Leveling blocks

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Carmel Clown

If I took the Anderson levelers with me to orientation, do you think ETI would cut one for me?

I cut mine with a coarse blade in a hacksaw. you could do it in seconds with a skilsaw but go slow so the plastic doesn't melt from the heat.

[Jstan]

They should be able to do it, just confirm with your orientation advisor ahead of time - I did and they confirmed it would not be an issue.

[Sailingmiker]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

How do you chock your wheels when they are up on these boards?

Since you are leveling one side of the trailer chock the other side. I use a 4x6 cut to 45° on both ends that fits between the tandem wheels.

[John in Santa Cruz]

you really should chock the wheels on both sides of the trailer, especially if its blocked up on a slope, to keep it from twisting.

[Sailingmiker]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

you really should chock the wheels on both sides of the trailer, especially if its blocked up on a slope, to keep it from twisting.

Good thought but IMHO it would have to be quite a slope for the trailer to twist given the tongue jack and the four corner braces are creating friction between the trailer and the ground.

[Iowa Dave]

It is a pain if they get stuck between the tandems. You can hammer them back out with a rubber hammer and a piece of 2X6 if you have them. When I worked on a forestry crew years ago during the Dutch Elm Disease days, we would buck the limbwood up and throw it into the trucks before we got a chipper. Once in a while we would miss a piece about foot long and several inches in diameter. When we had to reset the truck or leave the site, the driver would accidentally drive over the forgotten piece. In soft ground it would immediately tightly wedge itself between the duals on the rear end and wedge itself tightly. It took a steady hand with a small chainsaw to cut the wood in half the long way to release the pressure and knock it loose, and not cut the tire. The rookie brush hackey looked more closely from then on. Another anecdote by:
Iowa Dave

[Little Richie]

Originally Posted by Cleta

I've ordered a 5.0 and need to get a second set of leveling blocks. I am curious about the curved leveling systems, one is by Anderson. Has anyone had any experience with them? Thanks for sharing your expertise.

I have used the Anderson blocks on a single axel trailer. They were great. The will not work on the twin axel 5.0 with out cutting them down. I have a general rule: if a safety device requires modification then I find another that works. As is.

I use “legos” to level - 1 block for each 1/8 inch pitch indicated on my level A Lego cap is about 1/2 inch. I find them much easier to get in and off with the narrow wheel spread than the Anderson’s. As a measure of success I note that the shower never puddles in a corner.

I have tried several different blocks. Small plastic blocks are just too light for a steep slope. The Lego wedges that attach to the leveling blocks do not work consistently for me. I use two large rubber wedges with handles, and two smaller ones with a rope connecting then. The both seem to work well. I like the smaller ones the best. They work well for me, are easier to store in one of the outside cubbies and they stay together. The rubber ones also work well for me when changing a truck or car tire.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Little Richie

I have used the Anderson blocks on a single axel trailer. They were great. The will not work on the twin axel 5.0 with out cutting them down. I have a general rule: if a safety device requires modification then I find another that works. As is.

I use “legos” to level - 1 block for each 1/8 inch pitch indicated on my level A Lego cap is about 1/2 inch. I find them much easier to get in and off with the narrow wheel spread than the Anderson’s. As a measure of success I note that the shower never puddles in a corner.

I have tried several different blocks. Small plastic blocks are just too light for a steep slope. The Lego wedges that attach to the leveling blocks do not work consistently for me. I use two large rubber wedges with handles, and two smaller ones with a rope connecting then. The both seem to work well. I like the smaller ones the best. They work well for me, are easier to store in one of the outside cubbies and they stay together. The rubber ones also work well for me when changing a truck or car tire.

Interesting I would not consider a leveling device a safety device but rather convenience. The Anderson leveling blocks still need to be chocked to keep the trailer in place. I have a 2014 and although I inherited the blocks with the used trailer they do not seem to be modified(both are the same length). They work fine on my leaf spring model. In fact after many years of campers I can't believe I did not start using them sooner! Unless you need more height to get things level they are quick and simple to use, just back up on them till my wife yells ok...chock the tires...do the rest of unhitching...done.

[Little Richie]

Originally Posted by Ian and Sue

Interesting I would not consider a leveling device a safety device but rather convenience. The Anderson leveling blocks still need to be chocked to keep the trailer in place. I have a 2014 and although I inherited the blocks with the used trailer they do not seem to be modified(both are the same length). They work fine on my leaf spring model. In fact after many years of campers I can't believe I did not start using them sooner! Unless you need more height to get things level they are quick and simple to use, just back up on them till my wife yells ok...chock the tires...do the rest of unhitching...done.

The Anderson leveler also serves as a chock. This is done by placing the smaller block under the leading edge of the larger block. If you are comfortable cutting the first block back then it will work well for you.

The Anderson worked very well for me on a single axel. I really miss its simplicity. I used it on one side and a set on basic chocks on the other.

