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Old 03-23-2015, 07:37 PM   #21
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Glenn,
If the valve is open and some water gets thru there should not be any issue with the pressure being too high, or is my thinking skewed?
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:40 PM   #22
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Not sure what you are saying. Maybe attach the regulator to the faucet and open the tap. See how much water flows?
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:41 PM   #23
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What I mean is you are afraid of high pressure but with some of it coming out at the sink the pressure should not build up like it would in your hose that ruptured.
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:51 PM   #24
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I don't want to blow out my water lines in the trailer, which is the reason for the pressure reduction valve. If I remove that valve, the water pressure is so high at my house that that's what surely would happen.
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:57 PM   #25
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Have you eliminated the potable water hose as the problem? Is it kinked or partially blocked?
Have you tried to hook up, temporarily, with a regular garden hose to see if you get the same result?
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:02 PM   #26
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I did check for kinks. Which reminds me. Does anybody make one that doesn't kink so easily?
I'm going to connect pressure reduction valve to house tap and open it up and see what happens. Then I'll start over, filling water heater and fresh water etc.
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:03 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
That does sound like quite high pressure. I have heard of other municipalities that are high too.
That's slowly ending. When I built my house I teed off a garden hose bib ahead of the regulator. For years I could do a passable cleaning job on my driveway with it. Then, as they replaced mains etc. the policy became; install more regulators in the mains and they dropped my incoming pressure to 60 psi. Then I bought a pressure washer Oh well, it was great to have while it lasted.

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Old 03-23-2015, 08:34 PM   #28
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I can't attest to you problem at your home, but I've run into hose bib issues in campgrounds. The pressure regulator that I have (brass) has two screens, one at the input and one at the output. There's a tang on the hose bib that needs to be fully open to work, the screen on the beginning of the pressure regulator didn't allow that to happen. I yanked that first (of two screens) and had water. YMMV
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:09 PM   #29
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Just a thought - - Have you tried closing the water heater by-pass valves and then checking the flow in the kitchen?
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Old 03-23-2015, 09:14 PM   #30
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Haven't. I'll add to my list.
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