Gooseneck ball placement & trifold tonneau

[drjp]

Hi. We just got a 2021 RAM 1500, 5’7” box with no ramboxes and have a raised suspension 5.0 on order. I’m planning to use a goose neck connection with an Andersen Ultimate hitch.

1. I’d like to get a trifold, hard-paneled tonneau but wonder if there are any considerations about the folded tonneau’s interfering with hooking up the fifth wheel, and especially turning? Brands of tonneau that you like?

2. What distance from the cab in short bed trucks are you typically installing the ball in the bed? ETI provides distances coupled with maximum possible turn angles before cab strike, but I’m curious what you’ve settled on.

Thanks, as always, for your considered advice!

Jonathan

[kavm]

I have very similar question - but with F150 - 6.5' box and a tri-fold tonneau. Also looking for any concerns with that type of tonneau...

[Centex]

Originally Posted by drjp

....
2. What distance from the cab in short bed trucks are you typically installing the ball in the bed?

Just FYI if you install (or have someone install) any of the vehicle-specific underbed ball mounting kits which do not require drilling the vehicle frame, the fore-to-aft location of the ball will be dictated by the requirements of the specific kit.

In my research for a particular Ford F150 I found that while all manufacturer's kits locate the ball within a few inches of the axle centerline, the exact ball location varied +/- ~4" depending on the specific manufacturer. SO, when inches are critical it may pay to research this among different available no-drill kits for your specific vehicle (don't forget to account for the fact that the CL of the Andersen ball will be offset 5.375" behind the gooseneck ball; and of course the Andersen coupler will be offset from your pin-box kingpin either 4" forward or 4" to the rear, depending on the orientation you choose for the coupler-block).

If you access the installation instructions for any given vehicle-specific underbed gooseneck kit, those will include the location for drilling the hole for the ball in the bed - usually measured from the back-edge of the bed floor (that is certainly the case with the B&W Turnoverball kits).

You may find the ability to pick-your-own exact ball location with some "universal" kits, and can certainly do that with a custom hitch fabrication from scratch.

Hope that helps.

[drjp]

It sure does help, and thanks!
Jonathan

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by Centex

and of course the Andersen coupler will be offset from your pin-box kingpin either 4" forward or 4" to the rear, depending on the orientation you choose for the coupler-block).

Hi Centex, if I am understanding what you are saying here I think a word of caution is in order. I know of no one who has successfully turned the coupler forward, thus moving the kingpin rearward. What this does is cause the kingpin to make contact with the sides of the box.

this is another hard one to understand. Many have pondered it, some have tried it but I am unaware of anyone who has their's turned toward the front.

The reason being is that the King Pin will hit the sides of the box in tight turns (turning it forward actually pushes that contact point back 8" - it was 4" behind, when turned it is now 4" forward).

Here is a post by Tom and Gay I was in disbelief during orientation when I saw they had mounted the adapter rearward, fearing the same things you mentioned. Dennis got Reace to come out and try to convince me but I still had them try turn it around to prove it to me. They were right and changed it back to rearward.

picture courtesy Chotch

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Ronn

Hi Centex, if I am understanding what you are saying here I think a word of caution is in order. I know of no one who has successfully turned the coupler forward, thus moving the kingpin rearward. What this does is cause the kingpin to make contact with the sides of the box....

Fair enough and I'll defer to your knowledge.

I didn't mean to suggest any orientation is or is not suitable for any particular application, I've no idea of the inside width or height of all pickup boxes. Just pointing out the geometries that are possible to configure per Andersen, and that all needs to be carefully considered in conjunction with the Escape 5.0 dimensions provided in the ETI 5.0 Compatibility Guidelines when outfitting a rig. That ETI Guideline document does a good job of addressing all of the various clearance considerations, IMO.

Just FYI, attached are some of the figures I used (along with spreadsheet tables of various dimensional data) to aid in my evaluation of different hitches for my particular vehicle (which has a B&W Turnoverball installed years ago for other towing needs).

