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Old 10-09-2013, 04:06 PM   #61
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The problem with using a electric heater is if the power goes out.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:18 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
The problem with using a electric heater is if the power goes out.
AHA!
But, if the power goes out ( we were without for four days a few years ago ), my plan is to move into the trailer. Propane furnace, generator to top up the battery, cold beer in the fridge..

baglo
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:44 PM   #63
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AHA!
But, if the power goes out ( we were without for four days a few years ago ), my plan is to move into the trailer. Propane furnace, generator to top up the battery, cold beer in the fridge..

baglo
That works so long as your there to catch it. Winterizing is not a big deal. Spring repairs can be.
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:59 PM   #64
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Based on this figure showing "average daily January temperatures for January throughout North America", in my region (the Edmonton, Alberta area is dark blue on the figure), the winter temperatures are too cold to rely on anything but a proper winterization protocol.
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:41 PM   #65
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Right now we're looking at lows around 2C -- not quite freezing, but cold enough that water is starting to expand as it reaches these temperatures. Potentially enough to rupture lines.
You are right that water does start to expand at about 4C, whether heated or cooled. I would not worry in the least about a rupture unless it freezes through, as the amount is extremely small, and not at all out of the range that the Pex piping can handle. In fact the amount of thermal expansion from 4 to 20C is much greater than from 4 to freezing.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:06 PM   #66
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In fact the amount of thermal expansion from 4 to 20C is much greater than from 4 to freezing.
Jim, thanks for that little factoid. I had assumed that the expansion from 4C to ice was linear, so I learned something today. After I read your post I went looking and found an engineering site (Water - Thermal Properties) that describes the situation -- very little increase in volume until the water actually starts to freeze.

From 4C to just above freezing (0.01C in the table), the volume change is very small (0.02%). According to that table, you get the same volume change between 4C and 10C.

OTOH, from 0.01C to freezing, you get an 8% increase in volume (if I did the math right).
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:24 PM   #67
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I'm taking my Escape out for the first time this weekend (and last time of the year). I'm bringing everything I need to winterize it right in the camp site.

I have the 1 1\6 socket, antifreeze, compressor and adaptor. I hope I remember all the steps. Maybe I'll have internet access at the campground.
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:26 PM   #68
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Print it out:

How To Winterize a Trailer
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:21 PM   #69
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What kind of air compressors are you using to blow the lines out? I was thinking of renting a large Makita 2.5 hp air compressor but first used my 12 V Canadian Tire air pump I use to top up my trailer and vehicle tires and connected to the water line. To get 30 psi I had to open/close each facet one at a time. I would get short bursts of pressurized air and I got a few ounces of water out of each facet/toilet/outside shower. Then followed up with antifreeze in each trap.

I am wondering if I should redo the job with a real compressor.
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:02 AM   #70
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I bought a proper compressor. Cost about $250 with a brad nailer included. Used it once to blow out the lines on Toad and used it once to nail up baseboards in the kitchen ( that took about 15 minutes ).
I stumble over it in my side shed, it is a pain to drag out to the trailer and plug in, a pain to find the proper connectors to use it, needs to be drained of moisture after use, I have to re-read the instructions to use it. So, I don't.

I use the anti-freeze method, but pumping it through the city water connection rather than filling the fresh water tank with anti-freeze and using the trailer pump.

Anyway, I have asked and Reace is working on a revised winterizing and de-winterizing document that will be posted as a sticky. There already is one that he posted in 2010, but the revised one should be the go-to document, dealing with various methods.

Personally, I wouldn't buy a compressor again to winterize. I'd use RV anti-freeze and flush liberally in the spring ( which, I gather, is something that most people would do anyway, if there was anti-freeze in the lines or not ).
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