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Old 08-28-2013, 02:36 PM   #21
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Here is the new text from Reace:

WATER SYSTEM WINTERIZATION
When storing your recreational vehicle through periods of freezing weather, in an unheated environment, it will be necessary to winterize the water system. Damage to water system components will result if the proper winterization steps are not taken.
NOTE: Before using the compressed air method, you will need a special adapter known as a blowout plug. This plug allows compressed air to be delivered through the city water fill. This small, inexpensive adapter is available at most RV supply stores.

WINTERIZING WITH COMPRESSED AIR
Purchase 2 gallons of RV non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn the water heater bypass valve to the ‘bypass’ position. (This valve is located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)
3.) Drain the water heater.
4.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device and any other water lines that are closed.
5.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any water from the lines.
7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug) to the city water fill connection.
8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
9.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM AFTER THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE, FLUSH AND SANITIZE THE WATER SYSTEM PRIOR TO USE.

WINTERIZING WITH ANTIFREEZE ONLY
WARNING: NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IN YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM. AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IS TOXIC AND NOT FOR USE IN POTABLE (DRINKABLE) WATER SYSTEMS.
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.
1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn water heater bypass valve to ‘bypass’ position.
3.) Drain water heater.
4.) Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful.)
5.) Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets. Repeat for the hot water side.
6.) Flush toilet until antifreeze is visible inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
7.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.

DEWINTERIZING YOUR RV
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN ON THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM ONCE THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE THE WATER SYSTEM, FLUSH AND SANITIZE PRIOR TO USE.
1.) Drain all holding tanks, (fresh water and sewage).
2.) Attach garden hose to fresh water fill and fill tank.
3.) Turn ‘ON’ pump switch and open cold water side of all faucet/shower fixtures. Leave open until the water runs clear, (no pink residue). Repeat for the hot water side.
4.) Flush toilet until clear water runs into bowl.
5.) Dump tanks again.
6.) Sanitize the water system.
7.) If a water filter has been installed, drain the lines, remove the assembly, clean and reinstall using a new filter.
8.) When ready to use the water heater, turn by-pass valve to open position to allow water to enter and fill the hot water heater tank.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:22 PM   #22
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I have in the past in previous trialers poured the antifreeze into the fresh water tank and used the pump to circulate the antifreeze while drawing out of the fresh water tank. I found I had to flush the fresh water tank for along time to get the residue out and you need alot more antifreeze. By using one of the kits mentioned above to be able to draw the antifreeze out of the container none of the antifreeze gets in the fresh tank. The rinsing of the system is much easier and probably in what you save in one year in extra antifreeze you could probably pretty much pay for the kit .
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #23
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Living in an area with deep freezes and having too much experience with frozen "stuff" in the winter, I'm paranoid enough to blow it all out with air pressure AND put antifreeze thru the system. I put enough in the fresh water tank for the pump to pick it up and move it, then just drain the leftover from the tank back into a jug and reuse it since it should still be completely clean. I really like knowing that anything left in the pump or anywhere in a line or toilet is not going to freeze. And it gets into the drains as per Reace's instructions that way too.

In the spring I always flush the system with bleach anyway to kill any badies- so the rinses for that gets any antifreeze taste out too. I did learn the hard way with our Scamp to never get antifreeze into the hot water heater!
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:37 PM   #24
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All of this talk of winterizing the Escape has got me feeling a little depressed and envious of those of you who are living to the south of us in warmer (much much warmer) climates. Our camping season here in Alberta (at least northern Alberta) is definitely much too short for my liking. Having experienced the unpredictability of Alberta winters, I was thinking that waiting till about early to mid-October to winterize should be OK. However, will have to be prepared to do so on very short notice if the weather forecast calls for a cold snap before then. For those of you in similar climatic zones, does this seem about right?
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:51 PM   #25
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Dave,
How about a small heater, like a 400 watt unit that I use 24/7 over the winter, leave it in the bath room, never got below freezing in the trailer. Do you have electric available? That way you won't have to winterize until it gets really cold.
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Dave,
How about a small heater, like a 400 watt unit that I use 24/7 over the winter, leave it in the bath room, never got below freezing in the trailer. Do you have electric available? That way you won't have to winterize until it gets really cold.
Unfortunately Jim, the climate here is a little bit more severe than you may be used to. It is not that unusual to have cold snaps in mid-October where the temperatures drop to -20C. On the other hand, it is not unusual to have really mild weather extending into December. Winter type conditions will typically be around from about November to end of March, but warmer or colder conditions can prevail during that time. Although it is a little different every year, our "winter" weather can easily get down to -30C or colder and stay that way for weeks at a time. There is really no way that a small electric space heater in the Escape could keep up to such extreme cold. When winter comes, I am going to have my Escape winterized and packed away, all ready to go again next spring.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:01 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=ice-breaker;31510]All of this talk of winterizing the Escape has got me feeling a little depressed and envious of those of you who are living to the south of us in warmer (much much warmer) climates.

Me, too. Would be nice to have camping season all year. And be able to forget winterizing.

Eric, we should just bring ours to you since you cover everything Wouldn't have to worry about the toilet valve cracking again!
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:06 PM   #28
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Well, my solution this year is to keep going south until I don't have to worry about winterizing. Hope it works!
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:36 PM   #29
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Does anyone have a source for a blowout plug that can be regulated to the recommended 30 psi max pressure for the new winterization procedure ?
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Dave,
How about a small heater, like a 400 watt unit that I use 24/7 over the winter, leave it in the bath room, never got below freezing in the trailer. Do you have electric available? That way you won't have to winterize until it gets really cold.
That can work for this short-term use in moderate weather as Jim suggests, but it's not a long-term solution, because it only takes a few hours of a tripped breaker, unplugged power cord, or failed heater to render the months of heating pointless.
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