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Old 10-08-2013, 04:32 PM   #51
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Don't forget to remove the 'strainer washer' at the city water source and push the back-flow button to release the pressured water in there. I just remembered myself!
thanks! I did actually forget! Got about half a teaspoon out of there, so good spot
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:34 PM   #52
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I've printed out the winterization instructions and read them before I start. Then I re-read after each step. I can't rely on memory.
This way, when you are done, you don't have that nagging feeling that you missed a step.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:24 PM   #53
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Dave, did you get much additional water out when you blew after draining? As I mentioned before, I got but a little spit, so haven't bothered again with the air. I won't be winterizing for a couple weeks yet. Will be using the trailer for Thanksgiving and the following weekend too. Probably after that. Overnight low temps are not supposed to drop below -2°C, so all should be fine. Will keep a watch though.
I store my trailer in our attached garage for the winter; seldom goes below freezing, and I think never below the high 20s(F). But I'm wondering: while it's out for potential use in the spring and fall, what outside temperature is likely to cause actual freezing in the water pipes? And, will heating the interior prevent damage even when the outside temps drop well below freezing? I don't have extra insulation and thermal windows (next time!); and I faintly recall a post mentioning 18 degrees(F) as the hard freeze point - whatever that means. Any thoughts on this stuff? Thanks, Glenn.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:39 PM   #54
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Glenn, I think gbaglo's got the right idea ... Print off the various steps and check them off as you go.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:21 AM   #55
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I store my trailer in our attached garage for the winter; seldom goes below freezing, and I think never below the high 20s(F). But I'm wondering: while it's out for potential use in the spring and fall, what outside temperature is likely to cause actual freezing in the water pipes? And, will heating the interior prevent damage even when the outside temps drop well below freezing? I don't have extra insulation and thermal windows (next time!); and I faintly recall a post mentioning 18 degrees(F) as the hard freeze point - whatever that means. Any thoughts on this stuff? Thanks, Glenn.
As long as you have the heat on you should be fine with the interior water lines. If the grey tank freezes, it will thaw during the day. Your black tank is inside so it should be okay. As long as your fresh is 1/2 full there is room for expansion and it should be okay.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:48 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soultrek View Post
I store my trailer in our attached garage for the winter; seldom goes below freezing, and I think never below the high 20s(F). But I'm wondering: while it's out for potential use in the spring and fall, what outside temperature is likely to cause actual freezing in the water pipes? And, will heating the interior prevent damage even when the outside temps drop well below freezing? I don't have extra insulation and thermal windows (next time!); and I faintly recall a post mentioning 18 degrees(F) as the hard freeze point - whatever that means. Any thoughts on this stuff? Thanks, Glenn.
My trailer, and others before it, saw lots of nights where temps dipped below freezing, where water bottles left outside froze up, but had no issues with the water system. Most of it is pretty much inside other than the tanks. If daytime highs are a ways above freezing, there is usually no problem. Not until temps drop and stay below freezing all day, do things start to freeze up solid.
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Old 10-09-2013, 10:54 AM   #57
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As long as you have the heat on you should be fine with the interior water lines. If the grey tank freezes, it will thaw during the day. Your black tank is inside so it should be okay. As long as your fresh is 1/2 full there is room for expansion and it should be okay.
Along with interior heating I cycle the hot water tank just before bed on cold nights. You don't have to leave it on. The heat leaking slowly through the tanks insulation lasts over night and protects the water pump and piping in close proximity in that area from freezing.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:01 PM   #58
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Right now we're looking at lows around 2C -- not quite freezing, but cold enough that water is starting to expand as it reaches these temperatures. Potentially enough to rupture lines.

I haven't done my winterizing yet. While I have removed all pressure from the system, there is still water in the lines. So I'm mildly concerned about the situation, though not enough to rush out this evening and do the winterizing in the dark -- it can wait until the weekend.

But I turned on a 60W incandescent light in the trailer (it's plugged in to the house). 60W of heat is enough to resolve my mild concern. The light is placed in the (open) hatch under the bed, so all the plumbing under there gets the benefit of the heat. For a few nights it's cheap enough, and it's easy.
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Old 10-09-2013, 01:38 PM   #59
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I wonder if I really need to winterize at all here in mild WA. We seldom get daytime lows under freezing, and we have a plug in heater we could use during those couple weeks when it is freezing for more than a few hours at a time. Average temps: Average Weather for Olympia, WA - Temperature and Precipitation The trailer is stored in our carport, so it's easy to go out and check on it. Of course, now that I've brought this up we'll have a record cold winter
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:29 PM   #60
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It really does not take much time or effort to use the low point drain to get the water out of the pipe system and to pour a bit of RV anti freeze down the drains. The biggest part is having a socket to fit the anode to remove it and properly drain the hot water tank. Don't forget to drain the ext shower hose if you have one. I will be removing the head from ours this winter as it is a fairly fragile plastic piece and can very easily split with a small amount of freezing if there is water sitting in it.

Well worth the peace of mind not having to worry in the spring if there is a break in the system because the water froze. Easier to drain than repair burst pieces I figure.

Vancouver is much like Olympia, not a lot of freezing but it does happen. We have had parts of our irrigation system freeze and split because I forgot to drain it.
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