In my case, while a forward-facing Andersen Coupler-Block does allow the pinbox to clear the bedsides in level conditions (the pinbox is above the bed rails), and it does provide (open / lowered) tailgate clearance not available when rear-facing (desirable), it does not provide enough bedside clearance for my comfort when the trailer is severely angled and not level to the tow vehicle (the pinbox may drop into conflict with the bed rails). My conclusions:

• Careful study is in order
• Compromises of one sort or another may be required (e.g. open / lowered tailgate clearance vs bedside clearance when making severe turns / backup angles)
• It's all very specific to the equipment selected
• The details can be devilish

YMMV

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by Centex

[*]The details can be devilish

Yes sir, I agree that the details are devilish. I struggled with this dilemma as well.

I have a short bed F150 and mounted my rail hitch farther back, almost too far as I only have about an inch of clearance to my tailgate. But it's working fine this way, I've never had a problem and I have never taken it into consideration when maneuvering. If I were to do it again I would move it 1" forward.

I have lots of room to lower the tailgate and have no problem or worry of hitting the cab. We have had our trailer two years and have not had it touch the tailgate or the cab.

[Jim Bennett]

I tried turning my pin adapter around, and after one short smooth highway trip, quickly turned it back. It brought the pin box much closer to the tailgate and sides when turning and driving through dips and humps, so I immediately turned it back.

I installed the B&W Turnover ball in my 6.5 foot bed. This works great for leaving a smooth bed with the Anderson Ultimate removed. In five years now I have only had a couple occasions where this was beneficial. If I was doing it again, I would go to the rail system and the slightly smaller Anderson hitch.

I do only have a good inch of clearance with my tailgate to the frame when open, but have learned easy ways to deal with this even when hitching at a good angle.

I do not have the lift kit, nor have I yet to feel I need it in my F-150, including lots of gravel roads and off road camping.

[HarleyD]

Originally Posted by drjp

Hi. We just got a 2021 RAM 1500, 5’7” box with no ramboxes and have a raised suspension 5.0 on order. I’m planning to use a goose neck connection with an Andersen Ultimate hitch.

1. I’d like to get a trifold, hard-paneled tonneau but wonder if there are any considerations about the folded tonneau’s interfering with hooking up the fifth wheel, and especially turning? Brands of tonneau that you like?

2. What distance from the cab in short bed trucks are you typically installing the ball in the bed? ETI provides distances coupled with maximum possible turn angles before cab strike, but I’m curious what you’ve settled on.

Thanks, as always, for your considered advice!

Jonathan

2016 F150, 6 spd, 4X4, crew cab (0 outside rear door handles). Bought used, 51,nnn miles, 6.5' bed. I think it may have been a restoration of a totaled truck, but if it is it was a super job. All MPG calculated, usually 1 to 1.5 lower than the displayed MPG. 91 octane for cleansing properties.

13 to 15 MPG in town, 14 to 16 towing in Colorado. Never had it on the highway non towing for more than an hour. The factory display read well over 20 for that hour. For another thread.

Andersen ultimate (rail) hitch. Hitch Corner installed the Reese rails. Lifted 5.0.
I have tried a couple of hitch configurations, all have worked well. I settled on the one that results having the trailer to hitch attachment closest to the rear axel centerline. Seems perfectly balanced and quieter in that position. No issues with the trailer hitting anything in the bed. I do have to back the truck up with the tailgate open to within a foot of the hitch or the tailgate may hit the trailer frame up rights. I attach the 7 pin and brake cable and close the tailgate at that point and then back over the ball perfectly straight and it works fine. Have had no issues with hitting anything anywhere after being hitched up. I couldn't imagine a better set up for me.
We also have Trifecta 2.0 folding tonneau cover that works well. It covers the hitch well to avoid theft and works well for carrying skis in the winter. It does not interfere with the hitch operation at all.
Best of luck on your informed choices!

[drjp]

“ We also have Trifecta 2.0 folding tonneau cover that works well. It covers the hitch well to avoid theft and works well for carrying skis in the winter. It does not interfere with the hitch operation at all.”

