Front Tug 2" higher than rear with ETI installed e2 WDH.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

I would add one washer at a time to the head before I messed with the L-brackets. If the bars are parallel now with the trailer frame changing the L-brackets will change this. Adding one washer will change the head angle pushing the bars down and adding more tension on the bars. If you can get back to 31 3/4 by adding one washer I would try it there.

Thanks everyone for the thoughts.

I'll call Dennis at ETI

and also re-read the manual.
It has been a while.

At a glance it isn't obvious as to where the washers would be added to the head.

But I am sure I can figure it all out.

Once again - thanks for any and all comments, everyone.

:-)

John.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Losangeles

Thanks everyone for the thoughts.

I'll call Dennis at ETI

and also re-read the manual.
It has been a while.

At a glance it isn't obvious as to where the washers would be added to the head.

But I am sure I can figure it all out.

Once again - thanks for any and all comments, everyone.

:-)

John.

There is not a good picture in the manual showing the washers except on the parts breakdown on page 2. Pages 10 & 18 explains adjustment.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

There is not a good picture in the manual showing the washers except on the parts breakdown on page 2. Pages 10 & 18 explains adjustment.

Thanks so much Tom

Super helpful.

You are a rock star.



P. S. I meant to mention - yes the WDH arms are currently exactly parallel to the trailer frame.

[Brian B-P]

So the weight of the trailer pushes the front up by 7/8". Applying the WDH brings it back down only 1/4". More WDH action could be used if desired to get the front axle load closer to the no-trailer state.

The weight of the trailer pushes the rear down 2-1/8" inches (not unreasonable); applying the WDH brings it back up 1/4". Again, more WDH action could be used if desired... but unless that's too low for the rear, adjustment isn't needed.

Hitching the trailer (without WDH) has much more effect on the rear than the front for two reasons: the force on the rear suspension is much greater, and the rear springs are likely softer. When the WDH is applied again there is more force change on the rear than the front, but these measurements show that they moved the same amount... which suggests that the suspension probably hasn't properly settled at its new level between steps. Shocks, bushings, and tires which get moved sideways slightly with suspension travel normally bind the suspension and keep it from reaching the new height resulting from a load change until the vehicle has moved.

Originally Posted by Losangeles

With Tug mostly empty
With nothing on the tow ball.

Rear 31 1/8"
Front 31 3/8"
So front is 1/2" higher.

Since just about any vehicle sits level or tail-up without a load, I suspect that the difference here indicates only that the wheel arches are cut up higher in the front. That's normal.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Losangeles

...Update

With Tug mostly empty
With nothing on the tow ball.

...
-----

Reace told me that making these measurements on the vehicle loaded as you would have it when towing was preferable to doing so unloaded, as it more represents how much of the trailer weight you are transferring. With a load in the rear of the vehicle, the rear may normally be a bit lower. YMMV

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Losangeles

With Tug mostly empty...

As long as the load in the tug is the same at each of the three measurements, the measurements tell you how much the WDH is doing. However, since the height of tug's rear suspension and the pitch of the tug (nose up or down) both affect the WDH adjustments, it should all be done with a normally travelling load in the tug.

If you leave the WDH exactly as it is, add a pile of passengers and cargo to the rear of the tug and do all the measurements again, you'll find the WDH doing more load transfer, because the spring arms will be more bent with the tug more tail-down.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by thoer

Reace told me that making these measurements on the vehicle loaded as you would have it when towing was preferable to doing so unloaded, as it more represents how much of the trailer weight you are transferring. With a load in the rear of the vehicle, the rear may normally be a bit lower. YMMV

To clarify - other than 2 adults and one child - the Tug was loaded as it usually is for travel

As was the Escape

We travel light.

:-)

John

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by ice-breaker

Looks as if you may need to raise the arms on your E2 WDH by another notch or two to bring the tug to near its original state of levelness.

Been reading the manual again tonight.....

it says that if i'm not doing the initial setup (the initial setup was done by Dennis at ETI) then: "To correct under adjustment you must add more weight distribution force to the hitch by adding spacer washers, or raising the L-brackets."

The manual doesnt specify if adding washers is preferable to raising the L Brackets.

The manual doesnt seem to specify if the "arms" should be parallel to the frame, as far as I found so far.

I may be a chicken, but at a glance i think i'm much more comfortable in raising the L Brackets, as opposed to taking the hitch apart enough to add a washer to the guts of it.



anyone have any info to chime in?

thanks.

John

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Losangeles

The manual doesnt specify if adding washers is preferable to raising the L Brackets.

The manual doesnt seem to specify if the "arms" should be parallel to the frame, as far as I found so far.

From Page 18 of one version of the e2 instructions:

CAUTION
Over or under adjusted weight distribution decreases tow vehicle stability.
If the hitch is transferring too little or too much weight you must
make adjustments to the hitch setup. For changes during the initial setup we
recommend adding or removing spacer washers first to try and keep the spring
arms parallel with the trailer frame. This can give you more adjustment options if
needed later.
Once the maximum (3) or minimum (0) number of spacer washers
has been reached, further adjustments must be made by raising or lowering the
L-brackets. Minor adjustments later for changes in loading can usually be done by
moving only the L-brackets.

Originally Posted by Losangeles

I may be a chicken, but at a glance i think i'm much more comfortable in raising the L Brackets, as opposed to taking the hitch apart enough to add a washer to the guts of it.

