Hitch ???

[Hollybee]

We picked up our 21C last June in Phoenix..was supposed to be Lake Havasu, AZ but the delivery truck had mech trouble!.
We got NO factory intro (also due to covid). We hate the trailer hitch locking system we have....it is nearly impossible to lock and even tho it "locks" there is hardly any room to pass a lock pin thru what should be those3 holes, lined up
. I am concerned that the 'hoop type' tongue lock system was bent b4 we got it and am wondering if there is anything else we can do to make it easier to lock and safe

[cpaharley2008]

Pictures of what you feel is bent would help us help you.........

[Hollybee]

Have pix and will get our "IT guy" [son in law] to post'em soon

[Hollybee]

pictures

[Iowa Dave]

I’m not an expert but it looks like some lithium grease is needed. Especially on the part of the mechanism that comes up under the neck of the ball and on the ball itself. And a spray lubricant on the sliding shaft that is vertical; the center shaft with the hole in it. WD40 would do for that.
Iowa Dave

[Brian B-P]

The tabs on the latch (top handle part) are not dropping into the slots in the coupler body as they should. The holes don't line up with each other for the same reason that the tabs don't align with the slots.

That indicates that something is bent, probably (as usual) the tab that sticks up from the yoke (part the wraps around the front) and to which the latch attaches. A bit of judicious prying with a suitable tool should fix that; no amount of lubrication will, because it's not sticking, it's bent. The jaw is moving into the correct position under the ball (as it must for the yoke to drop over the front); the issue is only with the position of the latch.

[rbryan4]

Holly, I'll probably get alot of disagreement recommending this, but here goes. Once you have time, replace the awful yoke style coupler with a collar-locking type - either a RAM or a Bulldog. You won't believe how easy it is to hookup and more importantly, to unhook. The original coupler is welded on, and so is the one I pictured, so find a good trailer shop who will cut the old one off and weld on the new one. It's relatively inexpensive, and worth every penny in my book after dealing with the stubborn stock coupler for a few years before I switched. Wish I'd done it from the beginning.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Holly, I'll probably get alot of disagreement recommending this, but here goes. Once you have time, replace the awful yoke style coupler with a collar-locking type - either a RAM or a Bulldog.

Sure, but maybe spend five minutes fixing the existing coupler for now and see how it goes. Yoke-style couplers work fine, but this Ram example tends to bend at that point, either due to manufacturing defect or due to be forced inappropriately. There is very little force on the latch when the coupler is used properly.

Originally Posted by rbryan4

The original coupler is welded on, and so is the one I pictured, so find a good trailer shop who will cut the old one off and weld on the new one.

True - almost all couplers on A-frame tongues are welded on. There isn't much point in looking for a bolt-on replacement.

[oldwave]

Our coupler has always been finicky, but it still works. I’ll replace it with a bull dog some day. Have a trailer shop, not an rv shop adjust it for you if you can’t figure it out, I’m sure your not the only owner of a trailer with these cheap couplers.

[Bobbie54]

I have problems with mine but it doesn't seem to be bent that I can tell- the part that has to slide forward so the tabs can go in doesn't slide unless the contact is perfect. The trailer has to be on level ground and it helps if the truck is, too, so lately I've been getting it on (it appears to be seated but the lever won't move) and pulling to a level spot a block away (dead end road) and then fixing it. Very annoying. I can usually get it off in my driveway, which is slightly sloped. It works fine with no ball.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Have a trailer shop, not an rv shop adjust it for you if you can’t figure it out, I’m sure your not the only owner of a trailer with these cheap couplers.

By "adjust", I assume that you mean "bend the bent part back". There is no adjustment in the coupler design (regardless of brand).

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

By "adjust", I assume that you mean "bend the bent part back". There is no adjustment in the coupler design (regardless of brand).

Right , a big adjusters. Like a pneumatic press

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Right , a big adjusters. Like a pneumatic press

I doubt it will take that - it's just a small piece of steel. It's only the weak part of the latch, not the body of the coupler. I would try a large adjustable wrench, and I was serious about the five minute time estimate.

[Hollybee]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Our coupler has always been finicky, but it still works. I’ll replace it with a bull dog some day. Have a trailer shop, not an rv shop adjust it for you if you can’t figure it out, I’m sure your not the only owner of a trailer with these cheap couplers.

