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Old 05-15-2018, 05:56 AM   #1
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Upper Rear Signal Light Replacement

I had the drivers side upper signal LED light bar on my 2014 go bad over the winter. When I first posted about the issue, removing Proflex, I was aksed to report back on how it went, it had been reported that the wires are very short making for a difficult job.

Ordered a replacement assembly and finally got around to attempting the job now that the weather is agreeable. This is what the bad LEDs looked like.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:09 AM   #2
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The job took a couple hours, most of it removing the old assembly and the Proflex. Checked my original build pictures from ETI before starting, the wires come up the corner pieces on either side of the back wall, the center and drivers side light run up the drivers side corner, going horizontal just above the base of the upper cabinet. If you run your hand along the fabric in the cabinet you can feel the wires.

The job was pretty straight forward, I had plenty of wire to work with on this light, from past experience, this is not the case with the center light.

Proflex came off pretty well being very careful with a sharp scraper, the sharper the better. The remained came off easily with Acetone. I did notice white on the rag as I used the Acetone, whether that's oxidation or it's a bit of the gelcoat I don't know but it sure works well. Just be careful.

Here's the part https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...47-54-001.html
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:22 AM   #3
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Nice work, helpful pictures. Good to know there's no mystery to the job.
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:58 AM   #4
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Changing to new style!!!

Hi: padlin... We are in the big Chill as I type this. Waiting for ETI appointed time to change out the original slim line ones to the current style brow line lights. This might just take care of the leakers. Polly titions aren't the only ones with this problem!!! Pics to follow. Alf
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
I did notice white on the rag as I used the Acetone, whether that's oxidation or it's a bit of the gelcoat I don't know but it sure works well. Just be careful.
Good advice. Acetone is a rather hot solvent, and it will remove some of the gelcoat if you scrub. Good news is that since it's quite volatile, it evaporates really quickly, and doesn't leave much of a residue. The key is not to have the solvent in contact with the gelcoat for an extended period of time, because it will begin to chemically dissolve the surface. Also, always use chemical resistant gloves when working with acetone because it will absorb into your skin.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
Hi: padlin... We are in the big Chill as I type this. Waiting for ETI appointed time to change out the original slim line ones to the current style brow line lights. This might just take care of the leakers. Polly titions aren't the only ones with this problem!!! Pics to follow. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
It'd be interesting to see how it comes out and what they had to do to get it look right. If you look close at the last 2 pics above you'll notice the gelcoat has a blue tint to it where it was covered by the light as well as the holes for the screws that would need filling. Not something I'd attempt myself.
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:48 PM   #7
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Bob,
I assume you filled the center as well as the screw holes with proflex
to prevent future leaks? Looks like you had to enlarge the center hole to get the new connectors inside?
Thanks for posting the pictures....
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
It'd be interesting to see how it comes out and what they had to do to get it look right. If you look close at the last 2 pics above you'll notice the gelcoat has a blue tint to it where it was covered by the light as well as the holes for the screws that would need filling. Not something I'd attempt myself.
Hi padlin... Me neither. They're also going to add the extra brackets for the solar panel. I'm a danger with a drill!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 05-15-2018, 05:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Bob,
I assume you filled the center as well as the screw holes with proflex
to prevent future leaks? Looks like you had to enlarge the center hole to get the new connectors inside?
Thanks for posting the pictures....

that's the original hole size. I did goop the hole in question, from the looks of the caulk I scrapped off ETI had caulked around the hole before putting it in place.
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Old 05-15-2018, 06:12 PM   #10
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My passenger side upper rear light is failing; some of the LEDs are burned out but not all of them. What causes this? Does this upper right light have enough wire to work with? I've been putting off replacing it.
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