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Old 06-15-2018, 05:25 PM   #41
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good bed slides that can carry the cargo of a 3/4 ton longbed are rather expensive. and they take 3-4" away from your load height. and of course, these can only be used if you're not hitched, AND if the truck is parked dead level, with 6-8 feet of space behind the truck for the extended slide...

you can get a 2-step that attaches to the tailgate and folds up inside the truck when its closed... thats even a factory option on some of the newer fords. My 2002 F250 longbed is almost 4' tall under the Leer shell, so I can crab walk to the front of the bed without having to be on my hands and knees (I'm 6' tall), so what I do is stage a bunch of stuff in the back of the bed, leaving me room to get past it, then crabwalk up to the front and move that bunch up to the front of the bed, then repeat. unloading is the opposite. of course, its even faster if you have someone to help you stage stuff...
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:45 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by currinh View Post
We just obtained a RAM 2500 crew cab short bed pickup. Didn't want to think about limits when towing out '19. Love the pickup, the only negative is the height of the bed (we're short).

We have an ARE canopy on order, flat with the top of the cab. The reason we got the pickup, and now canopy, was for a shed on long trips. Our XTerra just didn't have the room or capacity for fulltiming. We had a Tacoma with a Snug-Top canopy some time ago. Liked the storage and didn't find the visibility to be a problem. It was a pain to get to stuff in the front of the bed though. For visibility the RAM has giant side mirrors.

I suspect we'll need a good way to get stuff into and out of the bed. First this will require a step stool or step ladder. But getting stuff from the front of the bed could be a problem, we plan to have the space full.

I like the idea of a Bedslide or similar. Or even the same "bed slide" with drawers. This would raise the bed another foot or so but ooohhh the extra storage.

Has anyone used these or similar systems? Sure would like to get some feedback.

Thanks.
ARE sells a shell with long side panels that open to give you access to either side of shell. It is a panel not a window. Pretty handy for craftsmen and those that need access without having to crawl in from the tailgate.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:52 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Have to think about access with a bed slide.

My RAV4 sucks for access when hooked up. The rear door can only be opened about 6" before hitting the trailer hitch. Tools and such are under the floor at the very rear of the vehicle. Anything stacked on the hatch has to be removed, via a rear passenger door, so that I can lift the hatch.

Almost enough to have me look into a new vehicle.
Check out Jack E Up. https://jack-e-up.com/

Keep your Toyota.

2nd mouse gets the cheese. Don't know 'bout no holes.
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Old 06-16-2018, 01:27 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
good bed slides that can carry the cargo of a 3/4 ton longbed are rather expensive. and they take 3-4" away from your load height. and of course, these can only be used if you're not hitched, AND if the truck is parked dead level, with 6-8 feet of space behind the truck for the extended slide...

you can get a 2-step that attaches to the tailgate and folds up inside the truck when its closed... thats even a factory option on some of the newer fords. My 2002 F250 longbed is almost 4' tall under the Leer shell, so I can crab walk to the front of the bed without having to be on my hands and knees (I'm 6' tall), so what I do is stage a bunch of stuff in the back of the bed, leaving me room to get past it, then crabwalk up to the front and move that bunch up to the front of the bed, then repeat. unloading is the opposite. of course, its even faster if you have someone to help you stage stuff...
Ahhhh John ….mmmm ... do you have a video of you doing the "crab walk?"

Yes, I agree that the commercial bed slides do take away some 'under the cap' height. I'm trying to design one for myself that will be lighter in weight and lighter on my wallet. Unfortunately this project will have to wait as I lost my head and took on a job for the summer. Must have been a severe vitamin shortage ….

Some commercial bed slides offer brakes for use on hills. I'd like that.... some offer 'stops' every so many inches. Most smaller units are designed to support 1000 lbs @ 75% extension. I'd like 500 - 700 lbs @ 100% extension (max). Looks like a couple inches of slide deck height will allow it to clear my tongue jack …. yeah … if so … perfect.

I drive an '09 Tacoma with auto and v6. Is this the same as your '08 pulling your 21? Oh wait … I see your reference to a 2002 F250 you must have switched tow vehicles.

Tom

Wish my knees would allow me to crabwalk anywhere.
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Old 06-16-2018, 01:40 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Have to think about access with a bed slide.

My RAV4 sucks for access when hooked up. The rear door can only be opened about 6" before hitting the trailer hitch. Tools and such are under the floor at the very rear of the vehicle. Anything stacked on the hatch has to be removed, via a rear passenger door, so that I can lift the hatch.

Almost enough to have me look into a new vehicle.
Glenn …. originally I thought my '98 Cherokee might work as my tow vehicle. My first issue was like you my top hinged back hatch door wouldn't clear my tongue jack. A longer stinger fixed that and allowed my back hatch to fully open … it was a cheap fix.

One that worked out when I switched to my '09 Tacoma. The trucks tailgate when down clears the jack by about a 1/4" …. or .635 cm for you guys.
Maybe a longer stinger would help you. The extra couple of inches does however aggravate the effective tongue weigh leverage on my rear suspension somewhat.


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Old 06-16-2018, 01:49 AM   #46
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Nope. It just sucks.
The door hinges are on the right side. If I cleared the hitch, I'd then hit the jack post and the door would maybe open 10 inches.

Sometimes, things just suck.
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Old 06-16-2018, 02:11 AM   #47
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Oh sorry … just trying to help. Forgot about the side hinges.

