Wheel nut removal

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

This is what I have always know as a tire iron. One end for lug nuts the other for removing hub caps or popping the bead of the rim.

Yep, that's a lug wrench... but many people have called it a tire iron.

A tire iron is for popping the bead off (or back on) the rim but the sharp end of that tool is unsuitable for that purpose.

I hate those little wrenches that come with most cars. I would only use one if I didn't have my regular tools. I certainly wouldn't buy one to carry it in the trailer. What I bought was a socket and flex (or breaker) handle.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

I use a telescoping half-inch drive ratchet from Harbor Freight for my Andersen WDH and lug nuts. It collapses enough to fit in a small toolbox and extends an additional six inches for enough leverage to loosen everything (so far, at least). Inexpensive too.

Nice setup

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Nice setup

Yea, it works well. But in the spirit of full disclosure, I also own an 18" length of 1.5" galvanized pipe to put on the end of it if ever needed.

[rbryan4]

I don't recommend a lug wrench. Get yourself a good breaker bar with a u-joint, 1/2" drive, at least 15" long, (to remove the lugs) and a good quality torque wrench (to re-tighten). Also, with quite a few years changing tires, installing brakes, rotors, etc, I've never applied anything to the lugs in order to loosen them. I've never seen a case where a good breaker bar didn't do the trick. Even my wife can do it! (no honey, I am NOT saying you're weak)....

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I

Get yourself a good breaker bar with a u-joint, 1/2" drive, at least 15" long, (to remove the lugs) and a good quality torque wrench (to re-tighten).

..

I think a breaker bar is redundant unless you're planning on an engine overhaul also

I carry an old torque wrench with the socket already on it. The handle's 19" long and it's easy to apply a 100 foot pounds with it.

I've no use for the lug wrenches with the 4 different sizes. Not only are you carrying 3 useless socket ends, they don't give a torque value and they really don't fit the wheel lug as well as the proper socket.

Ron

[gbaglo]

My plan is to use my old torque wrench ( the one with the missing gauge needle ) as a breaker bar. Is that daft?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I think a breaker bar is redundant unless you're planning on an engine overhaul also

I carry an old torque wrench with the socket already on it. The handle's 19" long and it's easy to apply a 100 foot pounds with it.

I've no use for the lug wrenches with the 4 different sizes. Not only are you carrying 3 useless socket ends, they don't give a torque value and they really don't fit the wheel lug as well as the proper socket.

Ron

I agree with you about the four different sizes on the lug wrench, and that a good socket will fit better than a cast iron lug wrench ever will. But, ask any good mechanic, and he'll tell you the quickest way to ruin a torque wrench is to use it as a breaker. They have a life cycle, and once they're done, they're done.

[Viajante]

In answer to the original question...Yes, I removed a wheel while changing a flat. I used a 4-way tire iron and it worked fine. Forty miles later I stopped for a new tire and had the mechanic properly torque the lug nuts.

[Cypherian]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My plan is to use my old torque wrench ( the one with the missing gauge needle ) as a breaker bar. Is that daft?

Nope it is broke though be careful it is not as strong as a regular socket wrench of the same size.

Cypher

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Get yourself a good breaker bar with a u-joint, 1/2" drive, at least 15" long, (to remove the lugs)...

One reason I like flex handle breaker bars is that they pivot as necessary to reach the socket without an extension or U-joint. If you use a sliding T-handle, you'll likely need that joint as well.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My plan is to use my old torque wrench ( the one with the missing gauge needle ) as a breaker bar. Is that daft?

No, sounds like a great re-use plan to me.
Since is designed to bend (without damage) in use, is it more flexible than a breaker bar would be. That will make it somewhat less effective than a more rigid bar of the same length... but at zero cost and decent length it should be not bad overall.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My plan is to use my old torque wrench ( the one with the missing gauge needle ) as a breaker bar. Is that daft?

No, not if it was previously calibrated by the GRUNT system. I know when I use mine that I give a small grunt about 100 foot pounds. 120 and I'm really grunting.

Ron

[Catchlight]

Ron, are those metric grunts, or imperial?

I just ordered one of these from the link Brian B-P provided earlier in this thread:

They're on sale, and the shipping is under $8 in Canada.

[gbaglo]

I bought it 20 or 30 years ago to torque the head on a 9hp Briggs and Stratton that powered my boat. Top speed four knots.
It was mostly ignored and abused last couple decades.
I have a new fancy torque wrench, the Toyota issued lug wrench, a cross-shaped lug wrench ( Spider, I learned on Wiki ), this antique, and no desire to ever have to use any of them.

[ruscal]

I got caught by the side of the road with no way to change the flat due to the tire shop over torqueing the lugs. I only had a OEM lug wrench without enough leverage to break it loose. Since then I have always checked the torque of the lugs when I got home from the tire shop as standard procedure. I found that Discount Tire Co. usually mis-torques and mis-inflates the tires. To their credit, I have not found an under-torqued wheel yet. Once properly torqued I have not found it too hard to break loose the lugs.
I carry a 1/2" clicker type torque wrench when traveling that can break loose the lugs easily, and properly install them as well. A breaker bar would be a tool of choice for most tire changing chores that could provide the necessary leverage for breaking loose even severely over-torqued lugs. For non mechanically inclined users it would be good to practice installing the nuts to get a feel for what 100Lbs. torque feels like.
Those cross rim wrenches really aren't that bad, other than having a bulky footprint when stowed. I had one in an old tent trailer that worked well for many years, and moved into a few successive vehicles. You can paint the proper sized end red to keep from having to guess the proper size each time you use it. They also can be spun to quickly remove or install the loosened lugs. Whatever gets the job done without producing blood is the right tool.
Russ