advice on some options please?
 

We were lucky enough to take advantage of a cancelled 17B that will be ready at the end of November. We are trying to finish our build sheet, and would like advice on the following:
1: additional 12 Volt outlets inside
2: the inverter with transfer switch
3: Spray foam insulation with or without heat pads
4: Are we able to have a power jack added???

Thank you for your help!

4. I can't see why you would need/want power jak unless there are health issues. But then I'd guess health issues would become a problem when hooking and unhooking

3. I'd get the insulation package. It seems that folks skip the heating pads unless you plan to camp in really cold weather.

2. The inverter will depend on how you camp. We skipped it and don't miss it. Maybe do some searches on this Forum. the inverter option is much discussed. It boils down to how you camp and what you intend to use.

1. Yes put them in, along with the solar and 2 deep cycle batteries. But, again, this depends on what your intended end use is going to be.

Think about your intended end use. Post info about that and we will be able to give more focussed advice.

Enjoy the process of decision making

Larry

1. You can't have too many outlets but you can have too few. We have added at the bed and dinette, both sides.
2. If you are considering the 1500-watt inverter, that would power the microwave or other heavy draw items and you very likely need the transfer switch to have power for those outlets. If you do not use heavy draw items, you do not need that inverter but maybe you need the lesser one.
3. If camping in cold with electric hookup, you can use the heat pads.
4. We want a certain power jack so we can get it when home cheaper than sending it to ETI and having them install it. They have a certain one, I believe.

Yes. Easier than adding one later when you find you don't have enough of them.

My stock answer: if you plan to run AC appliances or AC devices while boondocking. Otherwise, no.

Can't really speak to it. If you live and camp where it's cold, perhaps.

Yes. Escape will install an Atwood Standard Power Jack. But, you can always install a power jack afterwards. It's a very simple install, and you'll save some money. In our case we got one with better lighting, a ball bearing drive, a quieter motor and a flip-down foot, for less than the standard one. If you don't want to fool with installing it, just get the one from Escape.

We have a 17 ordered as well. Since I have back problems, one of the very first things I did when we visited ETI was try out the hand-crank tongue jack on their demo trailer. Easy as pie. SO we're not getting the power jack.
We can always install one later on if need be.

We added a 12V exterior outlet (next to the exterior 120VAC outlet), for air compressor for tires, flotation devices, etc.

The heat pads run on 12v and draw about 100 watts each. 200 watts from a battery all night long is a very significant drain, so if you decide to buy & use them, plan on being hooked up to 110v AC so your converter will supply the power instead of the batteries.

I skipped them and plan to route some water from the hot water heater (powered by propane) back into the fresh water tank to keep it above freezing in the winter. This is a mod in progress. ETI installed a return line for me (extra cost item). I also had ETI install some 12v heat tape along the plumbing pipes that run under the floor ( about 4-5 feet on the '21). It uses about 2 amps (24 watts) so not a major drain. Finally, I plan to dump RV antifreeze into the gray and black tanks when in winter service. Hopefully this will keep us operational as long as the daytime temperature get a bit above freezing.

Remember - its all a plan, not proven yet.

--
Alan

If I were having the bottom foamed, I would get the tank heat pads - they would be a real pain to add later. They take a lot of power for 12V, but if needed they can run off the converter (as already suggested) when in a campsite, and from the tug when towing. Even if they're never used, they don't weigh very much.

I like Alan's heat tracing idea, if actually trying to prepare for low temperatures. Piping (fresh and waste) is at far greater risk of freezing than tanks.

Since you asked....at least get the power jack "pre-wired". Like a 21, the batteries are in the back of the trailer and will be a PITA to do later. Will cost very little now.

Get a couple extra 12V outlets inside, but I think many overdo it.

Inverter: that's one you can do later, but if you think you may then consider the transfer switch now. It will probably cost more later.

Spray foam- maybe, if you have the $$ for some insurance for warmth; heating pads no, unless you like to ice fish.

Someone said he wired his jack by the propane tanks, did not need to go to the back.

That is for a 19 because the batteries are in the storage box. Otherwise you're maybe splicing into other wiring. For $25 probably- get it done in advance.