Unhitching 19

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I
(thank goodness for my X-Chocks).

Have you tried it without the X-chocks, just lightly chocked?

How's the build coming, had your first BBQ yet?

Ron

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Have you tried it without the X-chocks, just lightly chocked?

How's the build coming, had your first BBQ yet?

Ron

Yep, we've tried it without the chocks when our site is completely level Ron. Same result. It's just never come out of the coupler easily. Not once. Slips on like butter, but coming off is another story.

As for the house, they started with stucco today. Interior mechanicals, electrical and low voltage wiring (layed that out myself) has been completed, as well as exterior doors except the entry door. That's custom and isn't ready yet so they're just using a temporary front door. They just did the corrections from the 4th punch of the framing, and the final inspection of the frame work was also supposed to be today. After stucco comes the roof, stone work (alot) and then finally we'll see some sheet rock.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

.............. After stucco comes the roof, ...............

Stucco before roof?? Have they loaded the roof and just not laid the shingles (or tiles)? If the weight isn't already on the roof framing, and the walls are plastered first, cracks abound!

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by goalie39

Yes, the cotter pins are a little small and tricky to remove on my WDH as well. I carry some small pliers in the storage box for this, but I like your suggestion better!
I'll add a small carabiner or loop to get a good grip when removing the pin. Thanks.

Yay, someone knows the correct terms. Although obviously "thingie" worked as you knew what I meant.

Yep, got the hint for using a carabiner from Trailer Life that was sent in by someone. It really made a difference for me and I don't have a lot of strength in my hands.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

Stucco before roof?? Have they loaded the roof and just not laid the shingles (or tiles)? If the weight isn't already on the roof framing, and the walls are plastered first, cracks abound!

The roof just needs the shingles. They do the stucco, particularly on the chimney, first. Otherwise they'd make a mess on the shingles. As for cracking, there's no "load" on the stucco from the roof or anywhere else. The lath has a plaster stop at the top and a weep screed at the bottom and doesn't actually touch the soffit/fascia of the roof. There's also an air gap behind the stucco walls once completed, so any moisture can evaporate and the stucco doesn't stay wet and deteriorate over time.

[NW Cat Owner]

Holy Cow, what a difference it made hitching up with the anti-sway bars. I didn't have to muck around with those horrid cotter pins.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HUGE difference! Love these babies!

Thanks Pstyer for posting about them in the other thread on "Unhitching help, please".

Yeah, everyone will wanna get a set of these.

[float5]

Originally Posted by Kingbiscuit

We unhitched for the first time today. I unhooked the lights, chains and chocked the wheels. I removed the leveling bars. For the life of me I couldn't get the hitch to separate from the van. I lowered the tongue, raised it, Jo the van forward and back... nothing. Finally after about 30 frustrating minutes, it came apart.

Any suggestions on how to make this less frustrating?

We have had problems many times unhitching but usually can get it soon enough.

We always grease the ball (and remove grease right after unhooking with a shop paper towel).

We remove the WDH before trying to unhitch.

We make certain that the latch is all the way back first.

If the ball does not come loose, usually pulling the TV a tad forward will do it. Sometimes we do put our weight on the ball mount.

That has take care of it for us except possibly in rare situations where there is a slope, which is probably not your situation.

You should find out what works for you after a few tries. Hopefully only a few!

P.S. I take it that your Escape is no longer on order. Congratulations!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by float5

We always grease the ball (and remove grease right after unhooking with a shop paper towel).

I wouldn't want to clean and re-grease the ball with every stop, although it makes sense if the grease has noticeably pickup up dirt, to avoid grinding abrasive debris into the ball and coupler. The alternative way to have a greased coupling and not get grease on pant legs or whatever is to pop a cover on the ball after unhitching.

[P&L]

We are getting better at unhooking after reading the prior post started by Laura. Our trailer used to hang onto the ball and drop with a thud. Contributors to the post mentioned moving up (or back) an inch or so and then unhitch. That worked for us and now we don't mind unhitching! Thank goodness! And thank you Laura!

Lorna

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by P&L

We are getting better at unhooking after reading the prior post started by Laura. Our trailer used to hang onto the ball and drop with a thud. Contributors to the post mentioned moving up (or back) an inch or so and then unhitch. That worked for us and now we don't mind unhitching! Thank goodness! And thank you Laura!

Lorna

Hey glad I could help, even though I didn't know I was helping! And glad to know I wasn't the only one having problems as I really thought I was and thought I'd break our new trailer and all that. Whew!

[float5]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I wouldn't want to clean and re-grease the ball with every stop, although it makes sense if the grease has noticeably pickup up dirt, to avoid grinding abrasive debris into the ball and coupler. The alternative way to have a greased coupling and not get grease on pant legs or whatever is to pop a cover on the ball after unhitching.

We go ahead and do it at every stop. Probably takes us less than one minute on and less than one minute off so we just do it that way. Shop towel works great to remove it with just folding in half and in half again.

[dfandrews]

At one campground, I got fed up with grease on the pant legs from the ball, and grabbed a baggie formerly holding my lunch, and stuck it on the ball. Now, we use a baggie whenever we're not hitched up, but the ball mount is still in the receiver. We keep a few spare baggies in the back of the tow where the ball mount is stored. (Now, if I could just solve the busted shins problem!)

[skiman]

We remove the hitch from the tug, stick the ball into the trailer, latch it closed, and insert the lock. Keeps the ball clean, pant legs and shins protected. It is a two person operation. You can hit your shins walking around the front of the trailer so we turn the hitch sideways to minimize.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by skiman

We remove the hitch from the tug, stick the ball into the trailer, latch it closed, and insert the lock. Keeps the ball clean, pant legs and shins protected. It is a two person operation. You can hit your shins walking around the front of the trailer so we turn the hitch sideways to minimize.

This is what I always did with my 19, works great. A little curious as to the two person operation though, I always did it alone with no issue.

[kstock11]

Another advantage to taking off the hitch, is that you don't have to move the vehicle after unhitching. If it turns out you leave without using the vehicle again, the hitch is already in position. Just raise trailer and remove hitch when setting up & raise the trailer, reinstall the hitch and lower to reattach. Just one less step when setting up.

[skiman]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

This is what I always did with my 19, works great. A little curious as to the two person operation though, I always did it alone with no issue.

The wife flips the latch. Reese hitch too heavy and awkward for one hand. I have done it solo before

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by skiman

The wife flips the latch. Reese hitch too heavy and awkward for one hand. I have done it solo before

I was thinking just a simple ball mount.

[Defenestrator]

Mine's a bit stubborn sometimes and I'm still figuring it out, but I've had decent luck so far with:

1. Chock the trailer wheels tightly. This lets you move the tow vehicle back and forth without the trailer following (if you're not quite on level ground)

2. Crank the tongue up to "equilibrium". That is, the hitch isn't resting on or pulling the ball. This can be a bit hard to determine, but on level ground you can stick the tow vehicle in neutral for a moment so the tension's off.

3. If needed, pull the tow vehicle forward very slightly.

I have to admit, I haven't necessarily had consistent success with this. Last time involved a decent bit of back and forth, but cranking it to equilibrium height finally did it. I have found that no amount of pushing/pulling/thwapping will get it unhitched if everything isn't lined up properly.