Chevy Factory Trailer Brake Controller

[Barry Griffin]

Anybody seen this issue? Factory installed trailer braking module failure.

We bought a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ and tow a 2018 Escape 21. Our previous truck was a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT that had an aftermarket trailer brake controller which worked flawlessly. When we switched to the new truck, the factory brake controller worked for about 2000 miles of towing then began a “cycling type” routine that has proven maddening. So the situation now is this: we plug in the 7-way connector and begin to tow; the trailer brake controller shows that we have trailer brakes; the controller then chimes and shows that we do not; then we do, then we don’t, etc. This cycle repeats for 10 – 15 minutes all the while sounding an annoying chime, then quits all together. Then we can drive in peace for the rest of the ignition cycle although without trailer brakes.

We go to a Chevy dealer without the trailer and they find two codes on the controller (C1114 and B053D), but power is present at the brake circuit at the 7-way receptacle. They conclude the problem is with the trailer. We go to an RV repair place and they replace the 7-way plug, because truly, it did not fit well. They then test all the lights and indicators and find they work. When power is applied to the brakes through the 7-way connector and the brake controller is on, we can lock the trailer brakes. The brake controller still goes off and on intermittently. We go to another Chevy dealer pulling the trailer; they disconnect the 7-way plug, stick in a test plug, and find that power is intermittent on the brake circuit.

What the hell is going on. We need our trailer brakes. Here’s an NHTSA bulletin about it:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...73714-9999.pdf

If any of y’all got any info here, we’d surely like to know. Thanks.

[steve dunham]

There was a discussion on this forum about the same issue back in 2017 ( I would post a link if I knew how )
If the 7 pin receptacle on your truck was made by Pollak and the cord cap on your trailer is a Bargmann , the cord cap does not fit properly / tightly in the receptacle .
My Ram 1500 has the Pollak receptacle and if I don’t secure the cord on my Escape to the Pollak receptacle , I’ve had the lights / brakes cut in and out
On my 2013 Casita I replaced the Bargmann cord cap with a Pollak cord cap and the problem was solved
Both the truck and the trailer tested good , it was simply a poor connection between parts

[cpaharley2008]

Great memory recall there Steve......

[Dream]

Barry Griffin I am following your post having a 2020 GMC Sierra in the garage awaiting a 21NE in December. Let us know how you solved the issue.

[Barry Griffin]

Will do. No solution yet. Just some info: Pollak connector on truck; replaced cord cap on trailer to get better fit. I don't know the brand of the cord cap but it fits tightly now. Tighter fit did not solve the problem.

[skiman]

Our Bargman connector fits poorly on our 2014 Chevy. I purchased a Pollak connecter that fit great but was concerned with introducing a bunch of new screw connections onto the Escape. My acceptable solution was to put several wraps of electrical tape on the plug and use a camco superclamp to keep it in place. Works pretty well, no lost connections.

[oldwave]

Related topic. Does anyone use dielectric grease on their 7 pin connectors?
I spray contact cleaner once in the last three years.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Related topic. Does anyone use dielectric grease on their 7 pin connectors?
I spray contact cleaner once in the last three years.

A friend used dielectric grease on mine and I couldn't get the lights to work until I removed all I could. Dielectric grease is an insulator. It does not conduct electricity. It is intended for use on a spark plug boot to prevent moisture from getting to the contacts.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Related topic. Does anyone use dielectric grease on their 7 pin connectors?
I spray contact cleaner once in the last three years.

I use a CRC product especially each spring as protection from corrosion. I clean the vehicle plug up to get salt deposits off and then spray down. Seems to keep things functioning well and makes the trailer plug slide on easier. of course it could be getting the grit off the prongs also. It’s a contact cleaner in a yellow spray can. I had a neighbor that used it. When he moved, the movers would not pack it nor would they pack carburetor cleaner and a number of other common garage shop products so he brought a boxful over and gave it to me. I’ve used it ever since. I like several of the CRC products.
Iowa Dave

[Dream]

Barry Griffin, I got to thinking about your issue and re-read the post. Am I wrong to think you have something wrong with the built in brake controller in your truck? "The brake controller still goes off and on intermittently. We go to another Chevy dealer pulling the trailer; they disconnect the 7-way plug, stick in a test plug, and find that power is intermittent on the brake circuit". Seems to me the dealership should first replace the trailer brake controller, but I am certainly not an electrical expert nor mechanic. Make any sense to you?

[Barry Griffin]

I do not think you are wrong to think the fault is with the brake controller. That's what we think. Especially since the trailer brakes will lock when the brake controller is on. And further, we made certain that the connection of the 7-way plug was secure. Thanks for re-reading.

[Hawkeye49]

Curious if the power supply for brake controller is protected by an automatic reset circuit breaker in lieu of a fuse? (Common on electric trailer brakes for safety reasons) Overload on breaker or faulty breaker would make the breaker "pop" (power interuption) then reset after brief cool down period. Wish I were there to sort this out for you, I love these puzzles! My $0.02

[Barry Griffin]

Okay. Here’s the low down on the trailer brake controller. The problem laid not with the controller, but the trailer brakes. Even though I felt the trailer brakes come on when I applied the brakes and the controller was showing “on”, the trailer was only applying brakes on one wheel.


I found this out because I connected an ammeter in series with the blue trailer brake wire and battery + wire on the trailer cone plug. ETI told me that each brake magnet ought to pull 3 amps, and the complex of four ought to pull 10-12 amps. The meter read 4 amps. I further checked underneath the frame and found that the wires on both sides of the front axle had pulled out of the conduit.


So, I took the trailer to our trusted, local mechanic who wired back in the two front brakes and further found that the wires on one rear axle brake had pulled out of the crimp connectors but not yet out of the loom. The wires on the remaining brake were frayed at the connectors. All four brakes have now been connected to their wires with crimp and shrink connectors and the braking ability of the trailer is no longer questionable. Furthermore, the brake controller does not now signal an intermittent connection nor display service messages on the truck’s information center.


So, I owe Chevy and apology for jumping to the conclusion that the brake controller was at fault. Hear, hear Chevy, sorry. Jeff Drennen Motors in Zanesville, OH got it right the first time.
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[camp4528]

Thank you very much for providing this update. All too often, we never hear of the outcome.

I’ve seen some discussion of crimping issues with various trailer connections so it’s good to know one more set of connections need to be added to the checklist.

And as a possible GMC truck owner, it’s also good to know that the TV systems all worked as they should.

[Barry Griffin]

My wife says I ought to add that we boondock in national and state forest service sites. So we get sticks, leaves, etc underneath. We've probably got 40 thousand miles on our 2018 and 250 - 300 days.