That was a doubt I had, whether using a rail hitch would interfere with the closing of a trifold tonneau cover. Sounds like not. Thanks!
Jonathan

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by drjp

Hi. We just got a 2021 RAM 1500, 5’7” box with no ramboxes and have a raised suspension 5.0 on order. I’m planning to use a goose neck connection with an Andersen Ultimate hitch.

1. I’d like to get a trifold, hard-paneled tonneau but wonder if there are any considerations about the folded tonneau’s interfering with hooking up the fifth wheel, and especially turning? Brands of tonneau that you like?

2. What distance from the cab in short bed trucks are you typically installing the ball in the bed? ETI provides distances coupled with maximum possible turn angles before cab strike, but I’m curious what you’ve settled on.

Thanks, as always, for your considered advice!

Jonathan

I have a tri fold soft tonneau cover on a 6.5 ft bed Toyota Tundra and an anderson rail hitch. Both work very well. The only thing is the cover does hide the hitch a bit for hooking up. I added a center line on the back window and the folded cover(used typing correction tape but vinyl tape could work too) and use those magnetic alignment ball things. No problems and I like being able to use the cover when we are unhooked.

[HarleyD]

Originally Posted by drjp

“ We also have Trifecta 2.0 folding tonneau cover that works well. It covers the hitch well to avoid theft and works well for carrying skis in the winter. It does not interfere with the hitch operation at all.”

That was a doubt I had, whether using a rail hitch would interfere with the closing of a trifold tonneau cover. Sounds like not. Thanks!
Jonathan

The hitch is 4+" below the tonneau with the ball in the lowest configuration.

[sofmerc]

Originally Posted by kavm

I have very similar question - but with F150 - 6.5' box and a tri-fold tonneau. Also looking for any concerns with that type of tonneau...

Newbie here, Be careful with my comments,lol. I also have a F150 6 1/2' bed and a 3 panel tonneu cover. I bought an Andersen ultimate hitch (rail version) in anticipation of purchasing a 5.0 TA. tested the fit and it looks like I need to orient the Andersen hitch having the ball more towards the tailgate to clear the cover in the 2/3rds folded position. It seems the hitch is totally approved for this by Andersen so I'm not real worried about it...yet! I bought my truck used, had universal rails installed already.

[sofmerc]

Originally Posted by kavm

I have very similar question - but with F150 - 6.5' box and a tri-fold tonneau. Also looking for any concerns with that type of tonneau...

Newbie here, Be careful with my comments,lol. I also have a F150 6 1/2' bed and a 3 panel tonneu cover. I bought an Andersen ultimate hitch (rail version) in anticipation of purchasing a 5.0 TA. tested the fit and it looks like I need to orient the Andersen hitch having the ball more towards the tailgate to clear the cover in the 2/3rds folded position. It seems the hitch is totally approved for this by Andersen so I'm not real worried about it...yet! I bought my truck used, had universal rails installed already.

[kavm]

Thank you for that, sofmerc! That is good information. I wonder if the orientation you mention is the normal way people use it.

To be clear, my preference is for the retractable tonneau - and only thinking of folding due to the additional weight and, to a much smaller extent, the loss of space.

[Murphy]

I have a Ram 5'7"' bed with a 5.0 TA. I have a Bakflip hard tonneau cover.
You have to pull the release to open each section of the tonneau cover, which could be a problem if it latches and the pin box hits it when you are turning. The previous owner made a wood piece to hold the tonneau cover up enough to prevent latching, and allow the pin box to push the cover up. Obviously, 2 sections of the cover are already opened when this happens. Don't know if this is clear?

[dcavit]

I have a Ford F150, with super crew cab and 6.5 bed. 5.0 on order. Would like to know if anyone is using a B&W Companion hitch for this configuration.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dcavit

I have a Ford F150, with super crew cab and 6.5 bed. 5.0 on order. Would like to know if anyone is using a B&W Companion hitch for this configuration.

At least one member (Bob, padlin) has the B&W Patriot, which is the same hitch but mounted on rails instead of secured to the B&W Turnoverball; his F150 has the 8-foot box. Several members use the Turnoverball, but with the Andersen Ultimate system.