Can I safely move the trailer a bit farther away from the tow vehicle?

[Vermilye]

From knowledge that I'd rather not have, be careful of "just clear" on the power tongue jack & tailgate. If the trailer is uphill from the truck, the "just" disappears. When using an extended stinger that works well when the truck & trailer are level, with the trailer slightly uphill I managed to drop my tailgate and remove both switches, the light, and much of the bottom half of the plastic on an Atwood power tongue jack. Various springs, internal parts, etc went flying, requiring a long search for enough parts to temporarily reassemble the up/down switch long enough to get the trailer out of Big Bend. I'm now the proud owner of a new"Smart Jack" and back to the standard stinger. I can open the tailgate enough to get to the tonneau cover latches.

[John in Santa Cruz]

true, mine is a manual jack.

btw, its a CURT 45260 that I'm using. about 12.5 inches from the pin to the center of the ball mounting hole, and 2" drop, class III 7500 lb rating (750 lb tongue weight).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

btw, its a CURT 45260 that I'm using. about 12.5 inches from the pin to the center of the ball mounting hole, and 2" drop, class III 7500 lb rating (750 lb tongue weight).

With a 7500 pound trailer weight rating (or anything over 5,000 lb), that's actually a Class 4 hitch. Curt uses 8,000 pounds as the division between classes 3 and 4, but it is actually 5,000 pounds according to both industry standards (the ancient VESC-5 and the current SAE J684).

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

With a 7500 pound trailer weight rating (or anything over 5,000 lb), that's actually a Class 4 hitch. Curt can be really sloppy about terminology.

hah, true. But man, their ball mounts sure fit the receivers better than that other common brand found in auto parts store chains... I had one of those, and it was like super sloppy in the recievers, and made a horrid racket banging up and down and side to side, I got rid of it fast. Ah, Reese, thats it.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

But man, their ball mounts sure fit the receivers better than that other common brand found in auto parts store chains...

Curt products have had problems, but in this case the only issue is the incorrect description. It's amusing, because using the wrong class limit value has them describing their products as a lower class than they actually are.

[John in Santa Cruz]

I've only ever used the most basic stuff from Curt, tow bars, balls, and its all been good. Better that it is stronger than the specified class rather than weaker, heh!

oh, my F250 came with a Curt brand brake controller that is actually working rather well, so I've not been tempted to replace it.

[JackW]

I had the same problem so I installed a Jack-E-Up adapter so I could remove the jack and stow it in the front cargo box. It also allowed me to rotate the jack 90 degrees so I could open the tail gate without hitting the jack head.

[CJW]

my husband drilled the holes - easy peasy -----

[superfan99]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/CURT-Dua...5220/205631966

This what I use on my 21. Clears tailgate and prevents smashing taillights into storage box while backing in tight spots.

[Rrgramps]

Originally Posted by CJW

my husband drilled the holes - easy peasy -----

Me too. Very easy; simple home owner skills. The hard part was driving to the store to get a drill bit. It was less than $10 for the drill bit, and maybe $5 for the tap. Probably less at a big box store.

I don’t own a tap handle, but used an adjustable wrench to turn the tap with. Of course,a tap wrench would’ve been better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1