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T&R 03-20-2016 10:22 PM

Secondary Power Inlet
 
4 Attachment(s)
When heat is needed while camping with hookups we run a small electric space heater to not use the propane furnace. To not have to worry about tripping any circuit breakers I installed a secondary power inlet with a dedicated receptacle. So while setting up when I know we'll need the space heater I connect both the 30 amp service and another 15 amp extension cord from the site power pedestal.

I purchased this power inlet from Amazon. Installation was straightforward and I was able to run the Romex from under the dinette into the space underneath the fridge alongside the factory wiring and pass through. There was plenty of space where I mounted the receptacle and easily verified this first by using a mirror in the cabinet space under the fridge as there is no top to the compartment.

It works pretty slick and we don't have to worry about running the space heater with a coffee pot, curling iron or any other high draw devices.

Jim Bennett 03-20-2016 11:16 PM

I doubt you would even need both connected, as the A/C and heater are likely the two largest draws, and both would never be on at the same time.

It does look like a dandy idea for a quick connect at home, or even a campsite if you know your draw would be low.

Ron in BC 03-21-2016 02:02 AM

I did the same but for a different reason. My secondary power cord is only to power the winter heat lamp. I'd rather have the entire trailer electrically shut down for storage. My solar panel keeps the batteries charged.

Ron

padlin 03-21-2016 02:33 AM

We kept tripping the breaker in the am when using the microwave and the heater at the same time. In the TA there are 2 15A 120vac circuits that supply receptacles, fix was to hook the heater to the other circuit.

The hard part will be remembering to it.

JStelly 03-21-2016 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T&R (Post 133290)
When heat is needed while camping with hookups we run a small electric space heater to not use the propane furnace. To not have to worry about tripping any circuit breakers I installed a secondary power inlet with a dedicated receptacle. So while setting up when I know we'll need the space heater I connect both the 30 amp service and another 15 amp extension cord from the site power pedestal.



I purchased this power inlet from Amazon. Installation was straightforward and I was able to run the Romex from under the dinette into the space underneath the fridge alongside the factory wiring and pass through. There was plenty of space where I mounted the receptacle and easily verified this first by using a mirror in the cabinet space under the fridge as there is no top to the compartment.



It works pretty slick and we don't have to worry about running the space heater with a coffee pot, curling iron or any other high draw devices.


This has happened to us at least twice when running the microwave and space heater at the same time. Good idea! I will add it to my "to do" list. Thanks!

cpaharley2008 03-21-2016 10:04 AM

When looking for electric heaters I try to get ones that use 10 or less amps to avoid overloads, but then again I also use the stove and furnace because I do not have a microwave. I have had good results from installing these in my last 4 campers Robot Check. No cords no worries.

Jim Bennett 03-21-2016 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 (Post 133336)
When looking for electric heaters I try to get ones that use 10 or less amps to avoid overloads, but then again I also use the stove and furnace because I do not have a microwave. I have had good results from installing these in my last 4 campers Robot Check. No cords no worries.

I too am looking at something similar. Plus have no microwave, so the chance of overloading a circuit is slim. Still, I like the idea of at least two different selections for settings. Not sure now who it was here, but someone recommended using a toekick (kickspace) heater. My thought at the present is to put it in one of the stair risers, either the first or second one.

After lots, and lots, of researching, one I really like is the Myson Whispa E50. It has switches on the front that turns on either one of two elements, or both if you should really need it. I really like this feature. The elements are 800W each, so I doubt the second one would rarely be on, other than a quick warm up cold temps.
Myson E50 Electric Kickspace Heater. Myson Whispa E50 Floor Toe Kick

Still not certain I will go with a built-in heater, as to date I have had little opportunity to use one, but that may change in the future. Either way I will likely have the 14/2 wire run, and would definitely use a wall thermostat to reduce the cycling that the built in ones are known for, plus have better temperature control.

cpaharley2008 03-21-2016 10:57 AM

Jim,
I added a toggle switch to this heater and could switch between 500 and 1000 watts, just depends on how much juice you want to use. The nice thing about the built in is just that, no forgetting the heater or having to put it away, it is always there.

Jim Bennett 03-21-2016 12:06 PM

I always had my little cube heater with me, it stayed in the trailer. I still like the idea of being built in. A bit less fuss, for sure. Good idea adding the toggle. I assume like many other models, you have to otherwise rewire connections in the heater.

escape artist 03-21-2016 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett (Post 133341)
I always had my little cube heater with me, it stayed in the trailer. I still like the idea of being built in. A bit less fuss, for sure. Good idea adding the toggle. I assume like many other models, you have to otherwise rewire connections in the heater.

Hi: Jim Bennett... Seabreeze makes an off the wall cordless heater. All you need is a plug in free of obstructions. Alf Electric Fans and Heaters, Turbo-Aire, CoolSweep, HeatSweep, Slim-line - Seabreeze Electric Corporation
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie;)


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