Maybe you could take a Sawzall and cut a "mini door slot" in your rear hatch to clear your jack post. A body shop might be able to make it look like 'original equipment'. REALLY! Over the years it has sounded like your RAV has been a great tow vehicle.

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Old 06-16-2018, 09:26 AM   #48
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The RAV is good, but for that rear door.
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Old 06-16-2018, 02:10 PM   #49
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I have an ARE camper top on my F150. Bought it used the sides have no windows, just pop open fiberglass doors. Thought I would hate it, but I love it!

Mine is the TW series, taller in the rear, which makes accessing stuff so much easier!

I kind of got this one by chance. We were leaving on a trip in a couple of weeks and finding one USED that fits your year and model truck can be challenging. When I showed up at the sellers house and noticed the solid sides I told him “no thanks”. He told me II really want it gone so what would it take for you to buy it. I made a low offer, hey I hated it! Guy took it.

Once I got it on the road I love it.
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Old 06-16-2018, 03:33 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena View Post
Ahhhh John ….mmmm ... do you have a video of you doing the "crab walk?"

Yes, I agree that the commercial bed slides do take away some 'under the cap' height. I'm trying to design one for myself that will be lighter in weight and lighter on my wallet. Unfortunately this project will have to wait as I lost my head and took on a job for the summer. Must have been a severe vitamin shortage ….

Some commercial bed slides offer brakes for use on hills. I'd like that.... some offer 'stops' every so many inches. Most smaller units are designed to support 1000 lbs @ 75% extension. I'd like 500 - 700 lbs @ 100% extension (max). Looks like a couple inches of slide deck height will allow it to clear my tongue jack …. yeah … if so … perfect.

I drive an '09 Tacoma with auto and v6. Is this the same as your '08 pulling your 21? Oh wait … I see your reference to a 2002 F250 you must have switched tow vehicles.
my f250, the slides I looked at were rated at 2000 lb payload with a full 8' extension (as the f250 is a longbed), they also required bolting the slide rails through the bed floor to the truck frame.

my Tacoma is a 6-speed stickshift, 4.0 V6, TRD Off Road 4x4. Towing with it was immensely better after I installed RideRite airbags...
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Old 06-16-2018, 04:02 PM   #51
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Camper shell. As you can see, opening side panels go almost the entire length, pretty handy. Blacked out fiberglass, so its a little more secure although you can still see the stuff through the back hatch.

[IMG]IMG_8621 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]


[IMG]fullsizeoutput_8a0 by wrk101, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:53 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by NCBill View Post
I have an ARE camper top on my F150. Bought it used the sides have no windows, just pop open fiberglass doors. Thought I would hate it, but I love it!

Mine is the TW series, taller in the rear, which makes accessing stuff so much easier!

I kind of got this one by chance. We were leaving on a trip in a couple of weeks and finding one USED that fits your year and model truck can be challenging. When I showed up at the sellers house and noticed the solid sides I told him “no thanks”. He told me II really want it gone so what would it take for you to buy it. I made a low offer, hey I hated it! Guy took it.

Once I got it on the road I love it.

The ARE TW cap is what I'm planning to order for my Ram 1500. I would love to find one used, but I've had no luck. I plan to rig up a thin wooden framework for a storage area in front behind the cab and down one side that will also double as a camp bed until I can get my Escape (or Bigfoot). As for getting stuff from the truck bed, I just put the tailgate down, hop up to sit on it and then get up to get whatever I need in the truck bed, no fuss, no muss.
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Old 06-20-2018, 01:58 PM   #53
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The ARE TW cap is what I'm planning to order for my Ram 1500. I would love to find one used, but I've had no luck. I plan to rig up a thin wooden framework for a storage area in front behind the cab and down one side that will also double as a camp bed until I can get my Escape (or Bigfoot). As for getting stuff from the truck bed, I just put the tailgate down, hop up to sit on it and then get up to get whatever I need in the truck bed, no fuss, no muss.
I cast a relatively wide net to find mine. Given I live in a relatively remote area, I searched Atlanta (200 miles one way) and Charlotte (120 miles away) C/L. The one I bought was Atlanta. Its a little easier finding one for an F150 as it is the number 1 selling vehicle in the USA.

People go through camper tops: sell their truck, change plans, or whatever. New they are really expensive! I'm a used guy, but it almost backfired on me (I had one option, it was 200 miles away, it was the wrong color, and not the style I was looking for). But with a month long trip less than two weeks away, I bought it figuring I would just sell it when I got back from the trip. I was kind of kicking myself for not buying a new one.

Ended up really liking this particular top so all ended well!
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:35 PM   #54
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I have had hard camper shells on all my TV's because it gives dry storage for things that I don't want to [or cant] stuff into the camper. I totally use my outside mirrors for backing up so visibility is not an issue. My shells all varied in weight from 70-90lb so weight isn't an issue. If I bought a new TV tomorrow, I would immediately put a shell on it. As to gas mileage, I checked two of my trucks before and after. One showed no mpg change and the other showed about .5 mpg improvement.
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Old 06-20-2018, 04:38 PM   #55
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FWIW, ARE weight estimate for the TW version on a full sized truck is 190 to 200 pounds. This weight cuts into your payload capacity, so if you are marginal on payload, a camper top will likely put you over the limit.
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