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Old 03-15-2017, 05:38 PM   #21
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Robert,
I use a 12v blanket with my furnace, does the furnace warm the upper bed area adequately in your 5.0?
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
My thought is that burying a sub-panel inside a cabinet so the breakers can't be seen, checked, or reset without lifting a dinette seat is not good. To me, this is the only undesirable aspect of Escape's design.

The fix is a panel which would be suitable to mount in the face of the cabinet, unlike the typical surface-mounted small sub-panel found in building centres. This arrangement for 12 V DC fuse panels is readily available in RV product lines, but the RV AC panels typically seem to be integrated with the converter in a power centre. For 120 V AC breakers so far I've only found the Blue Sea Systems panels (with a back cover)... and they require the use of specific (more expensive and not commonly available) breakers, not the used in houses. Mounted in the cabinet face, I don't know how small it needs to be.
I understand the reasoning there Brian, but am not super concerned, as if there should ever be an issue, I know where to look.

Those Blue Sea breaker sets are quite nice, and would not look too bad, that's for sure. $187 CAD at Marine Outfitters for the 3 position one, a bit spendy but not too bad for something that looks fairly well built.
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
The main purpose is for the electric blanket in the winter, takes a long time to warm up the latex with just your bodies. Other then that it's just assorted battery chargers, which I do one the step or on the little shelf by the door, which if I recall correctly happens to have an AC outlet that's on the same breaker under it. And the infrequent TV. The only spots missing it are outside and at the kitchen counter.

In reality, we do just fine without an inverter but I do find the little 400 watt'ers fan to be noisy when I use it inside. I miss getting into a warm bed when we have no hookups. Just conveniences, like a lot of the benefits of a trailer.

I did order a Magnum 1000 watt inverter, says it puts out 1000w as opposed to the Xantrex's 900w, might get lucky and it'll run the MW or Deb's hairdryer on medium (750w).
I have never used an electric blanket before, and am not real keen to do so. I am a warm sleeper, and we had a 2 1/2" latex topper on our last trailer mattress, and it never took more than a few minutes to get the bed warm and cozy. We did keep the temps up near 10°C (50°F) to minimize condensation on the window frames. We hopefully can sleep a bit cooler with the new windows but will see.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:14 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Robert,
I use a 12v blanket with my furnace, does the furnace warm the upper bed area adequately in your 5.0?
Yes, it's fine. We're just spoiled when it comes to a warm bed.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
I have never used an electric blanket before, and am not real keen to do so. I am a warm sleeper, and we had a 2 1/2" latex topper on our last trailer mattress, and it never took more than a few minutes to get the bed warm and cozy. We did keep the temps up near 10°C (50°F) to minimize condensation on the window frames. We hopefully can sleep a bit cooler with the new windows but will see.
We've always had one, kind of like A/C or power windows in the car, hard to go without once you've had it.

We bump up the temp to 67 (how do you get a degree symbol?) when we're in the trailer at night, 60 when sleeping. I'd be traveling by myself if I kept it at 50.

You Canadians are a tough lot. Bet you canoe when there is ice on the lake too.l
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:35 PM   #25
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inverters

Jim maybe keep it simple .What I just did was put in a 2000 watt inverter direct to the batterieswith number 2 awg wire . Then have a plug for microwave and one next to the plug that ETI gives you under dinette. That way we have 2 plugs one for microwave and tv and one under dinette for hair dryer etc.
Run the fridge on propane so the only thing you need 110 A/C is the air conditioner Why do you need all that A/C power ?

BTW I should have had ETI put in the inverter . and I should have had ETI install my springfield table base .It's all done now so I can get to camping next month . JIm W
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:09 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
Jim maybe keep it simple .What I just did was put in a 2000 watt inverter direct to the batterieswith number 2 awg wire . Then have a plug for microwave and one next to the plug that ETI gives you under dinette. That way we have 2 plugs one for microwave and tv and one under dinette for hair dryer etc.
Run the fridge on propane so the only thing you need 110 A/C is the air conditioner Why do you need all that A/C power ?

