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Old 09-06-2015, 10:45 PM   #11
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Winterizing T valve.

Good advice, that's the one I installed. Works well and is out of the way during the camping season and ready to go in the late fall when it is time to winterize. I like using the pink stuff too. I watch for it to go on sale about this time of the year and buy a six gallon case for about $16 and use it for several winterizing projects. I low point drain my fresh water tank and I pull the Anode in the water heater tank and leave it out and isolate the inlet and outlet before I start. So no pink stuff in the hot water tank. Use a little bleach in the spring to sanitize and flush a couple of times and we're like Willy. On the Road Again. Logic logic logic and don't be tight with the winterizer.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:16 AM   #12
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Is it really necessary to fill the showerhose with antifreeze? It seems to me that the water drains out when the shower valve is turned back to the sink.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:44 AM   #13
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Hi: All... I'm vary wearisome of pink stuff in my water!!! I'd rather just blow down the entire system and leave it dry. IMHO it looks better that way. I save the pink stuff for the drains... it's cheaper that way!!! Alf
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:29 AM   #14
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On the shower head I either unscrew it where it is attached to the sink, hold it straight and open the shower head cross valve or make sure the diverter is pulled up with pump off and take the hose and head out of the holder so the hose is straight and above my head and then open the valve. The water will then drain back out of the hose for sure. Without doing this some could get trapped above the valve but below the spray head. I caught this the first year when I was making my final check of the trailer a couple of days after winterizing.
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Old 09-07-2015, 02:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
If you use the Google search site here and look up winterizing, you will find step-by-step instructions for various methods.
There are also instructions in the ETI instruction manual.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:50 PM   #16
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I had a look at the ETI instructions for RV anti-freeze. I don't want to use 6 gals. of the stuff, putting it in the fresh water tank and using the trailer pump.
I use my hand pump through the city water inlet.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:36 PM   #17
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Pink stuff

Just noticed that RV anti freeze is on sale at the local farm store for $ 2.67 per gallon so it's approaching the season. This is the good to -50 F it says but I always check the rating on the bottle so there's no bait and switch. I usually use a couple gallons to do what I need on the 19. None in the fresh water tank or in the hot water, plenty through the other lines and flushed. Pull the anode and leave that tank to dry for the winter. Rinse the scale out in the spring. Works for us
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I had a look at the ETI instructions for RV anti-freeze. I don't want to use 6 gals. of the stuff, putting it in the fresh water tank and using the trailer pump.
I use my hand pump through the city water inlet.
That's the point of a winterizing tee-valve: you can still use the trailer's pump, but avoid putting any antifreeze in the fresh tank, by inserting the valve in the line between tank and pump. The extra volume to fill the pump is negligible, and the pump itself and piping from pump to city water tee fitting is winterized.
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:08 PM   #19
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If you read the ETI instructions, it says to put up to six gallons of RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank - enough that the pump is able to draw it through the lines.
As mentioned, there are other ways.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:47 AM   #20
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I checked the pump will draw it on the 5.0TA a while back, it pumps all but 1 gallon out of the fresh tank, meaning you could get away with roughly 2 gallons of the pink if you need to do it that way. I have the T valve so 1 gallon is enough.
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