starts getting hard to crank, I'll probably just replace it. Whether manual or electric, it will just be a matter of how I feel at the time.
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09-25-2018, 01:11 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
Trailer: 2015 19 foot
Posts: 439
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After reading this, I checked my jack on my Escape 19 2015 and found it had a zerk fitting, so I added some grease and also oiled the ends of the crank. It turns much easier now. This posting may have saved me some real problem later. Thanks.
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