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Old 11-13-2023, 10:47 AM   #21
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Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Lilburn, Georgia
Trailer: 2023 Escape 5.0
Posts: 11
PJ. Please check you PM. Have provided a lot more additional information. Thanks - Andy.
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Old 03-18-2024, 10:05 PM   #22
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Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Cashmere, Washington
Trailer: 5.0 TA. 2022
Posts: 8
My solution for 3500 towing 5.0

I needed a bigger truck to tow a tractor etc... so I purchased a used 2023 GMC 3500. I sold my 2015 Tundra. This created an issue for my 5.0 and truthfully, Ithnk my wife loves the 5.0 more than she loves me so I had to find a fix for this dilemma.

So this is what I did to get my 5.0 to tow level with a GMC 3500.

1. On the Tundra, I used the taller (3217) Andersen Hitch. (I am selling this hitch..pm me if interested) and replaced it with the standard Andersen hitch (3220). This hitch has a low ball setting of 16". I gained 2" to lower the nose of the trailer.


2. I spun the Andersen coupler so the ball connection was toward the rear of the truck. This solved the pin box clearance with the truck bed side rails. The pin box remains completely inside the truck bed even at 90 degrees.


3. I moved the trailer's 5th hitch up in its bracket. This allowed me to lower the trailer's nose 2".

4. I installed a 4" lift on the trailer. I called Escape about this... the engineer was not too keen on the added height (1 3/8"). The concern was about leverage on axles when going around curves at speed. He suggested that tying the two axles together with the lift would be a good idea if I were to do this. This would allow the axles to share the additional forces that may result.

Using 2"x4"x.25" steel tube I custom fit in the lift, marking holes etc. This tube is 41" long and spans the distance between both axles. To add extra strength, I installed a 8"x 10"x.25" steel plate to the back of the axle bracket and the welded frame bracket. This required some cutting to fit around the axle. I also installed 2 longer bolts to tie in the extra thickness, which now had to span two layers of additional thickness. To finish the install, two additional bolts at the bottom of the axle bracket tied all of this into one solid unit. All bolts were torqued to 150 ft/lbs. It is very strong. Note: I did not do any drilling on the trailer frame or axle brackets. I used existing holes.

Tools I used manufacture this: drill press, a step drill bit (3/4"), a 2.75" metal cutting hole saw, an angle grinder with cutting wheels.

When I installed the shorter hitch and hooked up at its low ball setting, the trailer was perfectly level. If I load the truck heavy and it settles lower, I can raise the hitch ball up. The clearance above the bed rails at all angles is 6.25 inches.

I have taken this for a freeway drive up to speeds of 65 and saw no difference in the towing traits. So I am pleased but will keep the forum updated if I run into issues...tire wear, wobbles etc.
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underneath both axles.jpeg   IMG_2213.jpeg   hitch with connector spun.jpeg   IMG_2205.jpeg   IMG_2215 (1).jpeg  

IMG_2209 (1).jpeg   IMG_2211.jpeg   IMG_2212.jpeg  
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Old 10-01-2024, 12:27 AM   #23
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Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Cashmere, Washington
Trailer: 5.0 TA. 2022
Posts: 8
Thought I would follow up on my 5.0 mod so it can tow level behind a GMC 3500.
We have towed our 5.0 about 6000 miles since this past spring.
I have been looking for issues and am happy that I have yet to find any. The tires are in good shape....no odd scuffing etc. No wobbles or tracking issues. If I find some issues I will update this post.
We live in the foothills of the East Cascades so we are usually going up or down on our trips. The Tundra got about 11 mpg towing and the GMC gets around 16. The trailer was always an easy towing rig behind the Tundra but the GMC hardly knows its there. It is nearly stress free in wind, going up long pulls or coming down long hills.
There are two cons with my set up.
1. The whole set up is 5 feet longer (now 40 ft) and the GMC 3500 turn radius is not as tight as the tundra. So I have to work a little more to back into some sites.
2. The back end of the truck is closer to the trailer, so hitching involves backing under the pin box with tailgate down...then raising the gate to complete backing under the Andersen hitch.

All in all, the mods added to tow with a large 1 ton worked out extremely well for us. The tradeoffs of easy towing, better mileage and piece of mind on long grades outweigh the slight negatives mentioned.
We are enjoying our time traveling... a highlight this summer...we traveled the southern half of Vancouver Island.
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Old 10-01-2024, 01:54 PM   #24
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Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: looking for an Escape... currently 2012 ATC Puma PopUp
Posts: 6
Good mod on the axel. Your comment that ETI said they were worried about stress on the axels while cornering has me wondering how the lifted (or any Escape) would do on rougher forest service or dirt/gravel roads.... seems like an invitation to break something? Does anyone have any experience on rough roads? I'm thinking specifically of the "Hole in the Rock" road south of Escalante, Utah.
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Old 10-01-2024, 04:39 PM   #25
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Fredericksburg, Texas
Trailer: Scamp 19, Tradewinds 24, Escape 5.0
Posts: 117
Glad you found a solution. It is a great trailer and that looks like a nice truck.
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Old 10-01-2024, 05:10 PM   #26
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Join Date: Aug 2024
Location: Cleveland, Texas
Trailer: 2024 5.0
Posts: 15
I recently picked up my 5.0 in September. I have a 2024 Ram 2500. I spent quite a bit of time measuring and knew I would need the pin box in the retracted position. My Ram has the option of lowering it 1” so that it sits pretty level. I have at least 6” clearance on the bed rail and have had no issues turning. I haven’t tried to turn 90 degrees but feel comfortable towing and backing into sites. I have the Andersen Ultimate using the Andersen bed shaft. The trailer sits very close to level. My bedside is 56” lowered and 57” in normal position. If I can figure out how to upload a picture I’ll post it.
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