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Old 10-16-2022, 01:33 PM   #1
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Replacing 7-way connector trailer side

Mine came loose and dragged and wore down two of the blades to unusable so I need to replace it.

As far as I can determine, the receiver on the Ridgeline is made by Curt. (Not 100% sure as it doesn't look exactly like current pictures and I can't find a brand name on it.) This matters because I had a lot of trouble with the 15 with the receiver and connector not fitting together tightly.

Should I be replacing the connector only? If so is there a way to remove the old plug end without cutting? (Not obviously.)

Or should I be replacing the connector and cable? (So wiring at the cable end, and if so, is that accessible easily?)
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Old 10-16-2022, 02:31 PM   #2
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I'd suggest connector ONLY.

It would entail a ton more work to replace the full assembly of wire and connector. There's a set screw (at least on one I replaced) on an old Casita 16 that allows disassembly of the plug/wire from the plug housing. Take photos, replace exactly as your original. This is also quite a bit less expensive that full swap out.

If your plug doesn't come apart, cut it off, leaving a few inches of cable attached to the plug Strip the outer sheathing of the cable here to get to the wires. It's all color coded, and that will be a wire guide and can help your reassembly. Strip some sheathing off the long cable cut end, get your wires free and clear, and reattach to your new plug, using the old one wire color coding as a reference.
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Old 10-16-2022, 02:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER View Post


If your plug doesn't come apart, cut it off, leaving a few inches of cable attached to the plug Strip the outer sheathing of the cable here to get to the wires. It's all color coded, and that be a wire guide and can help your reassembly. Strip some sheathing off the long cable cut end, get your wires free and clear, and reattach to your new plug.
Genius. I wondered about that. I don't think it has a screw but will check.
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Old 10-16-2022, 03:24 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER View Post
It would entail a ton more work to replace the full assembly of wire and connector. There's a set screw (at least on one I replaced) on an old Casita 16 that allows disassembly of the plug/wire from the plug housing. Take photos, replace exactly as your original. This is also quite a bit less expensive that full swap out.

If your plug doesn't come apart, cut it off, leaving a few inches of cable attached to the plug Strip the outer sheathing of the cable here to get to the wires. It's all color coded, and that be a wire guide and can help your reassembly. Strip some sheathing off the long cable cut end, get your wires free and clear, and reattach to your new plug.
I agree on leaving enough wire on the old plug to use it to identify what terminal does what. There are at least two color codes used for trailer whips.
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Old 10-16-2022, 04:19 PM   #5
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When I replaced the connector I found that the new Curt connector I used fit the 7-pin plug much better than the original Bargman. So I would recommend going with a Curt even though some of the color coding doesn’t match. Curt includes a conversion chart.

If you choose to go with a new connector and cable, you just have to feed the cable to the junction box in the trailer and make the connections there, putting the correct wire on the correct post. I’d say take a look at the junction box to see if you can access it comfortably. The advantage of replacing the the whole cable is that Curt has a good seal between the cable and the connector.
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Old 10-16-2022, 05:45 PM   #6
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So I would recommend going with a Curt even though some of the color coding doesn’t match. Curt includes a conversion chart.
Not to hijack the thread but I'm a little surprised that's there's different color coding between manufacturers. Never had to deal with that.

Maybe that's the answer to a recent problem that I discovered. I bought some strip led stop/turn/running lights for my rear box that evidently are a knock off of a Curt design. But, no joy, haven't discovered any way to wire them successfully. Seems so simple, with yellow, green, brown and ground how could it not work?

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Old 10-16-2022, 06:26 PM   #7
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That's likely a first for me!

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Originally Posted by Bobbie54 View Post
Genius. I wondered about that. I don't think it has a screw but will check.
Usually, it's some other, less laudatory comment. Usually not a compliment.

Thank you, and I'll not quibble over your judgement.
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Old 10-16-2022, 07:53 PM   #8
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Good to hear the Curt will fit better.
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Old 10-16-2022, 08:04 PM   #9
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Just my 2 cents... I had the same issue and decided to replace the plug and cable. They were an integrated and sealed unit, and it was not hard to replace the cable at the junction box, other than you have to lie on your back under the tongue.

Just confirm your color coding, as mentioned above, and replace wire for wire. I found this much easier than making waterproof multiple connections in the cable. I would save that for an in-field repair if needed.

Either is fine if you do it properly. Enjoy the project!

