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Old 06-08-2014, 09:40 PM   #11
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On my RAV4 there is a four-pin connection between the 7-pin and the front of the vehicle. It was exposed under the vehicle, and it was the culprit. Cleaned that and got things working.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:14 PM   #12
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We had exactly the same situation 4 weeks ago.

As part of my trouble shooting routine I double checked which tow vehicle fuse supplied power to my Ford Ranger brake and running lights. I was a little surprised to see in the fuse listings that the trailer plug had separate fuses for both the left and right turn signals. The one for the non-working side of the trailer was blown. I replaced it and we've done several thousand miles since without any further problem.

We have the double set of rear lights and at the time I wondered if the draw for the double set of lights was marginal for the fuse rating. But since we haven't had any further problem, touch wood, it's probably not going to be a continuing problem.

So I'd say say, check your fuse listing page of the owner's manual for your tow vehicle and see if you have separate fuses for your trailer plug.

Good luck,

Ron
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:26 PM   #13
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I was thinking it was not the truck's issue since the "turn left" signal is getting through to the A position LEDs (when the head lights are not on).

I'm trying to attach a photo.

But apparently it wants to attach upside down. Stand on your head to view, please. (Shrugging shoulders.)

The photo, besides being posted upside down, is taken with the hazards flashing, so that you can get the full understanding of what I mean. All 11 lights should be flashing on left and right, but the left only has the A position LEDs flashing. (Remember to stand on your head to view the left vs. right in the photos. Sigh. )
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:41 PM   #14
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I was so focused on trying to attach a photo (which didn't happen gracefully) that I didn't flesh out my question of clarification...

could it really be a fuse or a converter issue if part of the left tail light is working properly?

We leave for a long trip next weekend and so my time is a limited commodity this week... need to know how to proceed so I'm not barking up the wrong tree.

Your input is appreciated!
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:53 PM   #15
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An LED lamp would normally be sealed.

The 11 glowing parts in each lamp assembly are individual LEDs - not bulbs. Since they are all working together in their groups, it does look like a wiring issue.

Behaviour of stop/turn lamps changing with headlight operation usually suggests a grounding problem... or perhaps an internal problem in the converter.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
it does look like a wiring issue.
Wiring of the tail light assembly (thus a trip to an RV place or to Escape this week)?
or
Wiring of my tow vehicle (thus a trip to an auto place)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Behaviour of stop/turn lamps changing with headlight operation usually suggests a grounding problem.
Wait, let me clarify... the A LEDs are behaving properly... they flash when they are supposed to (head lights off and turn signal on) and they are solid when they are supposed to (head lights on). So the trouble is, if I don't do anything, then I will not be able to flash/signal when the headlights are on because it is the B LEDs that are not working.
ie, the As are behaving consistently appropriate. The Bs are consistently dim, not behaving properly.
(Again, the A and B terms are mine, to describe the different functioning of the two LEDs.)

Again, your brain power is appreciated. (Why was everything working perfectly a month ago when we took it to the RV place for repacking the wheel bearings? Murphy's Law. We try!)
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:07 AM   #17
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The picture really helps!

My latest guess is the left tail light fixture is bad.

Method 1:
Take your truck to a buddy's trailer and see if it works OR Bring a buddy's vehicle to your trailer.

Method 2: (I have one - very useful.)
Use a plug tester like Ron cited.

Method 3: (And I have done this, too.)
Use a voltmeter between the truck socket neutral and left turn pins.
Being careful not to short the wires, connect 12V across the trailer plug ground and left turn pins.

Method 4:
Go to a hitch/wiring installer or an RV place. Either should be able to at least figure out whether the trailer or truck is bad and maybe fix it.
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Old 06-09-2014, 12:48 AM   #18
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I vote same as jamman
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:57 AM   #19
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Thanks for your good brain work. We appreciate the input.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:40 AM   #20
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Re-reading your post and now understanding the AA etc. part I can see your situation is different from ours. Must have had brain fade after the long drive back from the Osoyoss rally

I agree with the previous suggestions. I use method 3 a lot, putting power from a known source directly into the part in question. Trouble shooting by isolation is a good technique. Putting power in at the plug doesn't completely isolate the problem because the problem could still be in the wiring going to the light or the light itself.

Ideally putting the power directly into the light to completely isolate the unit and show if its' working would be most helpful but the wiring connectors, at least on mine, are very difficult to access. I have an old m/c battery that I use for situations like this.

I did ask at the rally if there was a schematic for the trailer and the answer is "No".

I think there should be and, at some point, I will draw one. For example it would be useful to know where items are grounded. I have already found more than one ground and a compromised ground can create problems.

At any rate, keep on trouble shooting and hopefully you'll isolate the problem.

Ron
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