E2 hitch latch won't' close

[MyronL]

Get a plumbers hammer (straight claw). No need to "hammer it," just tap it. Gentle persuasion works every time.

[crnelson]

We have had our 21 for about two months and have had a hell of a time with that coupler. One night it took us an hour to uncouple it, FRUSTRATING!!! Just put some hitch grease on it and that seemed to help a lot, first time unhitched..

[War Eagle]

It looks to me like something beyond bending is going on with the latch. If you look at LRL's photos, the latch pivot pin is flush with the front of the coupler's ball socket. If you look at Ron's photos, the latch pivot pin is over the top center of the ball socket. Look at how much metal sticks out in front of the latch pivot pin on Ron's, setting the pivot pin further back in the latch bracket, and therefore the latch further back. On LRL's, there is almost no bracket in front of the latch mechanism, from the pivot pin being located further forward. Teeth on the latch that are supposed to slide forward and drop into the slots are already in front of those slots. Really strange! Does that make sense? Anyone else see the difference I'm talking about? Looks like two different coupler models and somehow the latch pivot pin is too far forward within the bracket that is supposed to hold it. Brian, If you haven't already, try pasting the two photos side-by-side and see what you think about how the two hitches appear to be constructed differently from the get go, especially the location of the latch pivot pin. Sorry if I'm adding more confusion than clarity....

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by crnelson

We have had our 21 for about two months and have had a hell of a time with that coupler. One night it took us an hour to uncouple it, FRUSTRATING!!! Just put some hitch grease on it and that seemed to help a lot, first time unhitched..

lube not only the interior but also the exterior part of the hitch

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I strongly suggest not hitting anything with a hammer if you don't understand what is going on. Random banging is only likely to wreck more parts.

Good advice and probably as much or more damage has been done by using force without understanding what's going on. Yet the old adage "If it doesn't work, hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't work, hit it with bigger hammer" sometimes actually works.

Speaking of photo's, I should have looked at the OP's and seen that his problem is the exact opposite of the usual problem, the pins not moving forward enough to drop in the slots.

As much as I look at the photo and at my coupler I can't for the life of me see how the pins could be that much forward of the slot without a bent part being really visually obvious.

I'm wondering what happens if the yoke pin was given a tap in the opposite direction from my photo.

Ron

[War Eagle]

If it helps anyone to figure this out, I've attached a few photos of our coupler mechanism in both open and closed positions, and it works perfectly fine (or has so far). If the OP has the same hitch (ours is the "Made in China" one), it really looks like the latch pivot pin is in the wrong place (too far forward on its support bracket), but how could that happen unless the pin is smashed in there or broken and hanging by a thread)? Lee, does any of this look remotely like what you have?

[Ron in BC]

Good photos. I think Brian did point out the problem area where he indicated that it is "probably bent here."

If you look back and forth between yours and the OP's top view photos it looks like the area Brian noted is much more vertical on the OP's yoke. That would pull the top assembly forward. How that could happen without an impact from the rear is a mystery.

Ron

[Iowa Dave]

That yolk that goes down over the coupler
Hangs up about an eighth of short of
Seating on the lip of the coupler on our Escape sometimes. I used to use a small brass hammer and give it a tap and it would
Click into place. Then one day I put
A big screwdriver on the edge of the yolk perpendicular to the edge and thumped
It with the palm of my hand. It
Clicked home and that's how I've done it ever since. It looks like it's down sometimes but needs a little persuasion. Maybe?
Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Good photos. I think Brian did point out the problem area where he indicated that it is "probably bent here."

If you look back and forth between yours and the OP's top view photos it looks like the area Brian noted is much more vertical on the OP's yoke. That would pull the top assembly forward. How that could happen without an impact from the rear is a mystery.

Ron

I agree. The assembly looks like it was somehow bent forward. Almost like someone wrapped the safety chains around the coupler and attached them to a tow vehicle and pulled forward. Hate to even suggest it but is it possible someone tried to steal the trailer?

It takes some work, but after all this talk of hammering one of these kits might be in order:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-...d/AT15775.html

[LRL]

I think those suggesting it's bent are correct... though how it got so is a mystery. Will keep you posted. Certainly don't see a way to bend it back... at least not on my own.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Almost like someone wrapped the safety chains around the coupler and attached them to a tow vehicle and pulled forward. Hate to even suggest it but is it possible someone tried to steal the trailer?