BTW I should have had ETI put in the inverter . and I should have had ETI install my springfield table base .It's all done now so I can get to camping next month . JIm W
There is some good advantage to keeping it simple. We don't have a microwave to power. I have 2 TV locations, and the 120V feed to them is separate, and not terminated under the dinette seat, so would be easy to add into any circuit.

I don't foresee a need for lots of AC power, I am just looking for convenience and flexibility.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:18 PM   #27
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(how do you get a degree symbol?)l
ALT+0176. Press an hold the Alt key, then in order press 0, then 1, then 7, then 6, then release the Alt key.

ALT+248 works too.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:00 PM   #28
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Hi Jim, I' am not sure if this will help or hinder you but I have pics of Bears under bench.
Attached Thumbnails
1-WATER HEATER-WATER PUMP.jpg   2-EMS-SUB.jpg   3-EMS-SUB.jpg   4-EMS.jpg   5-WFCO-AUTO SWITCH & CONVERTER.jpg  

6-WFCO-AUTO SWITCH.jpg   7-WFCO-AUTO SWITCH & CONVERTER.jpg   8-WFCO-AUTO SWITCH BACK.jpg  
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:03 PM   #29
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Other side.
Attached Thumbnails
9-WFCO-DISTRIBUTION PANEL.jpg   10-GO POWER 1500 Watt HIGH SURGE  Inverter.jpg   11-GO POWER 1500 Watt HIGH SURGE  Inverter.jpg   12-REMOTE SOLAR CONTROLER & INVERTER.jpg   13-BATTERY VOLTS.jpg  

14-BATTERY PERCENT CHARGE.jpg   15-SOLAR AMPS.jpg  
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:05 PM   #30
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Hi Jim, I' am not sure if this will help or hinder you but I have pics of Bears under bench.
The pics are helpful, thanks for sharing them. I like the WFCO transfer switch that piggybacks the converter.

Yep, I'll say it again. Much better to have Escape install. It is going to cost me at least as much to do it myself, not to count the time to do it. At least I am learning.
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:09 AM   #31
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Hi Jim, Glad it helped. I to am learning and for the most part understand the general functionality of the electrical system/solar but the minute details make my head spin. Your solar output is going to be enormous and in conjunction with a nice inverter, your option will be endless. Good luck
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:34 AM   #32
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Solar

Jim: Can you expand a bit on your proposed solar install? Are you sourcing everything separate or is this a kit from one of the major manufacturers? I'm brainstorming myself right now. Have some more room and flexibility on the roof with the A/C removed in favor of the mini-split we did.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:33 PM   #33
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Jim: Can you expand a bit on your proposed solar install? Are you sourcing everything separate or is this a kit from one of the major manufacturers? I'm brainstorming myself right now. Have some more room and flexibility on the roof with the A/C removed in favor of the mini-split we did.
I had shared on another thread, I just can't remember what one it was.

I am using 4 semi-flexible 60W panels that will get taped to the top part of the roof, completely out of view. I researched like crazy and came up with a newer style that uses a fibreglass backing, and a ETFE film on the top surface which adds in absorption and is way tougher than previous coatings.

I am also going to use my 80W Go Pro portable panel when needed.

Though a 20A controller would work, I bought a 30A one on the off chance I want to connect the panels all in series. It is an EPSolar Tracer 3125BN. I got a remote meter, temp, PC cable and battery temperature sensor with it.

Everything cost me about $900 CAD, with the exception of the portable panel which I already had.

My plan right now is that I will put two pairs in series, and run these two set parallel to the solar charger. My 80W portable is actually two panels, which I am rewiring in series, which will tie in to the rest in parallel when connected via a port on the rear of the trailer. I got a Go Pro Cable Entry Plate from Reace I am going to use to run the cables through the roof.

I already have all this stuff, just waiting for some time and nice weather and will install in. Now I just have to figure out the inverter stuff, though not is a terrible hurry to get that done (unless the wife dictates it is important ).
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