What is this switch in the dinette?

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

The obvious question is, why doesn't ETI spend a few cents more and install switches with an on-off plate? If wired correctly then there's never a question about whether it's on or off.

Ron

Looking at the photo in post 1 by the OP the switch does have a on/off plate on the base on the switch.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Looking at the photo in post 1 by the OP the switch does have a on/off plate on the base on the switch.

Good eyes

Ron

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by KarenH

I did, too...almost every last one. But I admit to having those microseconds of concern wondering if they're like those labels on pillows and upholstery. Will the label police find me? Will I end up in jail?

May you never be in position of selling the trailer and having the buyer repeatedly asking "Whats this do"

Ron

[gbaglo]

I'm fine with labels, as long as you don't label your label-maker "Label-Maker".

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

The obvious question is, why doesn't ETI spend a few cents more and install switches with an on-off plate? If wired correctly then there's never a question about whether it's on or off.

What are you referring to here, Ron?

Escape wires all switches with up as on. Seems like an easy concept to follow.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Good eyes

Ron

Yes ours says off and on the silver plate .. Requires getting on your knees to switch on and off anyway . Can't see from door what position switch is in . Wish we had a nice marine switch moved over where you put yours Ron . Wouldn't need to put a guard on cheap switch . Pat

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Hopefully most folks live in a house wired by a qualified person who follows conventions and wires switches that when "down" are off.

The obvious question is, why doesn't ETI spend a few cents more and install switches with an on-off plate? If wired correctly then there's never a question about whether it's on or off.

Personally, if I had a switch in an exposed position like that I'd have a switch guard on it.

Ron

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Pat

Most people live in houses that have some two way switches. These, by their very nature, may be up or down depending on the position of the other switch.

And the switch covers you displayed WILL NOT work with the switch ETI installs. The switch is too large. Furthermore, the covers displayed when open typically allow the switch to be turned on, but upon closing, push the switch to the off position. They are intended to prevent accidental activation of a toggle switch controlled circuit.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Most people live in houses that have some two way switches. These, by their very nature, may be up or down depending on the position of the other switch.

And the switch covers you displayed WILL NOT work with the switch ETI installs. The switch is too large. Furthermore, the covers displayed when open typically allow the switch to be turned on, but upon closing, push the switch to the off position. They are intended to prevent accidental activation of a toggle switch controlled outlet.

Didn't know that about those posted switch covers . Good to know . For most some kind of protection for the Escape switch is a good idea . Before Myron posted his cover a lot had their switchs break . Pat

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Didn't know that about those posted switch covers . Good to know . For most some kind of protection for the Escape switch is a good idea . Before Myron posted his cover a lot had their switchs break . Pat

In another thread, I displayed a switch protector I made out of a 98 cent hard clear plastic condiment cup purchased at Walmart.

Also, please note that I have corrected my previous post, I meant to say toggle switch controlled CIRCUIT, not a toggle switch controlled OUTLET.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I'm fine with labels, as long as you don't label your label-maker "Label-Maker".

Why? Wouldn't want to mistake it for a stapler!

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

In another thread, I displayed a switch protector I made out of a 98 cent hard clear plastic condiment cup purchased at Walmart.

Also, please note that I have corrected my previous post, I meant to say toggle switch controlled CIRCUIT, not a toggle switch controlled OUTLET.

Just made ours out of a scape piece of plastic I had . Used a heat gun and formed it over a piece of 2/4 , cut plastic to round out , and cut hole in center . I am trying to use stuff I have laying around and give them a purpose . As long as you figure some kind of guard for switch , it's all good . I just liked Myron 's . Pat

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Just made ours out of a scape piece of plastic I had . Used a heat gun and formed it over a piece of 2/4 , cut plastic to round out , and cut hole in center . I am trying to use stuff I have laying around and give them a purpose . As long as you figure some kind of guard for switch , it's all good . I just liked Myron 's . Pat

I agree with your thought about using something that was just laying around. While I didn't use a piece of scrap material, I had three condiment cups my wife had previously "discarded" that I kept on the workbench for holding small parts. I just used the best looking one. I know they were 98 cents because I was with her when she originally bought them. I used a second one to make a switch protector for another Escape owner. And I have misplaced the third one!