I had that thought also but it's hard to imagine why that would have happened. Getting even more speculative; if there was a coupler lock installed and someone tried to pry it forward and off with a crowbar, would it put that kind of bend in it?

At any rate, as much as I like to repair things, I'd probably be replacing it rather then bending parts back into position.

Ron

[War Eagle]

The replacement kit in Dave's post (#29) may be the easiest and cheapest way out of this. We have a utility trailer with that same coupler latch mechanism, and the only drawback is having to have a longer-shank padlock (2 1/2") to lock the latch.
The link below includes a brief video describing the replacement (Note: You'd want a kit for the 2" model).
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...d/AT15775.html

Just a note to anyone following this thread who is new to trailering and might be having trouble working the coupler latch mechanism from time to time, next time try nudging the tow vehicle forward just a tad - enough to seat the ball in the front of the coupler socket. Since the latch mechanism closes from the rear, any pressure from the rear (such as the trailer rolling forward toward the tow vehicle) will put pressure on the sliding "foot" underneath the latch, and that pressure on the foot from the rear can jam the teeth of the latch and make it very difficult to lift the teeth out of the notches. Nudge the tow vehicle forward just a bit, or rock the trailer back just a bit, and the latch should lift easily. And once the latch is lifted, the yolk should slide back easily (assuming the coupler has read the instruction book!).

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

The replacement kit in Dave's post (#29) may be the easiest and cheapest way out of this.

and might be having trouble working the coupler latch mechanism from time to time, next time try nudging the tow vehicle forward just a tad - enough to seat the ball in the front of the coupler socket. .

That kit might be a reasonable option.

Sometimes a good boot will jiggle it enough to release.

Ron

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Just a note to anyone following this thread who is new to trailering and might be having trouble working the coupler latch mechanism from time to time, next time try nudging the tow vehicle forward just a tad - enough to seat the ball in the front of the coupler socket.

This worked for us initially, but I found the screwdriver to lift it up works pretty well without having to bump the tow vehicle forward.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Brian, If you haven't already, try pasting the two photos side-by-side...

Sure, photos are attached with more rough annotations of couplers with the yoke down (closed position) and latch levers differently placed due to bent part.

At this point, if Lee's coupler were mine, I believe that I would now know where to hammer... on the bracket of the yoke (not on any other part, and certainly not the the latching lever), straight back (not down on anything), and watching to ensure that the curve of the yoke is not altered. I might even put a clamp across the yoke to keep it from spreading. I would probably contact Reace first, to see if this is what he has encountered before, such as will Bill's trailer. Of course it's not mine, and it is up to Lee to decide if he understands the situation well enough to attempt a repair.

The replacement parts kit seems like a reasonable idea, but I would try fixing the bend first, with replacement (of the parts, or of the whole coupler) as Plan B.

[Ron in BC]

The side by side photos certainly make it much clearer. I agree, it's repairable but it's up to the owner to decide if they're comfortable with doing that or just going the replacement route.

The big puzzle for me is how something like that happened.

Ron

[War Eagle]

Brian, Great job with the photos and description. Seeing the differences side-by-side almost makes me want to go find an old coupler and see just how much pounding or pulling on the latch it takes to bend the yolk that much at that location. Almost makes me want to....

[steve dunham]

Still looks like someone backed into it with their hitch to me.
That bend wasn't caused by pushing on it with your hand .
The parts kit is cheap , I would just replace it , for piece of mind if for no other reason.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Still looks like someone backed into it with their hitch to me.
That bend wasn't caused by pushing on it with your hand .
The parts kit is cheap , I would just replace it , for piece of mind if for no other reason.

Hi: steve dunham... When this happened before to another owner I think ETI got in touch with a farm implement dealer who did the hammer adjustment. I shudder to think just how this happened!!!
Last May 24 weekend while camping a fellow camper backed across the path into the front bumper of our truck. Left a ball imprint in the duck and chrome too!!! Didn't see it till back home either. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[steve dunham]

Some one put a hitch dent in the bumper of our new truck and took off . $600 later and a new rear bumper , things were back to new.
The dent was a perfect match with a trailer hitch and ball.
I understand your pain and irritation with careless people.