Leveling blocks

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Anderson has instructions on their website on how to trim their leveler for shorter-spaced double axle trailers, eg Escapes.

If the manufacturer says it’s fine, it’s probably fine, no?

I cut mine with a miter saw.

Precisely!

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Anderson has instructions on their website on how to trim their leveler for shorter-spaced double axle trailers, eg Escapes.

If the manufacturer says it’s fine, it’s probably fine, no?

I cut mine with a miter saw.

Here are the instructions in case anyone needs them: https://andersenhitches.com/uploads/...dimensions.pdf

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Sailingmiker

Good thought but IMHO it would have to be quite a slope for the trailer to twist given the tongue jack and the four corner braces are creating friction between the trailer and the ground.

I just had the type of "slip" that John describes on a moderate slope asphalt site (#13 at Sunny Flats, AZ if you are familiar with the location). 2 Anderson levelers with their wedges raising the side about 1 1/2", and a Fastway One Step chock on the other side, the tongue jack on a pair of Lego blocks. As the trailer came off the ball, it twisted off the Lego blocks.

Of course there was not enough travel on the power tongue jack to put the tongue back on the ball after the foot hit the ground. I eventually managed to fix it all, and I now add a standard chock behind the open side of the Anderson levelers.

[Mark James]

Originally Posted by Mark James

Just worked my way down the Westcoast in my 5 TA. Currently we are in Sedona Arizona. Have all the levellers Anderson and others. Interesting to note that I have consistently pulled out my yellow camco LEGO levellers over all else. Easy to use.

Okay just arrived at Lost Dutchman State Park in Arizona. Sloped asphalt camping pad. LEGO style kept slipping. Anderson levellers worked perfectly. Go figure! May want to carry both types.

[7th Heaven]

We have them
We are in the Love them camp

Yes they need to be trimmed a little to fit a dual axle.
Yes they can slip on pavement .. this is solved with a rubber mat under the anderson (We have it glued to the bottom)

[marsman]

I found a solution that works, the product is a copy of the curved Anderson Leveller blocks but the ones I got are made by Camco Curved Leveler Blocks - Compact model. They are about an inch shorter than the Anderson types and work really well on the dual axles on my 5.0TA. Easy to use and no modifications required.

This is the link on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Curved-...s%2C200&sr=8-2

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by marsman

I found a solution that works, the product is a copy of the curved Anderson Leveller blocks but the ones I got are made by Camco Curved Leveler Blocks - Compact model. They are about an inch shorter than the Anderson types and work really well on the dual axles on my 5.0TA. Easy to use and no modifications required.

This is the link on Amazon

We have these and too many times they slide. I finally cut our Andersen and it hasn't slid yet. Our Andersen Rapid Jack slid once, but we received a rubber mat with the Rapid Jack and when it went under the Rapid Jack it worked perfectly.

Enjoy,

Perry

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Cleta

I've ordered a 5.0 and need to get a second set of leveling blocks. I am curious about the curved leveling systems, one is by Anderson. Has anyone had any experience with them? Thanks for sharing your expertise.

Hi: Cleta... They work really well when the site isn't very level. I adjusted mine to fit no slide either. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I'm probably more lazy than anyone, but I don't find levelling with the "Lego" blocks exhausting. In fact they are easy to use, and can serve multiple purposes, like under the jack, under the stabilizers and even under the picnic table, if necessary.

What can you do with the Andersen levellers, other than level the trailer? Can't even use them to carve your initials in the rocks.

Hi: gbaglo... Some Escape owners don't use a "Jack", some don't fill a propane tank!!! To each his own. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Cleta]

Thank you all for your input. This forum is an amazing font of information. I do find it delightful that one of the busiest threads lately involves a discussion of bathing habits. Just like a big friendly family.

[McTrailerface]

If I buy a pair of Andersen Levelers, do I also need the Anderson Rapid Jack to get the lift height I would need to change a tire? Or will using one of the levelers do the job? This is for the E19.

[Jstan]

We went with the 3630 kit which includes levelers AND a ramp for flats. I am not confident that the leveler would provide sufficient clearance. I am glad we had it as it looks like we left the factory with one of the #2 square interior screws in our drivers side front trailer tire. If you pick up a screw on the garage floor during orientation like I did, be sure to check all four tires for lodged screws before you depart. I didn't notice it until we were packing up to head home after our first weekend out. Also glad we had the lug wrench, torque wrench, and air compressor!

[Mark James]

Originally Posted by McTrailerface

If I buy a pair of Andersen Levelers, do I also need the Anderson Rapid Jack to get the lift height I would need to change a tire? Or will using one of the levelers do the job? This is for the E19.

You would need the rapid jack. Don’t believe the levellers would give you enough height.

[McBride]

Originally Posted by Mark James

You would need the rapid jack. Don’t believe the levellers would give you enough height.

I tried them with my 19' and they worked for changing the tire.

[vmomara]

I cut up a 3/4 thick stall mat from tractor supply into 12" x 48" pieces for my wheels to level and bal x chocks to stabilize. Smaller pieces were cut for our jack pads. Works great as most campsites are quite level. We also carry the Andersen but have never needed them. I use a 4"x6"x8" piece of cedar for my tongue jack. So far so good.

[rootedoutside]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

Here are the instructions in case anyone needs them: https://andersenhitches.com/uploads/...dimensions.pdf

Super helpful thread! Glad I stumbled upon this, especially when we're picking up our 5.0TA next week! We bought two Andersen Camper Leveler sets (#3604), and it sounds like we need to trim each leveler to fit between the Escape wheels as they are too long.

We do not own any sort of machinery/saw to cut these so we'll need to call around to service shops to help (hoping a Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware can do it).

Since we do not have our trailer yet to measure it all out, I'm wondering what is the smallest amount we can cut off the front/small end of the levelers to properly fit between the wheels? I don't want to cut off too much since that would defeat the purpose of having levelers that can adjust the trailer anywhere from 1/2" to 4".

Thanks!!

[ksitte]

Here's a picture of the amount you need to cut off one of the Andersen levelers. There's no need to trim both, since only one needs to fit between the wheels.

Yes, I did this cut with a powered jigsaw but I don't see any problem doing this with a handsaw, hacksaw or similar non-power tool: it will just take more time. The material is hard but it is, after all, still plastic.

Of course, a shop with the bandsaw could make quick work of removing the necessary amount.

Hope that helps.

[rootedoutside]

Originally Posted by ksitte

Here's a picture of the amount you need to cut off one of the Andersen levelers. There's no need to trim both, since only one needs to fit between the wheels.

Yes, I did this cut with a powered jigsaw but I don't see any problem doing this with a handsaw, hacksaw or similar non-power tool: it will just take more time. The material is hard but it is, after all, still plastic.

Of course, a shop with the bandsaw could make quick work of removing the necessary amount.

Hope that helps.

Perfect, thank you!!! The only tool I have that might work is a Bahco 396-LAP Laplander Folding Saw, 7-1/2 -Inch Blade, 7 TPI. Product description says it can cut plastic (worked great on tree limbs haha), maybe I'll give it a try.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by rootedoutside

We do not own any sort of machinery/saw to cut these so we'll need to call around to service shops to help (hoping a Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware can do it).

If you know anyone with a table saw or a mitre saw (chop saw) it will make a much neater cut than a hand saw. I used a ShopSmith in the table saw mode to cut the levelers and then used the 12-inch sanding disk to round the cut edges. Any neighbor who does woodworking can probably help you.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

If you know anyone with a table saw or a mitre saw (chop saw) it will make a much neater cut than a hand saw. I used a ShopSmith in the table saw mode to cut the levelers and then used the 12-inch sanding disk to round the cut edges. Any neighbor who does woodworking can probably help you.

Buy a tray of 4 coffees, grab sugar and creamer and show up at any local construction site at 9 30 break time, ask for a carpenter, give him the coffees and show him what you need....job done!