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11-13-2022, 01:10 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
For now I'm going to try just the connector. So two simple questions:
1) what should I use to cut the cable? I've never worked with anything that size.
2) I don't think so, but do I need to turn off the 12V first?
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Yes. Since both ground and the charge +12V wires are in the cable, cutting them will short the + and - wires during the cut. The battery disconnect will not disconnect the +12V charge line - you must pull the battery fuse (if you have one) or disconnect the + battery terminal.
There are wire cutters large enough to do the cable, but if you don't want to purchase one I have worked my way through a 7 wire cable with a sharp Staley knife by rolling the knife through the cable. Not a neat a cut as the cable cutter, but it works.
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11-13-2022, 01:19 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
Yes. Since both ground and the charge +12V wires are in the cable, cutting them will short the + and - wires during the cut. The battery disconnect will not disconnect the +12V charge line - you must pull the battery fuse (if you have one) or disconnect the + battery terminal.
There are wire cutters large enough to do the cable, but if you don't want to purchase one I have worked my way through a 7 wire cable with a sharp Staley knife by rolling the knife through the cable. Not a neat a cut as the cable cutter, but it works.
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Thanks. So two six volt batteries- do I just disconnect the incoming + terminal? Do I still disconnect the battery at the switch?
It just got more complicated as I now remember the batteries are on the back bumper currently inaccessible in the garage, which means I have to pull the trailer out to do this.
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11-13-2022, 02:27 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
Thanks. So two six volt batteries- do I just disconnect the incoming + terminal? Do I still disconnect the battery at the switch?
It just got more complicated as I now remember the batteries are on the back bumper currently inaccessible in the garage, which means I have to pull the trailer out to do this.
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If the batteries or battery fuse is hard to get to, it might be easier to find the trailer end of the tow vehicle charge line (in some it is at a thermal circuit breaker) and disconnect it. Use a multimeter on volts to check that there is no + voltage on pin 4 of the 7 pin connector.
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11-13-2022, 02:46 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
If the batteries or battery fuse is hard to get to, it might be easier to find the trailer end of the tow vehicle charge line (in some it is at a thermal circuit breaker) and disconnect it. Use a multimeter on volts to check that there is no + voltage on pin 4 of the 7 pin connector.
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I'll just end up pulling it out- but it might not be today.
One more question- why is cutting the cable any different than unplugging it as far as charge goes? I'm guess it has to do with me being the ground when I cut it?
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01-10-2023, 07:57 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Trailer: 2020 Escape 17B "Voyager"
Posts: 2,661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viajante
When I replaced the connector I found that the new Curt connector I used fit the 7-pin plug much better than the original Bargman. So I would recommend going with a Curt even though some of the color coding doesn’t match. Curt includes a conversion chart.
If you choose to go with a new connector and cable, you just have to feed the cable to the junction box in the trailer and make the connections there, putting the correct wire on the correct post. I’d say take a look at the junction box to see if you can access it comfortably. The advantage of replacing the the whole cable is that Curt has a good seal between the cable and the connector.
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I went with Curt and I think all the color coding agreed. Neighbor Dave did the hardest parts but in the end it works. But I would like to get a whole cable as a backup in case this ends up failing (the Curt plug seems pretty weathertight but is anything?) Does anyone know how long that cable would need to be?
Now on track to do my camping at least once a month resolution... I just need a nice day or two!
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01-11-2023, 12:32 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: n/a, Texas
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 720
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Use a tape measure to measure from the junction box to the plug in on the vehicle then add 18". Measure along the frame where the cable will be zip tied, not shortest distance. The extra length is for trimming the end for connections and to allow the vehicle to make tight turns without pulling the cable taut. If the plug in is next to the hitch you don't need much extra, but if it is offset, like a 4Runner, 24" is good. Longer is better because it can be coiled or wrapped.
The junction box on my trailer is inside at the front. It sounds like newer models have the box outside on the coupler.
The standard lengths in a local store are 6' or more commonly 8'. Longer cables are available online.
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