Chocking

[PM15283]

Originally Posted by padlin

They pop out if you forget about them and try to drive away.

That stopped happening to me when I attached 4 ft. of flagging tape on each side. No matter which direction the wind, one tape is always visible.

[dfandrews]

Our 4 rubber chocks are now painted orange on their edges, so we're more likely to see them and not leave them.

[gbaglo]

I've considered painting my flouro orange and green chocks dirt brown so they wouldn't mess up pictures of the trailer. Instead I open in Photoshop and play with the hue and saturation.

[akmacs]

I have these wheel chocks and they were the best accessory I have purchased thus far our trailer. I did buy x-chocks but only used then twice and they have been in the box since. The chocks are a soft pliable rubber and hold fantastic by themselves and we don't notice hardly any trailer movement when chocking just one side but I do chock both sides when possible. If the site is mostly level we usually just stay connected to the TV unless we need to drive somewhere but I still chock to minimize movement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[MyronL]

This home-made combination has worked for me.

[Iowa Dave]

Better than a poor man’s balXChock it’s a talented man’s X Chock.
Iowa Dave

[cpaharley2008]

Myron is definitely a "do it yourself" person.....

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by MyronL

This home-made combination has worked for me.

And me too.

I once forgot to remove the driver side chock and attempted to drive away - except that my trailer behaved like it was chained to a tree.

--
Alan

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I've considered painting my flouro orange and green chocks dirt brown so they wouldn't mess up pictures of the trailer. Instead I open in Photoshop and play with the hue and saturation.

I’ve had pretty good luck with the paint durability on my Andersen blocks for the stabilizer jacks. A few small chips here and there but the spray paint is holding up better than expected and that is black over the original red. I say go for it.

[dfandrews]

Aug. 28: just got the latest Harbor Freight sale flyer. Page 7 has the solid rubber wheel chocks for $5.99.

[Gori]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The best chocks I have used are the Fastway ONEstep. The trailer is not going to move with these in place and they will not pop out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

16"-24" or 16"-30"?

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Gori

16"-24" or 16"-30"?

I recommend the shorter ones. The longer ones will fit, but just barely and are harder to get into place, and then you can’t lock them with a padlock as the holes are all covered. I have the short version. My neighbor has the long one. We both have 2G 19’s.

[Jake930]

Originally Posted by Gori

16"-24" or 16"-30"?

Will the 16 - 24” work with a 21 also? Or will the longer ones be needed?

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Jake930

Will the 16 - 24” work with a 21 also? Or will the longer ones be needed?

The wheel spacing on all the dual axle ETI trailers visually appears to be the same, and if it does vary, it’s not by much, so I’d think the shorter Fastway’s would be the better choice for all trailer models. Excepting 17’s, of course. Perhaps one of our technical gurus knows for certain whether the spacing varies or not. But even if it were several inches more than on a 19, the shorter chocks would still fit just fine.

[stratos175]

I have the Harbor Freight chocks and they work great. I chock both sides, I have used X ball jacks once when I thought it was the best thing to do on a bad site.
I think better to be safe then sorry.
Now the stabilizers if I'm by myself 50/50 if I bother with those.

Enjoy the journey.

Steve

[cpaharley2008]

My E19's and E21's had same spacing between wheels.

[Iowa Dave]

Also saw the 1/2 in torque wrench on the front cover of this flyer for $9.99. We tested this wrench against a couple of very good wrenches and in the 65 to 90 ft lb range it was nuts on.
Probably last the average Escape owner many years. Less money than the freight to ship a good wrench in for recalibration.
A single 13/16 socket and a cheap 1/2 x 6 inch extension from a store that sells individual sockets or a garage sale and you’re good to go.
Iowa Dave

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by MyronL

This home-made combination has worked for me.

And me too!

[Gori]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

I recommend the shorter ones. The longer ones will fit, but just barely and are harder to get into place, and then you can’t lock them with a padlock as the holes are all covered. I have the short version. My neighbor has the long one. We both have 2G 19’s.

Those chocks look nice and easy to apply. What kind of levellers do you use with them? I like the idea of the drive on type, but I am a camper trailer neophyte as yet.

Gori

[Fox hunt]

i level then just use the rubber ones from harbor freight they work well for me i often don't even put down the rear stabilizers- i don't mind it the trailer moves a bit kinda like a boat! i think i bought all the stabilizer stuff but with good rubber chocks i don't think its going any where.