Coupler latch Not Closing Properly. Please Help

[L in NV]

I received delivery of my trailer last month and have had a hell of a time with the coupler latch. Granted, I'm new to this but the delivery driver struggled mightily and I called a local hitch guy to adjust the height of the e2 since I got a new TV and the hitch height needed to be adjusted, and he said something wasnt right with it either.

Take a look at the video below. Any advice or tips are greatly appreciated!

https://streamable.com/sbhl0c

[rbrandenstein]

I have to pull my TV forward to bring the ball to the front of the socket, this allows the latch to close.

[Iowa Dave]

Make sure the latch lever is all the way up. Look under the coupler to see that the yolk is all the way to the back of the coupler. Grease with a little lithium grease up inside the coupler housing. Put some grease on the ball. Back about 3/4 the way under the coupler with the reciever ball. Slowly lower the coupler onto the ball letting the coupler “crawl” over the ball till the jack foot comes off the ground. Attempt to flip the locking lever down. If it goes you’re golden. If not, like Bob says “get in tow vehicle start it up , put in gear and give the rig a little jerk. Then try to push latch over center. If it won’t go something may be bent. Be wary of beating on the latch lever to force it. You can snap them off or bend them worse. Call Escape and relate details.
That’s all I got
Iowa Dave

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Make sure the latch lever is all the way up. Look under the coupler to see that the yolk is all the way to the back of the coupler. Grease with a little lithium grease up inside the coupler housing. Put some grease on the ball. Back about 3/4 the way under the coupler with the reciever ball. Slowly lower the coupler onto the ball letting the coupler “crawl” over the ball till the jack foot comes off the ground. Attempt to flip the locking lever down. If it goes you’re golden. If not, like Bob says “get in tow vehicle start it up , put in gear and give the rig a little jerk. Then try to push latch over center. If it won’t go something may be bent. Be wary of beating on the latch lever to force it. You can snap them off or bend them worse. Call Eacape and relate details.
That’s all I got
Iowa Dave

Hi: Iowa Dave... For this very reason we always travel with a "Little jerk". You never know when it comes in handy. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Iowa Dave]

I know how you travel Alf and you can call that Maple whisky anything you want. I travel with a little jerk myself and sometimes a little jerky.
Iowa Dave

[HABBERDABBER]

Before you go off on a tangent, just spray or apply some lubricate on the mechanism. Lithium lube is a suggestion. And grease your stinger ball, with grease.


A little lubrication goes a long, long way for mechanisms to function.

[Brian B-P]

The video (thanks for making that! ) pretty clearly shows the problem: when the yoke is fully down over the front of the coupler body (meaning that the jaw under the back of the ball is pulled fully forward to couple, as it is a couple of seconds into the video) the small rounded tabs of hinged latch lever do not line up with the slots where they should go (as you explain around 24 seconds). The part of the yoke where the lever pivots is bent forward, as you seem to understand as you hit it rearward with the heel of your hand (around 9 seconds).

Either the yoke was defective, or someone trying to force it has bent it; either way, it can be pounded or pried back to where it should be. Of course it is wise to report the problem and request resolution before applying any force (and marring the obviously original finish), and potentially being blamed for damaging it.

Everything moves freely when not on the ball, but it still doesn't latch due to the misalignment of parts, so the fundamental issue is not with lubrication... although once corrected it still will be easier to use if properly lubricated.

[Rossue]

It is not the E2 Fastway that is the problem. Another POS cheapskate ETI coupler issue. Do they never see these posts? The RAM (China) is total crap IMO. Lucky for me I thought we had an Atwood and they paid to replace with a real Atwood. No problems since. That was during the probable hostile takeover of Atwood by Dometic. My RAM yoke was opening even with the lock pin in place. If doing again would get a Bulldog as Dometic killed the Atwood coupler. Sucks.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Rossue

It is not the E2 Fastway that is the problem.

True - the thread title is misleading, as the problem shown in the video is entirely related to the coupler and "E2" is the name of the unrelated weight distribution system.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

True - the thread title is misleading, as the problem shown in the video is entirely related to the coupler and "E2" is the name of the unrelated weight distribution system.

You're right - I fixed it.

[L in NV]

Originally Posted by L in NV

I received delivery of my trailer last month and have had a hell of a time with the coupler latch. Granted, I'm new to this but the delivery driver struggled mightily and I called a local hitch guy to adjust the height of the e2 since I got a new TV and the hitch height needed to be adjusted, and he said something wasnt right with it either.