Thanks guys for the input.. 1. sorry for the pix being upside down..me and the IT guy tried to turn em around w/o success.
2. The finding that the two pointed "dogs" are bent and there4 not dropping down into those 2 slots is exactly what I thought..but dang it..we were forced to pick the trailer up in a dirty parking lot in S Phoenix last June..no factory rep around and NO factory orientation..the dang coupler was THAT WAY WHEN WE GOT IT.. and FOR $38K+ IT SHOULD HAVE HAD AT LEAST A DECENT Tongue Coupler!!
Grrrrr. I am going to A. try slightly bending the 2 dogs so they fit and B if no help, get a new coupler, but the trailer is less than a year old and .........

[Hollybee]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I have problems with mine but it doesn't seem to be bent that I can tell- the part that has to slide forward so the tabs can go in doesn't slide unless the contact is perfect. The trailer has to be on level ground and it helps if the truck is, too, so lately I've been getting it on (it appears to be seated but the lever won't move) and pulling to a level spot a block away (dead end road) and then fixing it. Very annoying. I can usually get it off in my driveway, which is slightly sloped. It works fine with no ball.

Ours works fine w no ball too, but it still ps me off.

[Hollybee]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

By "adjust", I assume that you mean "bend the bent part back". There is no adjustment in the coupler design (regardless of brand).

I will try to see IF I can easily bend the thing, but I will probably let my trailer shop fix it..we are fortunate to be in "horse country" here in middle Tennessee and have several nice trailer shops around. Thanks again. Hope to see yal on the road and at the Smokie Mountains camp grounds soon.

[oldwave]

I wonder if the delivery service ran into it while backing to hook up? That would explain if it’s bent . You do have a two year warranty, you might try to get them to fix it if it’s been like that since delivery ?

[Ooshkaboo]

The trailers I’ve had all have a nut right inside the underneath of the latch that can be adjusted for a proper fit.

Try that then grease it up.

Moving the truck or trailer back or forth just a hair will help with the closing of the latch.

To unhook, pull up the latch- raise up the trailer just till you see it rising the ball a bit.

Now hop on the bumper and the hitch will disengage from the ball.

It can be frustrating but its best to become one with your equipment.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

The trailers I’ve had all have a nut right inside the underneath of the latch that can be adjusted for a proper fit.

Try that then grease it up.

Moving the truck or trailer back or forth just a hair will help with the closing of the latch.

To unhook, pull up the latch- raise up the trailer just till you see it rising the ball a bit.

Now hop on the bumper and the hitch will disengage from the ball.

It can be frustrating but its best to become one with your equipment.

As I approach 80 I decided jumping on the bumper was more of a spectator sport......so I changed out the coupler for a Bulldog. I prefer to make my equipment do what I want it to do when I want it to!

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The tabs on the latch (top handle part) are not dropping into the slots in the coupler body as they should. The holes don't line up with each other for the same reason that the tabs don't align with the slots.

That indicates that something is bent, probably (as usual) the tab that sticks up from the yoke (part the wraps around the front) and to which the latch attaches. A bit of judicious prying with a suitable tool should fix that; no amount of lubrication will, because it's not sticking, it's bent. The jaw is moving into the correct position under the ball (as it must for the yoke to drop over the front); the issue is only with the position of the latch.

After going out to my trailer and looking at the hitch I agree that it appears as though the hitch is bent where Brian indicates.



Here are some photos of the coupler on my trailer.

Properly closed


Hitch partially open


As you can see in the last photo when the hitch is partially open the tabs should be slightly closer to the trailer. On your hitch the tabs are further away from the trailer. This indicates that the hitch is likely bent where Brian shows in his photo.

It looks like someone tried to muscle the hitch open and bent it there. The hitch should actually never require force to either open or close.

Usually the problem with opening or closing the hitch is the ball is being pushed back towards the trailer by the tow vehicle.

After you get it repaired if the hitch doesn't freely open, don't pressure it, since your trailer wheels should already be chocked if your unhitching your trailer, just pull your tow vehicle slightly forward, this will take the pressure off the locking mechanism and it should loosely lift open.