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I agree with your thought about using something that was just laying around. While I didn't use a piece of scrap material, I had three condiment cups my wife had previously "discarded" that I kept on the workbench for holding small parts. I just used the best looking one. I know they were 98 cents because I was with her when she originally bought them. I used a second one to make a switch protector for another Escape owner. And I have misplaced the third one!

Carl Pat

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

I'm pretty sure it's in the Up position, so that means I've not cut off my battery supply.

I know there was mention of it in the manual, but I just looked and I couldn't find it. It's not listed in the Table of Contents nor did I find mention of it in the Electrical System section or the battery in the Care and Maintenance section.

! Ack!

Originally Posted by float5

Yes, you want that battery switch on. Not everyone has "on" facing the same way. .

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

What are you referring to here, Ron?

Escape wires all switches with up as on. Seems like an easy concept to follow.

Some seem to have indicated that that's not always the case.

What I'm really wondering about now is how that switch can be called a battery switch?

To me, a battery switch is capable of shutting down, disconnecting the batteries, from all other wiring. Typically there is a large fuse at the battery, then a heavy cable to the battery switch. I don't understand how this apparently quite small switch could connect to a battery cable.

Does anyone have a photo of the wiring on the rear of the switch?

Ron

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Some seem to have indicated that that's not always the case.

What I'm really wondering about now is how that switch can be called a battery switch?

To me, a battery switch is capable of shutting down, disconnecting the batteries, from all other wiring. Typically there is a large fuse at the battery, then a heavy cable to the battery switch. I don't understand how this apparently quite small switch could connect to a battery cable.

Does anyone have a photo of the wiring on the rear of the switch?

Ron

I've looked, and while I don't want to guess at the gauge, they are BIG wires! BIG!

[Ron in BC]

Well that's good to know. I couldn't tell from the first photo what the actual size was. I've never actually seen one as my trailer didn't come with one.

Ron

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

What I'm really wondering about now is how that switch can be called a battery switch?

To me, a battery switch is capable of shutting down, disconnecting the batteries, from all other wiring. Typically there is a large fuse at the battery, then a heavy cable to the battery switch. I don't understand how this apparently quite small switch could connect to a battery cable.

Does anyone have a photo of the wiring on the rear of the switch?

It's not really a battery cutoff switch - it's an isolation switch for storage. It only needs to isolate circuits with potentially continuing loads, such as a propane detector. As long as all of those loads are connected to the DC power distribution panel in power centre, that can be achieved by breaking the connection anywhere between the battery and the power centre... which is what Escape does. Some circuits can go directly to the battery (each with a fuse, of course) - examples include the inverter and solar charge controller output (if installed).

Sorry, no photo (although I suspect there's one in the forum somewhere), but the wiring should be suited to the maximum current in the wire between the battery and the power centre (not the maximum output of the battery). The maximum current from power centre to battery is the 55 amp output of the converter; the other depends on the total installed fuse capacity. I've seen pretty small toggle switches rated for 70 amps, but I don't know that that one is rated for.

Ron, I like your switch much better.

[jamman]

If I recall correctly it is a 30 (or 50?) amp rated switch. It breaks the connection between the converter and the battery. (And I think between the battery and the break-away switch so if turned off when towing the break-away switch will not be efffective.)

It does NOT break the connection between the battery and the ETI-installed inverter nor the solar charger.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by jamman

If I recall correctly it is a 30 (or 50?) amp rated switch.

I hope it's not 30 amps. If the battery is fully discharged and the converter is powered up (the trailer is plugged into shore power), up to 55 amps could flow through that wire (from converter to battery).

Originally Posted by jamman

It breaks the connection between the converter and the battery. (And I think between the battery and the break-away switch so if turned off when towing the break-away switch will not be efffective.)

From previous discussions, it appears that the breakaway circuit is powered from the converter side of the switch on some trailers (so yes, the switch needs to be on while towing), but the battery side (so it always works) on others. This probably depends on some combination of model and year.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Some seem to have indicated that that's not always the case.

What I'm really wondering about now is how that switch can be called a battery switch?

To me, a battery switch is capable of shutting down, disconnecting the batteries, from all other wiring. Typically there is a large fuse at the battery, then a heavy cable to the battery switch. I don't understand how this apparently quite small switch could connect to a battery cable.

Does anyone have a photo of the wiring on the rear of the switch?

Ron

Out in the trailer Ron . Here is a picture behind the switch . Pat: