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Old 02-15-2022, 01:38 AM   #1
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Rookie mistake unhitching on a downward slope

Got home the weekend with my new Escape 19 and after waiting for a couple of days finally felt confident enough to back the trailer into my driveway. Problem is my driveway has a moderate downhill slope but i conjectured that despite the front back leveling imbalance I could unhitch.....[well because i needed my truck unhitched Major difficulties in trying to get the coupler off the ball hitch. Eventually listened to a neighbor that suggested I undo the WDH and pull forward. Mistake # 3 for the evening!! i did free up the TV from the 19 but now it is not clear to me how I will hitch up the trailer so I never park in my driveway again. Is this where stabilizer jacks come to the rescue?? Does this rank right up there with all time rookie mistakes!!

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Old 02-15-2022, 03:33 AM   #2
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If I was to offer advice, I would need pictures.

I don't see why you wouldn't park in your driveway, even if it has a slope. My driveway has a moderate slope all the way to the road. I made up boards that I park on in my driveway. On my drivers side, back to front, 1 board for the back and 2 boards for the front, on the passenger side I have 1 board for the front. The trailer sits level in this configuration. The front boards have a wedge I cut from a 4x4 so the trailer doesn't roll into the street. I also made up a tall box for my front jack because when I'm level, my hitch is way in the air. Sorry, I don't have pictures, the trailer is away in storage.
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Old 02-15-2022, 04:10 AM   #3
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chock both sides of the trailer front and rear before unhitching, and it won't go very far, even if its on a very uneven slow.
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:51 AM   #4
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Also I'd remove any w/d bars before backing into your storage spot and not install them before getting the trailer out and on a fairly level spot. Making it a "2 step" process.
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:54 AM   #5
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Is it possible to remove the wdh apparatus and use a regular ball mount with the desired amount of rise or drop to hitch up the trailer and move it to level ground?

Unless recent models have changed, ETI recommends that you do not use the stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer.
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Old 02-15-2022, 09:01 AM   #6
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Am I simplyfing this? Chock your wheels and lift up the tongue jack all the way off the ground. Place stackable blocks under the jack as high as possible, lift the trailer again and lower your jack onto your hitch. Like others stated, put your WDH on when on level ground.
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Old 02-15-2022, 10:13 AM   #7
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This is a situation where using BAL X-Chocks in addition to solid rubber ones as well would give added safety. When you roll forward 6-8 inches first onto the rubber ones(I do this in Neutral) then it makes it easier to raise the yoke. If not too steep I might lift the yoke first. Then before raising tongue cinch down the X-Chocks and you should be solid.
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Old 02-15-2022, 10:31 AM   #8
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Since there's no way anyone can lift a tongue that has dropped down off the ball, even if it is nested in the chains, or otherwise - regardless of the circumstances, chocking the tires is always the smart move. The next smartest move would be to pull out that hydraulic jack you should have kept in your tongue box. Many times that saved my bacon.
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Old 02-15-2022, 11:43 AM   #9
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?

A pic of how the trailer is now would be helpful...........
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Old 02-15-2022, 12:15 PM   #10
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I agree, without photos it's all just conjecture what the situation is or what the best way to deal with it is.

One of the forum's long time members who lives in N. Van. , no not Glenn, backs uphill on a steep driveway and parks his trailer facing downhill. Scares the crap out of me just looking at it.

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Old 02-15-2022, 12:53 PM   #11
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When unhitching or hooking up , assuming you’re “tight against the chocks and things don’t line up quickly and easily. Step back and ask yourself “what the hell is going on here” and think about it for a couple minutes. Many times alternative procedures will come to you and you can proceed. But don’t pull the chocks and don’t leave your tow vehicle in gear or in neutral. Sometimes the tow vehicle emergency brake, jacks and Timbers, a heavy screwdriver and a lighter rubber hammer help out. When on any kind of a slope I use the rubber hammer or a piece of firewood to thump those chocks in tight. There’s physics at work here, respect it.

A young guy worked with us on the tree removal crew. If you’ve ever worked with big wood you know you get “stuck” all the time. Cutting, loading, dumping you name it. Whenever he sensed something was pinched or bound up he would yell “ Stop, it’s in a bayou.” That became our mantra and the key to minimal lost time accidents.
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Old 02-15-2022, 01:30 PM   #12
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I always remove the WDH bars ( and install them ) on the level and then back up the slightly sloped drive.
Not sure I understand what was done by the OP. Was the whole WDH removed from the receiver?
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:29 PM   #13
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I'm guessing maybe you pulled the pin that holds the hitch head to the 2" receiver? If so, no big deal. Now the ball should be easy to extricate from the coupler. If your trailer jack won't lift the tongue high enough to get the coupler over the ball next time, my preference would be to use a farm jack to lift it higher; farm jacks are easy to use and handy as all-get-out to have around.
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Old 02-15-2022, 07:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike G View Post
I'm guessing maybe you pulled the pin that holds the hitch head to the 2" receiver? If so, no big deal. Now the ball should be easy to extricate from the coupler. If your trailer jack won't lift the tongue high enough to get the coupler over the ball next time, my preference would be to use a farm jack to lift it higher; farm jacks are easy to use and handy as all-get-out to have around.
I think Mike has your dilemma figured out, your jack must be maxed out and you can’t jack your trailer up any higher. I always carry a 12 inch chunk of 6x6 to put under my jack that way you don’t have to crank the jack down so much. I would make sure my trailer was chocked really well then get chunk of 4x4 or 6x6 then block your young up and raise the jack. Then put the 4x4 or 6x6 block under your jack this way you will gain more lift if that’s your problem.
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Old 02-16-2022, 02:53 AM   #15
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I carry "Lego blocks" and typically put a 6" stack of them under the jack foot plate. Lynx Levelers are my preferred type of Lego blocks
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Old 02-16-2022, 03:09 PM   #16
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Trailer owners really should get more jacked up about unhooking!
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Old 02-18-2022, 12:08 AM   #17
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i just removed the pin
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Old 02-18-2022, 12:16 AM   #18
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I have two 4x6 blocks underneath my jack rightnow. Could some of this issue simply be that the coupler needs to be greased the first few times?
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Old 02-18-2022, 08:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dblagsvedt View Post
I have two 4x6 blocks underneath my jack rightnow. Could some of this issue simply be that the coupler needs to be greased the first few times?
Oh. Well, if that's the sum of the problem, do like several others have done and get that coupler replaced with a Bulldog coupler. No more sticking, problem solved.
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Old 02-18-2022, 04:38 PM   #20
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the Escape coupler will not easily release if your tow rig is pushing backwards at it. if I'm parked backed up a slope, I chock the trailer tires, then roll the truck forward a inch or less, then the hitch comes undone easily.
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