I think what you need is a local friend with wrenches who likes to use them. Sorry, but Los Angeles is way out of my drop-by-for-the-afternoon range...

[Kountrykamper]

It says to move the L brackets only if you have reached the maximum or minimum number of washers.

You want to keep the arms parallel with the trailer frame. This improves the performance of the sway control.

The manual I am reading says 9 maximum and 5 minimum number of washers on page 18. Also at the top of page 18 it says to keep the spring arms parallel with the trailer frame if possible.

http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-con...tions_0212.pdf

It is harder to add washers (I had to do it 3 times) but that is the proper way to adjust it. Just takes some time and a little muscles. Washers are a finer adjustment than moving the brackets. I also found if you move a bracket you may have to change the number of washers anyway. Keep the bars parallel and work from there.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

It says to move the L brackets only if you have reached the maximum or minimum number of washers.

You want to keep the arms parallel with the trailer frame. This improves the performance of the sway control.

The manual I am reading says 9 maximum and 5 minimum number of washers on page 18. Also at the top of page 18 it says to keep the spring arms parallel with the trailer frame if possible.

http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-con...tions_0212.pdf

It is harder to add washers (I had to do it 3 times) but that is the proper way to adjust it. Just takes some time and a little muscles. Washers are a finer adjustment than moving the brackets. I also found if you move a bracket you may have to change the number of washers anyway. Keep the bars parallel and work from there.

Aha - cool - thanks Tom. Very helpful.

I have emailed Dennis at ETI... i'll wait to see what he suggests, and maybe i'll look on YouTube if there happens to be a video of how to take it apart to add washers.

I'm no expert with this, so quite concerned that I dont mess up and do something wrong.

I'm pretty handy, tho, and will be very slow and cautious.

I'll report what Dennis says... I'm mostly surprised that the difference front to back is over 2" when I remember him saying it was within 1/2" at install + pickup... yes the loading was different on the pickup day but i seem to recall tongue weight was about the same as what it is these days...

we dont carry hardly anything at all in the tug, FWIIW.

john

[bdornbush]

I had to adjust my hitch also after I brought my trailer home. Be sure that after you adjust, the trailer is level. Reace told me to measure from the belly band to the ground at the front and the rear and adjust until the measurements are the same. This will ensure that each axle of the trailer bears an equal load. As I recall, I had to adjust the number of chain lengths and the height of the hitch ball to make both the tow vehicle reasonably level and the trailer level.

[BobG]

Your measurements do not compute:

"Rear 31 1/8"
Front 31 3/8"
So front is 1/2" higher. No passengers mind you."

If the measurements for front and rear were typed correctly, the front is 1/4" higher, not 1/2". Could it be that front measurement is really 31 5/8" without trailer sitting on the ball? This should probably be checked before determining what adjustments are needed, if any?

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by BobG

Your measurements do not compute:

"Rear 31 1/8"
Front 31 3/8"
So front is 1/2" higher. No passengers mind you."

If the measurements for front and rear were typed correctly, the front is 1/4" higher, not 1/2". Could it be that front measurement is really 31 5/8" without trailer sitting on the ball? This should probably be checked before determining what adjustments are needed, if any?

brain fart on my end

you are right. 1/4"

[garysd]

Originally Posted by Losangeles

.
.
.
I have emailed Dennis at ETI... i'll wait to see what he suggests, and maybe i'll look on YouTube if there happens to be a video of how to take it apart to add washers.
.
.
.
john

John, have you heard back from Dennis? I may be having to do the same with my setup so I'm interested!

Gary

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by garysd

John, have you heard back from Dennis? I may be having to do the same with my setup so I'm interested!

Gary

I heard back that Reace and Dennis chatted, then suggested washers in the hitch body.

I'll admit that I'm very reluctant to take the hitch apart to add washers.

i do own a torque wrench, but I understand the seriousness of the task... specifically getting it put back together correctly!!!

I'd rather raise the L bars one notch, as that is very easy, from the looks of it.

I know that would mean the bars were no longer exactly parallel with the frame, and that would slightly impact the sway control function....

john

[Rossue]

I would call the hitch Mfg. to see if they are willing to advise.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by Rossue

I would call the hitch Mfg. to see if they are willing to advise.

good advice - thanks. :-)

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

It appears the head of your hitch does not have much downward pitch (if any) thus not transferring enough weight.

Are the bars hard to put on the L brackets or easy? You should have to jack the trailer and car up hitched together to get the bars on.

You may want to go through the setup again and add a washer or two to the head to increase downward pitch on the head to get more tension on the bars. Manual says you should start with 5 washers for a short SUV.

Here is the manual if you don't have it.
http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/wp-con...tions_0212.pdf

Thanks again

Update - I described my issue to Reace yesterday, and he explained a bunch of stuff as to how I can solve the issue myself. Safely

He suggested that adding 2 washers AND lowering the assembly 1 hole will fix my issue.

But I will be safe. And careful. Doing this change.

One other tip Reace gave me was to get a 18" closed end hitch ball wrench - to be cost effective (cheaper than buying the specialized wrench)

$8 at Harbor Freight, or $10 at Home Depot I found

And use a crescent wrench for the other end.

And do this while it is on the tug.

John.

[Losangeles]

Originally Posted by garysd

John, have you heard back from Dennis? I may be having to do the same with my setup so I'm interested!

Gary

Hey Gary - did you get your e2 WDH setup adjusted?

Or you taking a vacation back to ETI?



If I was as close to them as you are... that is what I would do.