Take a look at the video below. Any advice or tips are greatly appreciated!

https://streamable.com/sbhl0c

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The video (thanks for making that! ) pretty clearly shows the problem: when the yoke is fully down over the front of the coupler body (meaning that the jaw under the back of the ball is pulled fully forward to couple, as it is a couple of seconds into the video) the small rounded tabs of hinged latch lever do not line up with the slots where they should go (as you explain around 24 seconds). The part of the yoke where the lever pivots is bent forward, as you seem to understand as you hit it rearward with the heel of your hand (around 9 seconds).

Either the yoke was defective, or someone trying to force it has bent it; either way, it can be pounded or pried back to where it should be. Of course it is wise to report the problem and request resolution before applying any force (and marring the obviously original finish), and potentially being blamed for damaging it.

Everything moves freely when not on the ball, but it still doesn't latch due to the misalignment of parts, so the fundamental issue is not with lubrication... although once corrected it still will be easier to use if properly lubricated.

this is exactly what is going on. i tried gently banging on the yoke (i believe thats what the heel of my hand was hitting?) and it did move back some which allowed the teeth to sit correctly. i applied some silicone spray and it appears to be working better but its definitely still not aligned correctly. i'm waiting for escape to get back to me as they're closed through jan 3. i'm not sure if silicone spray is ok for this application but thats what i had. thank you!

[L in NV]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

True - the thread title is misleading, as the problem shown in the video is entirely related to the coupler and "E2" is the name of the unrelated weight distribution system.

sorry. i'm new and didnt realize it wasnt part of the coupler--thanks for explaining.

[L in NV]

Originally Posted by Rossue

It is not the E2 Fastway that is the problem. Another POS cheapskate ETI coupler issue. Do they never see these posts? The RAM (China) is total crap IMO. Lucky for me I thought we had an Atwood and they paid to replace with a real Atwood. No problems since. That was during the probable hostile takeover of Atwood by Dometic. My RAM yoke was opening even with the lock pin in place. If doing again would get a Bulldog as Dometic killed the Atwood coupler. Sucks.

if i were to get a bulldog as you suggested i'm guessing this would involve welding? i'm trying to make my life as easy as possible and dont mind spending a few more bucks but i did *just* receive my trailer and would prefer not to spend more $$!

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by L in NV

if i were to get a bulldog as you suggested i'm guessing this would involve welding? i'm trying to make my life as easy as possible and dont mind spending a few more bucks but i did *just* receive my trailer and would prefer not to spend more $$!

Once the misalignment issue is resolved, the Ram coupler will be ok. My trailer has the Ram coupler as well and for the four years I've owned it, the coupler has always worked.

The Bulldog coupler is a good one but I would wait to see if it's worth the money and effort to change to one before doing it.

[Iowa Dave]

Cant go wrong with silicone on steel. Wont damage Anything and probably helped but may not last a long time. I have a squeeze tube of lithium, maybe 10oz or
So and it’s lasted for 7 years. Don’t use a lot. I keep it in my front box in a small cat litter bucket along with my hitch ball Cover (ball cover lives in a tin can when not in use) , a bottle of charcoal starter and partial roll of shop towels. Also a mini spray can of WD40. I use silicone spray on the manual awning slides a couple times a season.
Best of luck always
Iowa Dave

[L in NV]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Once the misalignment issue is resolved, the Ram coupler will be ok. My trailer has the Ram coupler as well and for the four years I've owned it, the coupler has always worked.

The Bulldog coupler is a good one but I would wait to see if it's worth the money and effort to change to one before doing it.

thanks. i'll wait for it to be fixed and then go from there.

[L in NV]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Cant go wrong with silicone on steel. Wont damage Anything and probably helped but may not last a long time. I have a squeeze tube of lithium, maybe 10oz or
So and it’s lasted for 7 years. Don’t use a lot. I keep it in my front box in a small cat litter bucket along with my hitch ball Cover (ball cover lives in a tin can when not in use) , a bottle of charcoal starter and partial roll of shop towels. Also a mini spray can of WD40. I use silicone spray on the manual awning slides a couple times a season.
Best of luck always
Iowa Dave

this is very helpful since i have a manual awning on this as well. thanks.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

... I fixed it.

Thanks.

[escape artist]

Hi: All... IMHO the tool required for this adjustment is called a "Sledge" and the technique is to know where and what to strike with it!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: All... IMHO the tool required for this adjustment is called a "Sledge" and the technique is to know where and what to strike with it!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Hi Alf
I just came across the nicest old heavy hammer about a four pounder that I got at a garage sale somewhere. I knew it had potential and when I cleaned it up it’s a beauty with a very nice handle. I have it lined up on my bench with about 6 more. I really like hammers. hatchets, axes, mauls and wrecking bars too. American, Canadian, Swedish and German Steel. Can’t beat it.
Iowa Dave