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Old 05-31-2016, 12:03 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post
Now its on the side it seems it may fall out at any moment . But I don't know if the brakes will lock if this occurs .
Unplugging by itself can't cause the brakes to be applied.

It is possible that a dragging cable could short the brake wire to the power wire, applying the brakes. This is presumably what happened to Glenn; although in his case his power wire was still powered by the tug, if the cable were unplugged from the tug the power wire would still be connected to the trailer battery so the same thing could happen.
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Old 05-31-2016, 12:56 AM   #12
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It's 2016 and I'm amazed there is still not a dependable, secure locking 7-pin receptacle for tow vehicles. What the hell?


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Old 05-31-2016, 01:10 AM   #13
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It's 2016 and I'm amazed there is still not a dependable, secure locking 7-pin receptacle for tow vehicles. What the hell?
The RV-style 7-pin or blade connector has been around for decades, and has become a defacto industry standard; our 37-year-old Boler has the same connector. The consistent and common use of one design is good, because it means that tow vehicles and trailers can be interchangeable. The unfortunate aspect of any unchanging standard is that it does not advance to better designs.

If you are willing to have a trailer which doesn't work with anyone else's tow vehicle and a tow vehicle which is not set up for anyone else's trailer - or you are willing to use adapters - there are better designs. One that I find interesting is the EZ Connector, which is held in place magnetically (and O-ring sealed)... although the wires are not large enough and I'm not sold on non-wiping contacts.

I certainly wouldn't consider the other 7-pin (the standard commercial trailer connection) to be an improvement. It has no locking feature, no advantage that I know of, and less current capacity.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:43 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Daubsy View Post
It's 2016 and I'm amazed there is still not a dependable, secure locking 7-pin receptacle for tow vehicles. What the hell?


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Or at least a clip on both sides to keep the plug from falling off .
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:41 AM   #15
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There are two problems. The cable dragging on the road was caused apparently by a broken cable tie that secured it to the trailer frame. And I agree that the brakes were applied simply because I was running with the lights on, and one of the bare hot wires must have touched the blue brake wire.

The internet is full of reports of Ford F150 nuisance disconnect alarms. The lights stay on...the connector is in place, but the truck thinks its disconnected. Nuisance alarms cause you to ignore them. ( I remember visiting a nuclear fuel processing site and the engineer's pager kept going off. He finally took it off and threw it in a desk drawer. But it wasn't a pager: it was a radiation detector!)

In the 19, there is a junction box under the dinette seat where the cable is butt spliced to the trailer wiring. And I'll make sure the new tie-wraps are UV resistant. That should fix the trailer side.
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:48 AM   #16
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You could also substitute some small hose clamps for the cable tie or even better use both, sort of like a belt and suspenders set up.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:56 AM   #17
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sort of like a belt and suspenders set up.
Too Much Information Jim....................
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:00 AM   #18
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We were driving on I -35 south toward Des Moines, when the P3 trailer brake controller suddenly flashed red and reported no trailer connection. I found the first exit ramp, pulled off, and found the plug barely hanging in the tow's 7 pin socket.

The 7 pin receptacle was installed by my Toyota dealer when we bought the new Highlander and the spring on the flap seemed very weak to me - much weaker than the factory model that came on our Tacoma. With the Tacoma, the strong spring helped hold flap's tab securely against the plug's tab and help hold it all together very well.

The dealer agree to replace the receptacle, but the new one has a spring that's no stronger. I've since concluded that part of the problem is the spring connectors inside the cable plug, After years of use they seem to have more space between each of the 2 metal connectors that are supposed to securely make connection with the tow's pins and also help hold the plug and receptacle together. Before we go out on on out next trip, I'm going to try to see if I can do anything to push those spring connectors back closer together.

Ever since that disconnect on the freeway, I've kept a velcro wrap around the unit to keep it locked together and I think from now on I always will.
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Old 05-31-2016, 01:36 PM   #19
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The connector on my 2014 Silverado is not all that secure. The latch keeps it place but it doesn't mate very deeply. A couple of times we have had to give it a shove in when all the lights were not working during the preflight check. On the other hand, my old Trailblazer held the plug very securely.
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