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Old 11-25-2013, 05:18 PM   #11
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Essentially, if the inverter is not installed I could run 2 appliances (assuming your conditions) if plugged into shore power; but if I select the inverter option I could only run 1 appliance because of how the inverter/transfer switch/AC supply are wired? j
Depending on the appliances and the outlets - yes. In theory you lose but - how often will you run all those appliances at once? (And where do you keep them all? And where do you find counter space for them? LOL) Practically speaking I am quite happy with Escape's xfer switch implementation, which I have added to our build sheet.

The trailer can draw 30amps from shore power - split up however you like - but remember the converter/charger (and any 12V loads), fridge on auto, dual source water heater if on, and especially the A/C will cut into (or totally use up) that 30 amps. Escape is reasonably figuring those loads will exist - so a max of 20amps for the outlets is quite reasonable.
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Old 11-25-2013, 05:27 PM   #12
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Thanks very much for taking time to answer my questions! It all seems good. My goal is just to try to understand as much as I can - pros, cons, limitations, everything - as thoroughly as possible. Hoping to minimize the "I never knew/I wish I'd known..." moments down the road! : )

Geez - I never thought of this, your email seems to indicate that I might not be able to
plug in my electric margarita maker with the fridge, hot water, and A/C running full blast. Better buy that hand crank one..... j
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:00 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by jamie beers View Post
Thanks very much for taking time to answer my questions! It all seems good. My goal is just to try to understand as much as I can - pros, cons, limitations, everything - as thoroughly as possible. Hoping to minimize the "I never knew/I wish I'd known..." moments down the road! : )

Geez - I never thought of this, your email seems to indicate that I might not be able to
plug in my electric margarita maker with the fridge, hot water, and A/C running full blast. Better buy that hand crank one..... j
Jamie I think things have become a bit convoluted on this thread!!! You have to keep in mind that the only reason that your are running Air/C is because it's hot. Therefore, you have to set your priorities correctly. Probably Air/C first, and then Margaritas. Run the fridge on propane (get the "Texas" fan option... $125 to help keep the fridge cool), and don't heat your water for a shower... use cold!!!

Then you're "Good to Go"... don't worry about converters/inverters/transfer switches/etc.... "Be Happy"!!!

You're Welcome,
Larry
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:19 AM   #14
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I just talked to Reace and George.

When Escape installs the transfer switch they feed the (GO Power 30amp) transfer switch from a 20amp 120V AC breaker and the inverter output.

The transfer switch output (from the inverter or whatever the power cord is plugged in to - generator, 120V power grid, etc.) goes to another breaker box with 2 15amp breakers - which feeds the plugs. The microwave is normally NOT fed via the transfer switch, but can be if you request it. (You need to request it if you want to run the microwave from the inverter - we want to and have requested it.)
Jamman, I have been studying, in detail, a great number of posts on this forum. In addition, I have had a lot of questions answered by Kim at Escape. To date, I have found that Escapeís standard offerings and additional options all make perfect sense. They appear to configure all pieces to work in unison. However, your above described explanation received from Reace that the standard wiring from the inverter does not include the microwave has got me stumped. Why would that not be a standard connection?

We are planning to order their standard offering microwave (Dometic Model CDMW07) which has a 700W rating, the 1500W inverter, TS-30 transfer switch and the twin 6v battery package (232 AH rating).

Off grid, common sense dictates that one would not exceed 10 - 15 minutes per day on this microwave (12 - 18 AH) off the 6vís. Especially, no problem if backed up by solar.

Does anyone have an explanation for this Save me from asking Reace this question... Heís busy enough... building all of us our trailers...

Larry
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:37 AM   #15
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I did not ask him why. I *suspect* it is due to the high battery current draw when using the microwave. I *think* he is worried about indiscriminate use and ruined batteries.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:34 AM   #16
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Yes, it makes sense Doug... after posting, I realized too that some folks may ask for the microwave only, but no inverter. Therefore standard wiring would be A/Current source, through breaker to microwave. I just assumed that if one asks for an inverter c/w TS, the output from the TS would include the microwave... but I should know what ASSUME stands for... LOL!!!

I sure learnt something from this thread... and again Doug, thanks for your help!!!

Larry
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:02 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by stargeezer View Post
jamie i think things have become a bit convoluted on this thread!!! You have to keep in mind that the only reason that your are running air/c is because it's hot. Therefore, you have to set your priorities correctly. Probably air/c first, and then margaritas. Run the fridge on propane (get the "texas" fan option... $125 to help keep the fridge cool), and don't heat your water for a shower... Use cold!!!

Then you're "good to go"... Don't worry about converters/inverters/transfer switches/etc.... "be happy"!!!

You're welcome,
larry
lol : )
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:42 PM   #18
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Found this thread by accident, and am glad I did. Post #4 is very important if correct: that ETI will wire the microwave outlet only upon request. Have emailed ETI for clarification as like others I thought that by paying $300 for the Transfer Switch option that ALL outlets were wired.

I need some other advice though. Have ordered a Xantrex XPower 3000 modified sine wave inverter as a Vita Mix blender needs more power than the 1500 watt unit ETI offers. In a 21, what are the lengths of cable needed?
What gauge?
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:58 PM   #19
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Post #4 was correct at the time. ETI may well have changed things so it is always best to ask. And if they have please post the current info here.

Your questions about wire gauge and length are related. Shorter runs MAY allow smaller wires. It is best to put the inverter as close to the batteries as practical. I would check recent 21 build photos (and/or ETI) for locations. And the inverter installation manual for wire sizes.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:19 PM   #20
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Doug- will post ETI's response. Am still looking for input on cable length/size from any 21 owners who have installed their own inverters and connected to ETI-supplied Transfer Switch. It appears that battery/WFCO/Transfer switch are all in close proximity to each other.
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