Doug
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Old 10-16-2022, 08:11 PM   #10
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So Bobbie are you going to do this repair or is Neighbour Dave?
Like I said before I need a Neighbour Dave please can you document the process just in case someone else needs to do this repair.
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Old 10-16-2022, 08:57 PM   #11
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Standard 7 blade color coding for RV’s and cargo trailers is different. My RV’s confirm to that standard and my utility, cargo, and dump trailers conform to a different standard.
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Old 10-16-2022, 10:00 PM   #12
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One is SAE standard and one is something else. The differences pertain to the tail lights and turn signals, which is why your replacement needs the conversion chart. Refer to Curt instructions.
SAE and Traditional. Escape trailers are wired with the traditional configuration.
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:28 AM   #13
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SAE and Traditional. Escape trailers are wired with the traditional configuration.
I thought that might explain why my "cargo box" lights didn't work with the Escape wiring but then they don't work properly with the 4 pin connector on my F150 either. Good thing that the reflectors don't need any wiring.

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Old 10-17-2022, 02:05 PM   #14
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SAE and Traditional. Escape trailers are wired with the traditional configuration.
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I thought that might explain why my "cargo box" lights didn't work with the Escape wiring but then they don't work properly with the 4 pin connector on my F150 either. Good thing that the reflectors don't need any wiring.
This sounds unrelated to your issue and is tangential to the original topic but it is worth noting that Escape transitions from red on the 7-pin to yellow in the junction box for left turn/stop. They carry the brown (right turn/stop) and green (tail/running) all the way back to the lights. So if anyone is ever splicing in a 4-pin harness for add'l lights on a cargo rack or rear storage box your green will go to brown and brown to green. Our 19 came with an optional 4-pin at the rear wired wrong from the factory because someone just quickly matched the colors and didn't check the functions. I only figured this out when plugging in our StowAway box with integral lights.
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Old 10-17-2022, 05:48 PM   #15
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This sounds unrelated to your issue and is tangential to the original topic but it is worth noting that Escape transitions from red on the 7-pin to yellow in the junction box for left turn/stop. They carry the brown (right turn/stop) and green (tail/running) all the way back to the lights. So if anyone is ever splicing in a 4-pin harness for add'l lights on a cargo rack or rear storage box your green will go to brown and brown to green. Our 19 came with an optional 4-pin at the rear wired wrong from the factory because someone just quickly matched the colors and didn't check the functions. I only figured this out when plugging in our StowAway box with integral lights.
My trailer, also from 2010 had the same haphazard junction box wiring as you describe. Some wires carried all the way through for rear lights, some butt connections, at least one wire nut.

From pictures posted on the forum it looks like more recent trailers have “real” junction boxes with posts for proper connections. See link below for example.

Maybe someone can advise as to when the upgraded junction boxes came into use.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...375601101.html
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Old 10-17-2022, 06:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Viajante View Post
My trailer, also from 2010 had the same haphazard junction box wiring as you describe. Some wires carried all the way through for rear lights, some butt connections, at least one wire nut.

From pictures posted on the forum it looks like more recent trailers have “real” junction boxes with posts for proper connections. See link below for example.

Maybe someone can advise as to when the upgraded junction boxes came into use.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...375601101.html
I upgraded that rats nest of wiring during my lithium upgrade. Did a new 7 pin umbilical at the same time. Much more confident in the connections and it will make for easier troubleshooting if needed in the future. Not sure when Escape started using the newer style but I feel like it was around the time of the newer molds circa 2016.
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Old 10-17-2022, 08:50 PM   #17
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My love affair with my little Scamp 13 FB faded instantly when I opened the closet door and saw that the 7 pin connector came in a floor level, totally exposed, not in a box and all the connections just kind of stuck up in the air unprotected. Great location for that, just waiting for something to get set on top of them.

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Old 10-26-2022, 10:13 AM   #18
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Just my 2 cents... I had the same issue and decided to replace the plug and cable. They were an integrated and sealed unit, and it was not hard to replace the cable at the junction box, other than you have to lie on your back under the tongue.
Not going to happen unless it is just to feed the cable through- that might be do-able..but if I ever get it I'll probably do just the plug. Then if I ever have any trouble with shorting I might do the whole cable.
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Old 10-26-2022, 02:00 PM   #19
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I attempted to replace a plug. Its virtually impossible to get all of the wires in the right places at the same time and tighten them up. I quickly gave up on the idea and bought a new cable with plug molded onto it. Connections in the junction box will be easy compared to the inside of the plug.

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Old 11-13-2022, 12:55 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER View Post
If your plug doesn't come apart, cut it off, leaving a few inches of cable attached to the plug Strip the outer sheathing of the cable here to get to the wires. It's all color coded, and that will be a wire guide and can help your reassembly. Strip some sheathing off the long cable cut end, get your wires free and clear, and reattach to your new plug, using the old one wire color coding as a reference.
For now I'm going to try just the connector. So two simple questions:

1) what should I use to cut the cable? I've never worked with anything that size.

2) I don't think so, but do I need to turn off the 12V first?
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