I now hav two axels and I am not comfortable modifying the leveler because it is also a chock. The approach I use is a change for me, but works very sell for me. I have noted that my rubber chicks lock up tight. If there is any movement I will have to pull the camper one way or the other to pull the chocks.

[Ian and Sue]

I put the small block under one side and/or black rubber chock under both ways on each side of the trailer. If the leveler block did not fit I would not hesitate to suggest to cutting it off a bit to fit. I would NOT suggest shortening the chock as this is what keeps your trailer in place. In fact if the trailer tire is high on the leveler I often use my bigger rubber chock instead of the little one that comes with the leveler. To each their own! BTW I also have a twin axle.

[cpaharley2008]

It should be note for reference that the early 5.0 models with the leaf spring suspension is no longer in production and Escape now uses the torflex axles in all their models. That said, the wheel spacing has changed, thus requiring shortening the Andersen levelers.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

It should be note for reference that the early 5.0 models with the leaf spring suspension is no longer in production and Escape now uses the torflex axles in all their models. That said, the wheel spacing has changed, thus requiring shortening the Andersen levelers.

What are you trying to say, Jim? I have an early 5.0TA with a leaf spring suspension and when Escape switched to torsion axles, they were still using the same mold, same wheel well spacing and same spacing between the wheels. I had to shorten my Andersen levelers just like every tandem axle Escape owner with torsion axles.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

It is a pain if they get stuck between the tandems.

in a pinch, I've just driven over both of them to get out

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

What are you trying to say, Jim? I have an early 5.0TA with a leaf spring suspension and when Escape switched to torsion axles, they were still using the same mold, same wheel well spacing and same spacing between the wheels. I had to shorten my Andersen levelers just like every tandem axle Escape owner with torsion axles.

What I'm trying to say is to explain why some 5.0 owners do not have to shorten their levelers and why others do? The only difference to me was the suspension as Ian stated he did not have to shorten his levelers? But if you have the leaf spring and had to shorten yours and he stated he did not it would seem his was already shortened without his knowledge since his trailer was purchased 2nd hand.?

[Mark James]

Originally Posted by Little Richie

I have used the Anderson blocks on a single axel trailer. They were great. The will not work on the twin axel 5.0 with out cutting them down. I have a general rule: if a safety device requires modification then I find another that works. As is.

I use “legos” to level - 1 block for each 1/8 inch pitch indicated on my level A Lego cap is about 1/2 inch. I find them much easier to get in and off with the narrow wheel spread than the Anderson’s. As a measure of success I note that the shower never puddles in a corner.

I have tried several different blocks. Small plastic blocks are just too light for a steep slope. The Lego wedges that attach to the leveling blocks do not work consistently for me. I use two large rubber wedges with handles, and two smaller ones with a rope connecting then. The both seem to work well. I like the smaller ones the best. They work well for me, are easier to store in one of the outside cubbies and they stay together. The rubber ones also work well for me when changing a truck or car tire.

Just worked my way down the Westcoast in my 5 TA. Currently we are in Sedona Arizona. Have all the levellers Anderson and others. Interesting to note that I have consistently pulled out my yellow camco LEGO levellers over all else. Easy to use.

[gbaglo]

I'm probably more lazy than anyone, but I don't find levelling with the "Lego" blocks exhausting. In fact they are easy to use, and can serve multiple purposes, like under the jack, under the stabilizers and even under the picnic table, if necessary.

What can you do with the Andersen levellers, other than level the trailer? Can't even use them to carve your initials in the rocks.

[Curious Mike]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

What can you do with the Andersen levellers, other than level the trailer? Can't even use them to carve your initials in the rocks.

That's brutal.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I'm probably more lazy than anyone, but I don't find levelling with the "Lego" blocks exhausting. In fact they are easy to use, and can serve multiple purposes, like under the jack, under the stabilizers and even under the picnic table, if necessary.

What can you do with the Andersen levellers, other than level the trailer? Can't even use them to carve your initials in the rocks.

The Andersons can be used laying on their sides with tongue jack or stabilizers. They even have a cutout sized to fit a tongue jack. But no, not the best tool for carving initials in national monuments.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

you really should chock the wheels on both sides of the trailer, especially if its blocked up on a slope, to keep it from twisting.

Definitely.

I remember someone posting a couple years ago about how the Anderson style levelers were dangerous, as after he leveled up (and failed to chock the opposite side) his trailer swung dangerously around when he unhitched and almost ran away downhill.

Not sure if that person ever came to terms that it was his failure to chock both sides that caused the problem, not a problem with his leveling device.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Little Richie

I have used the Anderson blocks on a single axel trailer. They were great. The will not work on the twin axel 5.0 with out cutting them down. I have a general rule: if a safety device requires modification then I find another that works. As is.

Anderson has instructions on their website on how to trim their leveler for shorter-spaced double axle trailers, eg Escapes.

If the manufacturer says it’s fine, it’s probably fine, no?

I cut mine with a miter saw.